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All about Penang & more

Penang today is very much an amalgam of the old and the new – a bustling port, a heritage city and an industrial base. Perhaps it has more to offer per square mile than any other place in the world. For sheer variety of locales, cultures and foods, Penang is hard to beat. Here are stories about Penang and more.

The Risen Christ Catholic Church – a reminder of the Easter promise of hope and life anew

Risen Christ Catholic Church © Adrian Cheah

In the quiet hours of reflection, I sometimes find myself scrolling through old photos – their edges faded, smiles softened by time and among them, snapshots of life at the Risen Christ Catholic Church. If there is a Roman Catholic church in Penang that embodies the triumph of faith and the promise of new life, it is the Risen Christ Catholic Church (RCCC) in Ayer Itam. Founded in 1968, the very year I was born, this church was a steadfast presence in my life until my teenage years. Back then, my home was just a stone’s throw away, a mere 500 metres from its doors.

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Church of the Assumption, among Penang's historical landmarks

Church of the Assumption © Adrian Cheah

George Town, the vibrant heart of Penang, has perhaps one of the most diverse religious communities in Malaysia. Here, almost every religion has its own distinct religious architectural abode to serve believers.

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Viet Garden offers an extensive Vietnamese menu

Viet Garden © Adrian Cheah

Penang is lucky to have a string of good Vietnamese restaurants offering scrumptious signature dishes. Vietnamese cooking draws on the influences of Chinese, Thai, Indian and French cuisines to create irresistible combinations of delicate flavours, fresh ingredients and fabulous textures. Viet Garden, located at Kimberley Street, is one such destination in Penang to enjoy authentic Vietnamese delights.

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Spongy Kuih Bahulu recipe

Kuih Bahulu © Adrian Cheah

Kuih Bahulu (also known as Kuih Baulu or Kuih Bolu) is a perennial favourite among Malaysians of all ages. In Hokkien, it is called Kay Nui Koh. It is a mini light and fluffy sponge cake made from eggs, flour and sugar. It has a slightly crusty outer layer with a soft and fluffy inside, quite similar in taste and texture to a French Madeleine. However, when compared to many western cakes, Kuih Bahulu is much lighter in texture and has a subtle sweetness.

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Acheen Street Mosque, priceless legacy of the Penang Muslim community

Acheen Street Mosque © Adrian Cheah

The history of the Acheen Street mosque (also known as the Malay mosque), began in 1792, which marked the arrival of its founder Tengku Syed Hussain Al-Aidid who had come from Acheh to settle in Penang. A member of the royal family of Acheh, Sumatra and descendant of a sovereign Arab family, Hussain became a hugely successful entrepreneur and one of the wealthiest merchants and landowners in Penang.

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Lemang: an insight into tradition, taste and timelessness

Lemang © Adrian Cheah

In Penang and across Malaysia the lemang is available all year round. Nonetheless, it has become a special dish during the Hari Raya celebrations – Hari Raya Aidilfitri (Eid al-Fitr) and Hari Raya Aidiladha (Eid al-Adha). Although its preparation seems simple enough, cooking lemang requires an open area with ample ventilation – which is why most people just prefer to buy lemang rather than attempt to make it themselves.

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Church of the Holy Name of Jesus – a historical church in a sleepy hollow

Church of the Holy Name of Jesus © Adrian Cheah

Introduction

Old churches are fascinating buildings. Aside from their obvious roles as houses for worship and community gathering, old churches are also well known for their sublime architecture and illustrious histories. The Western continent has some of the finest and world-renowned churches, the mind immediately recalling structures like the early Gothic-styled Notre Dame in Paris (1163), St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican (349AD) and St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York City (19th century). Equally fascinating ones also include the Santa Maria Maggiore (430AD) and Santa Prassede (780AD) in Rome and the Saxon Brixworth and Escombe churches in England (around 670AD).

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The Baking Garage offers a great loaf for the table

The Baking Garage © Adrian Cheah

It is such a joy listening to the sound of a butter knife spreading butter onto a warm crispy toast. Tasting the salted butter melting on the bread is something so basic yet remarkably rewarding. Its crispy, comforting bite is heavenly. But hold on – not just any toast: it has to be a thick artisan sourdough slice from The Baking Garage (TBG).

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Hari Raya Open House

Hari Raya © Adrian Cheah

The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language describes an open house as "a social event in which hospitality is extended to all". This could be taken to mean that the diplomacy of inviting one and all to your house to celebrate an event is not an unfamiliar practice. But one could conjecture that nowhere else in the world would you find an open house event as big and as merry as the ones held in Malaysia.

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The Kapitan Keling – a mosque rich in history

Kapitan Keling Mosque © Adrian Cheah

The Kapitan Keling Mosque along Jalan Kapitan Keling (once Pitt Street) is a monumental structure crowned by copper domes. This is the largest historic mosque in George Town, founded around 1800.

The name of the mosque was taken from the Kapitan Kelings, people who were appointed leaders of the South Indian community by the British.

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Tsukiji Sushi Bar: A Front-Row Seat to the Art of Sushi Making

Tsukiji Sushi Bar © Adrian Cheah

My daughter Jean and I had a good luncheon at Tsukiji Sushi Bar, located at City Junction, Penang. The open-kitchen concept allowed us to watch the chefs at work, showcasing their precision and artistry. This reflects the "shokunin" spirit – a Japanese philosophy of lifelong dedication to mastering one’s craft, where even the simplest dishes are continuously refined. As a creative soul, I have always been drawn to Japanese restaurants, where each dish is presented on exquisite utsuwa (ceramic ware), enhancing its colours and textures. At Tsukiji Sushi Bar, freshness and flavour are celebrated alongside beauty and tradition.

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Make your own ketupat daun palas (glutinous rice wrapped in palm leaves)

Ketupat © Adrian Cheah

The most popular types of ketupat found in Malaysia are ketupat nasi (made with plain rice) and ketupat daun palas (made with glutinous rice). While both varieties are wrapped in palm leaves and then boiled, they use different types of leaves: ketupat nasi is typically wrapped in young coconut leaves (daun kelapa muda), whereas ketupat daun palas is enclosed in Licuala palm leaves (daun palas). It is said that ketupat daun palas originated from the northern states – Penang, Kedah and Perlis – while ketupat nasi is more popular in Perak.

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