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All about Penang & more

Penang today is very much an amalgam of the old and the new – a bustling port, a heritage city and an industrial base. Perhaps it has more to offer per square mile than any other place in the world. For sheer variety of locales, cultures and foods, Penang is hard to beat. Here are stories about Penang and more.

Mum’s Chio Hua – the golden Nyonya jelly our family treasures

Nyonya jelly © Adrian Cheah

Looking back on my childhood, the memories that stand out most vividly are often tied to our kitchen – a space where I first discovered my love for cooking. My mother shared so much with me in that lively corner of our home and those lessons remain close to my heart. Whether it was preparing fiery sambal babi or crafting the crunchy, glistening Nyonya jelly known as chio hua (cheok hwa), her guidance filled my childhood with joy and the ho-chiak-ness of good food.

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Nyonya Kuih Bangkit with a difference. Why not?

kuih bangkit © Adrian Cheah

Nyonya Kuih Bangkit is a classic Chinese New Year cookie, cherished alongside favourites like Kuih Kapit, peanut cookies and pineapple tarts. Loved by Penangites, this petite, animal-shaped treat captivates with its sweet pandan fragrance that greets you at the first bite. Its slightly crisp outer layer encases a powdery softness that melts in the mouth.

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Kek Lok Si Temple, the monastery on Crane Hill

Kek Lok Si © Adrian Cheah

In Chinese iconography, the Crane holds special significance. It is an auspicious symbol denoting longevity, and wisdom that comes with age. The Crane is said to manifest a peculiar interest in human affairs and is also often associated with good luck, high-mindedness, purity and freedom.

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Reinventing kuih kapit (love letters)

kuih kapit © Adrian Cheah

"Creativity is intelligence having fun." – Albert Einstein.

The "love letter", more commonly known as kuih kapit (a paper-thin crispy, fan-shaped biscuit), is an essential feature during Chinese New Year. However, when a classic item like kuih kapit becomes deeply entrenched in tradition, introducing a daring innovation to reinvent it can evoke mixed reactions – either embraced with enthusiasm for its novelty or met with scepticism and disapproval.

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Kak Ayu’s Quallys Syok Segarnya – a culinary love letter to all

Quallys Syok Segarnya © Adrian Cheah

Quallys Syok Segarnya is more than just a restaurant – it is a love letter to Malaysia’s culinary heritage. It embraces the simplicity of fresh ingredients and deep-rooted cooking tradition while adapting to the evolving tastes of today’s diners. Here, the essence of "masakan kampung" (traditional Malay village cooking) shines through, bringing rich, "sedaplicious" flavours to every dish. Malay cuisine, with its harmonious blend of spices, herbs and regional influences, revolves around rice – served with curries, sambal, seafood and meats. It is often enjoyed by hand for an authentic, finger-licking-good experience. At the heart of Quallys is Yusniza Ayu Yusoff, fondly known as Kak Ayu, whose warm, heartfelt approach captures the true spirit of cooking with love.

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The elegant Nyonya kebaya – wearable art that knows no seasons

kebaya © Adrian Cheah

"When in Rome, do as the Romans do." This oft-quoted adage champions the virtues of adaptation. Whether or not the early Chinese immigrants to Malay Archipelago were familiar with this nugget of wisdom, their actions mirrored its essence. These enterprising settlers, who journeyed to these lands in search of opportunity, not only carved out new lives but also intertwined their heritage with local traditions. Some married Malays and embraced elements of their customs while steadfastly preserving their Chinese beliefs and philosophies. From this union arose the Chinese Peranakan community – also known as Babas and Nyonyas – a vibrant cultural fusion renowned for its distinctive charm and ingenuity.

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Ti Kuih to sweeten the words of the Gods

Ti Kuih © Adrian Cheah

Ti Kuih, the sweet sticky rice cake, is known in Mandarin as nian gao, which literally translates to "year cake". Its name also carries an auspicious homophone, symbolising "rising abundance" or "prosperity for the coming year".

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The smoky, savoury and succulent goodness of traditional bak kwa

bak kwa © Adrian Cheah

Bak kwa, Hokkien for dried pork jerky, is one of the most beloved snacks during Chinese New Year and it is almost a crime not to have this truly "ho chiak" snack in your home all through the festive season. As the season approaches, roadside stalls across Penang pop up like mushrooms after a rainy day, offering not just bak kwa but also hampers, festive cookies and kam (mandarin oranges).

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The art of making the perfect Kuih Kapit (love letters)

Kuih Kapit © Adrian Cheah

Some people claim that oysters are an aphrodisiac. Then there are others who say that the tomato is the food of love (from its name pomme d'amour – French for "love apple").

In Malaysia, there exists a delicacy that, despite its name, is neither an aphrodisiac nor a love potion. Yet those who have tasted it have been known to wax lyrical over the exquisite flavour. The "love letter", more commonly known as Kuih Kapit (a paper-thin crispy biscuit), is an essential feature of Chinese and Malay festivals.

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A delizioso festive 3-course set menu at Kucina, Penang Marriott Hotel

Kucina Penang © Adrian Cheah

Recently, I dined at several popular restaurants in Penang, only to leave rather disappointed. Despite their Instagram-worthy interiors and bustling dining halls, the food often fell short – mediocre offerings served at steep prices. Even with my trusty mirrorless Nikon in hand, I found no inspiration to photograph the experiences; they simply were not worth capturing.

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Jungles that hide Penang’s forgotten colonial dams

 forgotten colonial dams © Adrian Cheah

The dams of Cherok To’ Kun and Bukit Seraya continue to stand amid encroaching forests in secret testimony to the dedication of their builders and operators from a bygone era.

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George Town World Heritage Site: The story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang

By Mark Thompson and Karl Steinberg with photographs by Adrian Cheah

George Town World Heritage Site: The story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang

Walk between two of George Town’s most famous landmarks with this illustrated guide. Discover the story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang and explore some of the community’s fascinating characters, customs, architecture and events.

For as long as it has existed, George Town in Penang has attracted travellers and settlers from across the globe and is a true confluence of cultures. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site continues to enchant visitors with its traditional charm and its well-preserved historical townscape.

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