Comfort Food Done Right At Gilda
On Soo Hong Lane, one of George Town's narrowest heritage lanes, stands Gilda, a modern neo-bistro that has captured the hearts of diners with its honest cooking and warm hospitality. After spending an evening there, I realised that the true charm of Gilda goes beyond its striking setting and thoughtfully crafted menu. It is found in the people behind it.
I had the pleasure of meeting Chef Ahmad Suffian Salim after dinner. He spoke with humility and sincerity, a grounded, down-to-earth man whose passion for the culinary arts was evident in his words as well as the food he creates. After the kitchen closed that evening, he took time to chat with my friend and I, sharing glimpses of a journey that began almost by accident and eventually led him back to Malaysia.
In today's culinary world, where restaurants often compete to be louder, grander or more theatrical than the next, Chef Ahmad has chosen a different path. His cooking does not chase trends or rely on unnecessary theatrics. Instead, it speaks through quality ingredients, thoughtful textures and a careful balance of flavours. As Gilda states on its website, "We’re not here for trends. We’re here for flavour, warmth, and the joy of eating together".
With his wife, Aim, who oversees the brand, guest experience and day-to-day operations, Chef Ahmad has created something refreshingly personal. The open kitchen allows diners to observe him and his team at work. Like his cooking, the space feels honest, unpretentious and welcoming.
Comfort Food
Every dish that arrived at our table reflected the same sense of care and attention to detail. Nothing felt excessive or overcomplicated. Instead, each plate demonstrated a clear understanding of balance, texture and flavour. The ingredients were allowed to shine, supported rather than overshadowed by technique. Nothing felt unnecessary. What impressed me most was that it was comfort food done right.
That evening, my friend and I started our dinner with the grilled tiger prawns (RM30+), three pieces served with XO béarnaise, Asian slaw, peanuts and a tangy tamarind dressing. Grilled over fire, the prawns carried a smoky aroma, though the texture was slightly firmer than expected. I particularly enjoyed the XO béarnaise and the harmonious combination of flavours.
On my return trip, I tried the snapper ceviche (RM29+), served with butternut purée, nuoc cham, tiger’s milk, apple, crispy shallots, corn kernels and Thai basil, accompanied by warm tempeh chips. The snapper was fresh and delicate, with the citrusy notes of the tiger’s milk and nuoc cham bringing brightness to the dish. The interplay of textures, especially the crunch from the apple, crispy shallots and tempeh chips, made it a refreshing appetiser that certainly whetted the appetite.
The grilled chicken (quarter – RM38+, half – RM70+) was a highlight of the meal for me. Served with herbed butter stuffing, kale, orzo (barley-shaped pasta), cranberries and pine nuts, it was a well executed dish. The waiter explained that the chicken had been brined before grilling, which helped keep the meat tender and succulent. I loved it!
The grilled seabass (RM45+) came with beurre monté, peas, butter beans and makrut oil, accompanied by a petite kale salad. The fish paired well with the richness of the sauce and the freshness of the greens, making it another good dish of the evening.
The prawn linguine (RM40+) was a simple, hearty dish. Cooked al dente and tossed with anchovy butter, cherry tomatoes, pangrattato and prawn-chilli oil gremolata, it was full of flavour. I especially appreciated that the prawns were deshelled and cut into bite-sized pieces, making the dish easy and enjoyable to eat.
On a return visit, I also tried the charred cabbage (RM27++), served atop a bed of cashew cream and topped with caper-sultana butter and walnuts. The cabbage was first steamed, patted dry, then charred, resulting in something surprisingly delicate. Mild in flavour, the soft and tender cabbage carried a natural sweetness that was enhanced by the other flavours and textures on the plate.
To conclude the meal, we tried two desserts—the olive oil and honey pear cake with vanilla ice cream (RM21+), and the flourless chocolate torte with mixed berry compote (RM23+). Both desserts offered a satisfying ending to the evening, with the pear cake bringing a gentle sweetness and the chocolate torte providing a richer, more indulgent finish.
How It All Began
In 2012, after moving to Melbourne with his wife Aim for her postgraduate studies, Ahmad found himself looking for work outside aviation, his previous career. Living in Collingwood, with Proud Mary café literally behind their home, he took his first step into hospitality as a kitchen hand despite having no experience in the industry. One winter night, a chef he worked with, Chef Happy, packed him a pumpkin risotto to take home. Ahmad and Aim sat down to eat the warm, hearty dish, and something clicked. He realised that food did not have to be complicated to leave an impression, and decided he wanted to learn how to cook. From there, he worked his way through the city's kitchens, learning on the job and developing an approach shaped by Melbourne's produce-driven food culture and neighbourhood dining scene.
In late 2019, Chef Ahmad and Aim embarked on what was meant to be a gap year, travelling through Asia and doing pop-ups along the way. Their work on "Penang Local", their cookbook documenting Penang food, brought them to Penang just before the COVID-19 pandemic changed everything. Stranded in Penang, unable to return to Melbourne or continue their travels, they found themselves starting from scratch in Malaysia.
“So in that sense, we really were starting from zero", Ahmad said.
What began unexpectedly became a new chapter. After years of pop-ups, chef residencies and hospitality projects in Penang and Kuala Lumpur, Chef Ahmad and Aim eventually found themselves building Gilda, bringing together their experiences in food, hospitality and Melbourne’s dining culture.
People Behind Gilda
Five people from very different backgrounds are behind Gilda, including Chef Ahmad and Aim. The space came about through Dickson, their landlord, who introduced the site to KY and Alfred when they were looking for a new home for Blank Canvas, an independent contemporary arts platform. KY and Alfred are both deeply involved in contemporary art and are collectors themselves.
What connected the five was a shared love of food, travel and the idea of creating somewhere they themselves would genuinely want to spend time in. That shared vision is evident the moment you walk into Gilda.
The Space, Art and Soo Hong Lane
From the outside, Gilda gives little away. Its weathered corrugated iron-clad exterior retains the raw character of an old warehouse, blending naturally into the historic surroundings of Soo Hong Lane. But step inside, and the transformation is striking. The dark, industrial exterior gives way to a bright and airy space, where clean lines, a high ceiling and thoughtful design allow natural daylight to bathe its contemporary interior.
Adding to the character of the space is an intriguing artwork by Mumbai-born contemporary artist Jitish Kallat. His "Lunar Rotis" uses Indian flatbreads to symbolise the phases of the moon as it journeys through its orbit around the Earth.
Also captivating is an art installation of two suspended trees by Hong Kong-based artist Trevor Yeung, commissioned specially for the space.
Soo Hong Lane tells a story of its own. Named after Khoo Soo Hong, a founding member of the Khoo Kongsi Board of Trustees in 1851, the narrow lane was once a quiet passage tucked behind the bustle of Armenian Street. Today, it has evolved into a creative pocket where heritage buildings have found new purpose. Artists, designers, galleries and passionate restaurateurs are writing the next chapter in the lane's history, while preserving the character that makes it uniquely George Town.
Penang has never lacked wonderful places to eat. In Chef Ahmad and Aim, Penang has gained more than talented restaurateurs; it has welcomed two individuals who believe that great dining begins with honest cooking, heartfelt hospitality and a genuine desire to make every guest feel at home. For me, that is the true story of Gilda. And perhaps, its finest ingredient of all.
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
10 July 2026
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Gilda
81 Soo Hong Lane, 10200 George Town, Penang
Hours: 11.00 am – 4.30 pm; 5.30 pm – 10 pm Thursday – Monday
Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday
The Name Gilda
The name “Gilda” had intrigued me, so I asked Chef Ahmad about it. The name came from Aim, who spent weeks searching for something short, memorable and easy to pronounce. They eventually settled on Gilda, drawn to its association with gold and gilding, as well as its connection to prosperity, warmth and good fortune. For Chef Ahmad, there is also a culinary connection: golden is often the point you look for when something is fried, roasted or caramelised.