Adrian Cheah

Tow Boo Kong Temple—an epic edifice where gods descend on Earth

Tow Boo Kong Temple © Adrian Cheah

At the northern end of Jalan Raja Uda, where the ordinary rhythms of Butterworth give way to the extraordinary, Tow Boo Kong Temple rises in a blaze of colour, craftsmanship and celestial ambition. One of the most celebrated places of worship in Seberang Perai, this magnificent Taoist sanctuary is dedicated to the Nine Emperor Gods, whose annual festival draws devotees and curious onlookers into its orbit. Its grandeur belies humble beginnings. In the early 1970s, the temple was little more than a modest shrine beneath an attap roof. By 2000, it had been transformed into the monumental complex seen today, its splendour crowned by an imposing entrance archway completed in 2009.

Savoury Cantonese-style dishes at Zen Xin Vegetarian Restaurant

Zen Xin Vegetarian © Adrian Cheah

Zen Xin Vegetarian Restaurant sits along Nagore Road in George Town, where Cantonese-style cooking meets the remarkable ingenuity of Chinese vegetarian cuisine. One of the things I find most fascinating about dining at a Chinese vegetarian restaurant in Penang is the sheer creativity that goes into transforming humble plant-based ingredients into dishes that recall the familiar flavours, textures and forms of meat and seafood.

La Vie en Mei Gui Café—Between Buckingham and Penang

La Vie en Mei Gui Café; Photos © Adrian Cheah

Walking into La Vie en Mei Gui Café with my daughter for lunch brought back a rather unexpected memory. At the entrance, you are greeted by Prince William and Kate Middleton, while upstairs at the landing, Queen Elizabeth II stands in regal splendour. Chandeliers hang above, grand floral arrangements fill the rooms, and gilded details sit against lush crimson. British memorabilia completes the setting, with every corner arranged almost like a picture postcard. John H'ng has certainly embraced the theme wholeheartedly.

Kek Lok Si Temple, the monastery on Crane Hill

Kek Lok Si © Adrian Cheah

In Chinese iconography, the Crane holds special significance. It is an auspicious symbol denoting longevity, and wisdom that comes with age. The Crane is said to manifest a peculiar interest in human affairs and is also often associated with good luck, high-mindedness, purity and freedom.

Stitching Through Hardship: A Nyonya's War-Time Chronicle

Emily © Adrian Cheah

At the Church of the Assumption, nestled amidst the bustling streets of George Town, the hearts of Louis Michael Martin and Emily Elizabeth Surin became forever entwined. Their love story found its new beginning on 7 August 1926, when Rev. Fr. P. Lerond officiated their marriage. The church would have looked somewhat different then from the one we see today, as it underwent a major renovation in 1928, when two wings were added.

An "Oishii" Treat at Buu Buu Dessert Club

Buu Buu Dessert Club; photos © Adrian Cheah

One of the most fascinating things that struck me when I was in Japan in the autumn of 2012 had to be its extraordinary dessert culture. In Nara, my family and I witnessed Nakatanidou showcasing the ancient art of mochi pounding, where skilled artisans rhythmically transformed steaming glutinous rice into soft, delicate confections with astonishing speed and precision. Watching the craftsmen work was mesmerising, a beautiful reminder that in Japan, desserts are often deeply intertwined with tradition, craftsmanship, and theatre.

The Grand Celebration of the Nine Emperor Gods in Penang

Nine Emperor Gods Festival © Adrian Cheah

How far would you go to uphold your faith? Would you, with unwavering conviction, embrace a strict vegetarian diet for nine days straight? Could you walk barefoot across burning embers or pierce your cheeks with a long steel rod, enduring pain as an offering of devotion? Or would you rather remain an armchair devotee, watching from afar, content in the safety of your comfort zone?

Uo Shin Penang—Worth Beating the Queue For

Uo Shin Penang; Photos © Adrian Cheah

I have often noticed the crowd waiting to get into Uo Shin on Jalan Macalister whenever I passed by. So when my daughter Jean and I decided to try it for the first time, we thought it best to go early. We arrived around noon, just as lunch was getting started, and were comfortably seated before the crowd began to build.

Comfort Food Done Right At Gilda

On Soo Hong Lane, one of George Town's narrowest heritage lanes, stands Gilda, a modern neo-bistro that has captured the hearts of diners with its honest cooking and warm hospitality. After spending an evening there, I realised that the true charm of Gilda goes beyond its striking setting and thoughtfully crafted menu. It is found in the people behind it.

Timothy Tye's journey: preserving Penang Hokkien through an online dictionary

Penang Hokkien dictionary

I am filled with immense pride to witness the presence of unsung heroes in Penang, individuals driven by a shared belief in uplifting their community. Among them stands Timothy Tye, a beacon of inspiration. Since its inception on 5 January 2003, his Penang Travel Tips website has provided invaluable information on Penang (now extended to cover Malaysia as well as Singapore). Timothy is not only a prominent foodie and YouTuber but is also a passionate advocate for the preservation of Penang Hokkien.

Hema Hema: A Lovely Scoop in the World of Artisan Ice Cream

On most afternoons along Campbell Street, a queue often snakes into a pre-war Straits Eclectic shophouse. In Penang, where people are notoriously discerning about food, queues usually mean one of two things: hype or the real deal. Hema Hema, established in 2022, has been around long enough for reputation to settle—and in this case, it feels like the latter.

Lifting hope in Penang at Wat Buppharam Buddhist Temple

Wat Buppharam may not appear on every traveller’s must-see list in Penang, but those who step into its tranquil embrace are often rewarded with sacred and unexpected discoveries. Can a silent statue whisper the truth of your wishes? Within its shrine hall rests a humble, one-foot-tall figure known as the “Lifting Buddha”, a sacred icon believed to be able to reveal just that!

Discovering Penang, One Story at a Time