Penang has always fascinated me with its blend of old and new: a historic trading port, a UNESCO World Heritage city, a thriving centre of commerce and industry, and a home to many cultures, traditions and flavours that have come together over generations. However, Penang is more than its landmarks and famous dishes. Its soul can be found in the people I meet, the stories I hear and the memories shared along the way. This is my journey through Penang and beyond.
On most afternoons along Campbell Street, a queue often snakes into a pre-war Straits Eclectic shophouse. In Penang, where people are notoriously discerning about food, queues usually mean one of two things: hype or the real deal. Hema Hema, established in 2022, has been around long enough for reputation to settle—and in this case, it feels like the latter.
I usually stay away from horror stories, especially those that have blood and gore plastered all over the cover. I know that one should never judge a book by its cover. However having been an art director for more than three decades, I feel that a cover has to set the right tone and sell the book. The cover of "Looking After the Ashes" by Kopi Soh shows two wide-eyed kids, enchanted by the storyteller, enveloped with an eerie atmosphere. Picking up the book, I would not have been able to anticipate that it would be a page-turner for me.
Growing up in Ayer Itam in the 1970s was like being part of a celebration that never truly ended. The wet market was the heart of our lives, a place where food was not only sold but also shared, improvised and made personal. We carried our own tiffin carriers, sometimes even our own eggs, to hand over to the char koay kak lady or to Pak Dollah, the mee goreng man. They accepted them without question, as if it had always been the way things were done. Ah Heng, the rojak man, set up his cart just outside my house. I can still picture him skewering green mango halves with a lidi, topping them in thick rojak sauce and crushed peanuts—a truly scrumptious snack. His bangkwang slices, prepared in the same way, were another favourite of mine, cool and crunchy against the richness of the rojak sauce. In time, Ah Heng moved from rojak to koay teow th'ng. I thought I would miss the old flavours, but his bowls of noodles soon became their own kind of comfort. Minced pork, tender slices of meat, liver and fish balls where everything came together in a broth that warmed you from the inside out. And always, there was the finishing touch of bak yu phok (fried lard) and spring onions.
A life lived with grace, generosity, and an irrepressible artistic spirit
A Beam of Sunlight
There are people who pass through our lives quietly, leaving the faintest ripple on the surface of our days. And then there are those whose presence is like a beam of sunlight, lighting a room simply by being in it. For me, Oon Suan See was one of the latter.
Negaraku
Tanah tumpahnya darahku
Rakyat hidup, bersatu dan maju
Rahmat bahgia, Tuhan kurniakan
Raja kita selamat bertakhta
Rahmat bahgia, Tuhan kurniakan
Raja kita selamat bertakhta
Malaysia's Independence Day, observed on the 31 August, is far more than a mere historical commemoration; it embodies the very soul of a nation. Known as Merdeka Day, this significant occasion marks not only the moment the country gained its freedom but also the genesis of a nation that, despite its rich diversity, strides forward as one unified people.
One of the most fascinating things that struck me when I was in Japan in the autumn of 2012 had to be its extraordinary dessert culture. In Nara, my family and I witnessed Nakatanidou showcasing the ancient art of mochi pounding, where skilled artisans rhythmically transformed steaming glutinous rice into soft, delicate confections with astonishing speed and precision. Watching the craftsmen work was mesmerising, a beautiful reminder that in Japan, desserts are often deeply intertwined with tradition, craftsmanship, and theatre.
Every year, the streets of George Town in Penang come alive, not just with the living but with the hungry ghosts of the underworld. This is no ordinary celebration. The Hungry Ghost Festival, or Phor Thor as it is locally known, is a month-long festivities observed by Chinese communities not only in Penang but also throughout Malaysia, Singapore and Phuket.
Wat Buppharam may not appear on every traveller’s must-see list in Penang, but those who step into its tranquil embrace are often rewarded with sacred and unexpected discoveries. Can a silent statue whisper the truth of your wishes? Within its shrine hall rests a humble, one-foot-tall figure known as the “Lifting Buddha”, a sacred icon believed to be able to reveal just that!
The score of "Untuk Negeri Kita" by Awaluddin Zainal Alam.
For more than half a century, the state anthem, "Untuk Negeri Kita" (“For Our State”), has been more than just a ceremonial tune. For me, it was the song that opened every school assembly at La Salle Primary School and later echoed through the colonial hallways of St. Xavier's Institution during my secondary years. We sang it with pride, unaware of the layered history behind its creation.
Behind the simple and slightly derivative design, the Malaysian flag has, since its creation, served as a silent testament to the country's heritage and cultural mix, and upholding cherished values like freedom and justice.
In 1956, the then Prime Minister of Malaysia Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al-Haj led a delegation to London to hold talks with the British Government concerning independence for Malaya.
The Malayan delegation, comprising of four representatives of the Malay Rulers and four Alliance representatives, convinced the British Government to set a date for independence: 31 August 1957.