Comfort Food Done Right at Gilda

On Soo Hong Lane, one of George Town's narrowest heritage lanes, stands Gilda, a modern neo-bistro that has captured the hearts of diners with its honest cooking and warm hospitality. However, after spending an evening there, I realised that the true charm of Gilda lies beyond its beautifully restored setting and thoughtfully crafted menu—it lies in the couple behind it all.

I had the pleasure of meeting Chef Ahmad Suffian Salim after dinner. He spoke with humility and sincerity, a grounded and down-to-earth man whose passion for the culinary arts was evident in his words as well as the food he creates. Taking time out after the kitchen had closed to chat with my friend and I, he shared glimpses of his journey, offering a deeper insight into the person behind Gilda.

In today's culinary world, where restaurants often compete to be louder, grander or more theatrical than the next, Chef Ahmad has chosen a different path. His cooking does not chase trends or rely on unnecessary theatrics. Instead, it speaks through quality ingredients, thoughtful textures and a careful balance of flavours. As Gilda states on its website, "We’re not here for trends. We’re here for flavour, warmth, and the joy of eating together".

Together with his wife, Aim, who manages the restaurant, Chef Ahmad has created something refreshingly personal. The open kitchen allows diners to observe him and his team at work, creating a genuine connection between those preparing the food and those enjoying it. Like his cooking, the space is open, honest and unpretentious.

Their decision to make Penang their home adds another layer to the story. Having already established a respected career in Kuala Lumpur, Chef Ahmad and Aim could have continued their journey there. Instead, they chose George Town as the place to build their own restaurant.

From the outside, Gilda gives little away. Its weathered corrugated iron-clad exterior retains the raw character of an old warehouse, blending naturally into the historic surroundings of Soo Hong Lane. But step inside, and the transformation is striking. The dark, industrial exterior gives way to a bright and airy space, where clean lines, a high ceiling and thoughtful design allow natural daylight to bathe its contemporary interior.

Adding to the character of the space is an intriguing artwork by Mumbai-born contemporary artist Jitish Kallat. His "Lunar Rotis" uses Indian flatbreads to symbolise the phases of the moon as it journeys through its orbit around the Earth. Also captivating is an art installation of two suspended trees by Hong Kong-based artist Trevor Yeung, commissioned specially for the space.

Of course, no restaurant can rely on ambience alone. Every dish that arrived at our table reflected the same sense of care and attention to detail. Nothing felt excessive or overcomplicated. Instead, each plate demonstrated a clear understanding of balance, texture and flavour. The ingredients were allowed to shine, supported rather than overshadowed by technique. Every element on the plate seemed to have a purpose. What impressed me most was that it was comfort food done right.

That evening, we started with the grilled tiger prawns (RM30+)—three pieces served with XO béarnaise, Asian slaw, peanuts and a tangy tamarind dressing. Grilled over fire, the prawns carried a smoky aroma, though the texture was slightly firmer than expected. What stood out for me was the XO béarnaise sauce and the harmonious combination of flavours.

On my return trip, I tried the snapper ceviche (RM29+), served with butternut purée, nuoc cham, tiger’s milk, apple, crispy shallots, corn kernels and Thai basil, accompanied by warm tempeh chips. The snapper was fresh and delicate, with the citrusy notes of the tiger’s milk and nuoc cham bringing brightness to the dish. I enjoyed the interplay of textures, especially the crunch from the apple, crispy shallots and tempeh chips, which added another layer to the ceviche. It was a refreshing appetiser that whetted the appetite.

The grilled chicken (quarter – RM38+, half – RM70+) was a highlight of the meal for me. Served with herbed butter stuffing, kale, orzo (barley-shaped pasta), cranberries and pine nuts, it was a well executed dish. The waiter explained that the chicken had been brined before grilling, which helped keep the meat tender and succulent. I loved it!

The grilled seabass (RM45+) came with beurre monté, peas, butter beans and makrut oil, accompanied by a petite kale salad. The fish was beautifully complemented by the richness of the sauce and the freshness of the greens. The flavours came together wonderfully, making it another enjoyable dish of the evening.

The prawn linguine (RM40+) was another lovely dish on the menu. Cooked al dente and tossed with anchovy butter, cherry tomatoes, pangrattato and prawn-chilli oil gremolata, it was full of flavour without feeling heavy. I especially liked that the prawns were deshelled and cut into bite-sized pieces, making the dish easy and enjoyable to eat. It was uncomplicated in the best possible way and comforting.

On a return visit, I also tried the charred cabbage (RM27++), served atop a bed of cashew cream and topped with caper-sultana butter and walnuts. The cabbage was first steamed, dried, then charred, resulting in a dish that was surprisingly delicate. Mild in flavour, the soft and tender cabbage carried a natural sweetness that was enhanced by the other flavours and textures in the dish.

To conclude the meal, we tried two desserts—the olive oil and honey pear cake with vanilla ice cream (RM21+), and the flourless chocolate torte with mixed berry compote (RM23+). Both desserts offered a lovely ending to the evening, with the pear cake bringing a gentle sweetness and the chocolate torte providing a richer, more indulgent finish.

Soo Hong Lane tells a story of its own. Named after Khoo Soo Hong, a founding member of the Khoo Kongsi Board of Trustees in 1851, the narrow lane was once a quiet passage tucked behind the bustle of Armenian Street. Today, it has evolved into a creative pockets where heritage buildings have found new purpose. Artists, designers, galleries and now passionate restaurateurs are writing the next chapter in the lane's history, while preserving the character that makes it uniquely George Town.

Penang has never lacked wonderful places to eat. In Chef Ahmad and Aim, Penang has gained more than talented restaurateurs; it has welcomed two individuals who believe that great dining begins not with elaborate presentation or fashionable trends, but with honest cooking, heartfelt hospitality and a genuine desire to make every guest feel at home. For me, that is the true story of Gilda. And perhaps, its finest ingredient of all.

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
10 July 2026

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Gilda
81 Soo Hong Lane, 10200 George Town, Penang
Hours: 11.00 am – 4.30 pm; 5.30 pm – 10 pm Thursday – Monday
Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday

PS: The name "Gilda" intrigued me. I discovered it is a feminine name of Germanic origin, often associated with "gold" or "golden". Was the restaurant named with that meaning in mind, or is there another story behind it?