Penang has always fascinated me with its blend of old and new: a historic trading port, a UNESCO World Heritage city, a thriving centre of commerce and industry, and a home to many cultures, traditions and flavours that have come together over generations. However, Penang is more than its landmarks and famous dishes. Its soul can be found in the people I meet, the stories I hear and the memories shared along the way. This is my journey through Penang and beyond.
On Sunday, 14 July 2024, I had the pleasure of attending an enchanting evening at the Grand Ballroom of Jen Hotel. The occasion was the screening of "Lim Boon Keng – The Musical", thoughtfully paired with a Penang-Singapore people-to-people friendship dinner. The event combined cultural celebration, historical reflection and fine dining, creating a charming evening.
Every year, as the seventh lunar month approaches, the streets of George Town take on an otherworldly character. For a time, the city seems to belong not only to the living, but also to the "hungry ghosts" said to descend from the underworld in search of food, offerings and perhaps a little earthly attention. Known locally as Phor Thor, the Hungry Ghost Festival is far more than a single day of ritual or remembrance. Its observances unfold throughout the seventh lunar month, weaving their way through the communities of Penang and across Malaysia, and into neighbouring Singapore and Phuket, where Chinese traditions have likewise taken root. It is a season when the veil between this world and the next seems, if only for a while, remarkably thin.
Negaraku
Tanah tumpahnya darahku
Rakyat hidup, bersatu dan maju
Rahmat bahgia, Tuhan kurniakan
Raja kita selamat bertakhta
Rahmat bahgia, Tuhan kurniakan
Raja kita selamat bertakhta
The score of "Untuk Negeri Kita" by Awaluddin Zainal Alam.
For more than half a century, the state anthem, "Untuk Negeri Kita" (“For Our State”), has been more than just a ceremonial tune. For me, it was the song that opened every school assembly at La Salle Primary School and later echoed through the colonial hallways of St. Xavier's Institution during my secondary years. We sang it with pride, unaware of the layered history behind its creation.
At the Church of the Assumption, nestled amidst the bustling streets of George Town, the hearts of Louis Michael Martin and Emily Elizabeth Surin became forever entwined. Their love story found its new beginning on 7 August 1926, when Rev. Fr. P. Lerond officiated their marriage. The church would have looked somewhat different then from the one we see today, as it underwent a major renovation in 1928, when two wings were added.
On Soo Hong Lane, one of George Town's narrowest heritage lanes, stands Gilda, a modern neo-bistro that has captured the hearts of diners with its honest cooking and warm hospitality. After spending an evening there, I realised that the true charm of Gilda goes beyond its striking setting and thoughtfully crafted menu. It is found in the people behind it.
Walking into La Vie en Mei Gui Café with my daughter for lunch brought back a rather unexpected memory. At the entrance, you are greeted by Prince William and Kate Middleton, while upstairs at the landing, Queen Elizabeth II stands in regal splendour. Chandeliers hang above, grand floral arrangements fill the rooms, and gilded details sit against lush crimson. British memorabilia completes the setting, with every corner arranged almost like a picture postcard. John H'ng has certainly embraced the theme wholeheartedly.
Malaysia's Independence Day, observed on the 31 August, is far more than a mere historical commemoration; it embodies the very soul of a nation. Known as Merdeka Day, this significant occasion marks not only the moment the country gained its freedom but also the genesis of a nation that, despite its rich diversity, strides forward as one unified people.
Growing up in Ayer Itam in the 1970s was like being part of a celebration that never truly ended. The wet market was the heart of our lives, a place where food was abundant, varied and, to my young palate, simply sedaplicious. We carried our own tiffin carriers, sometimes even our own eggs, to hand over to the char koay kak lady or to Pak Dollah, the mee goreng man. They accepted them without fuss. That was how we Penangites are—prudent, practical and never wasteful.
"The melting pot or mixing bowl images do not provide an adequate picture of Penang. The kaleidoscope, with its shifting patterns of colourful pieces, overlapping sometimes to make new shapes, some larger in one frame and smaller in others, offers a better metaphor for Penang's multi-ethnic population and its changes over time." – Sarnia Hayes Hoyt Old Penang 1991
Let us take a moment to reflect on the name of Malaysia’s national flower, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. The word “hibiscus” has its roots in ancient Greece, derived from the Greek hibiskos. The name was recorded by the physician Pedanius Dioscorides (c. 40–90 AD) for a mallow plant now generally identified as marsh mallow, Althaea officinalis. Dioscorides described the plant in his celebrated "De Materia Medica", a five-volume work on medicinal plants and substances that became one of the most influential texts on herbal medicine in the ancient world.
I have always stayed away from horror stories, particularly those that announce their intentions with blood and gore splashed across the cover. We are told never to judge a book by its cover. However, after more than three decades as an art director, I have always believed that a cover has a responsibility. It must set the tone, stir curiosity and, ultimately, invite the reader in.