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Discovering Penang, One Story at a Time

Penang has always fascinated me with its blend of old and new: a historic trading port, a UNESCO World Heritage city, a thriving centre of commerce and industry, and a home to many cultures, traditions and flavours that have come together over generations. However, Penang is more than its landmarks and famous dishes. Its soul can be found in the people I meet, the stories I hear and the memories shared along the way. This is my journey through Penang and beyond.

My understanding of All Saints' Day

All Saints' Day © Adrian Cheah

Images of St. Joseph from the Roman Catholic Penang Diocesan Museum, Farquhar Street, Penang.

Can you name five saints, even if you are not Catholic? Perhaps the first name that comes to mind is St. Anne, honoured in Christian tradition as the mother of Mary and grandmother of Jesus. Her legacy endures in the Minor Basilica of St. Anne in Bukit Mertajam. Beside her stands her daughter Mary, the mother of Jesus, two figures whose stories continue to inspire and move people across generations.

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Tow Boo Kong Temple—an epic edifice where gods descend on Earth

Tow Boo Kong Temple © Adrian Cheah

At the northern end of Jalan Raja Uda, where the ordinary rhythms of Butterworth give way to the extraordinary, Tow Boo Kong Temple rises in a blaze of colour, craftsmanship and celestial ambition. One of the most celebrated places of worship in Seberang Perai, this magnificent Taoist sanctuary is dedicated to the Nine Emperor Gods, whose annual festival draws devotees and curious onlookers into its orbit. Its grandeur belies humble beginnings. In the early 1970s, the temple was little more than a modest shrine beneath an attap roof. By 2000, it had been transformed into the monumental complex seen today, its splendour crowned by an imposing entrance archway completed in 2009.

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La Vie en Mei Gui Café—Between Buckingham and Penang

La Vie en Mei Gui Café; Photos © Adrian Cheah

Walking into La Vie en Mei Gui Café with my daughter for lunch brought back a rather unexpected memory. At the entrance, you are greeted by Prince William and Kate Middleton, while upstairs at the landing, Queen Elizabeth II stands in regal splendour. Chandeliers hang above, grand floral arrangements fill the rooms, and gilded details sit against lush crimson. British memorabilia completes the setting, with every corner arranged almost like a picture postcard. John H'ng has certainly embraced the theme wholeheartedly.

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Kek Lok Si Temple, the monastery on Crane Hill

Kek Lok Si © Adrian Cheah

In Chinese iconography, the Crane holds special significance. It is an auspicious symbol denoting longevity, and wisdom that comes with age. The Crane is said to manifest a peculiar interest in human affairs and is also often associated with good luck, high-mindedness, purity and freedom.

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Stitching Through Hardship: A Nyonya's War-Time Chronicle

Emily © Adrian Cheah

At the Church of the Assumption, nestled amidst the bustling streets of George Town, the hearts of Louis Michael Martin and Emily Elizabeth Surin became forever entwined. Their love story found its new beginning on 7 August 1926, when Rev. Fr. P. Lerond officiated their marriage. The church would have looked somewhat different then from the one we see today, as it underwent a major renovation in 1928, when two wings were added.

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An "Oishii" Treat at Buu Buu Dessert Club

Buu Buu Dessert Club; photos © Adrian Cheah

One of the most fascinating things that struck me when I was in Japan in the autumn of 2012 had to be its extraordinary dessert culture. In Nara, my family and I witnessed Nakatanidou showcasing the ancient art of mochi pounding, where skilled artisans rhythmically transformed steaming glutinous rice into soft, delicate confections with astonishing speed and precision. Watching the craftsmen work was mesmerising, a beautiful reminder that in Japan, desserts are often deeply intertwined with tradition, craftsmanship, and theatre.

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Remembering loved ones on All Souls' Day

All Souls' Day © Adrian Cheah

All Souls' Day is a solemn way to remember those who have passed, to keep their memory alive in our hearts and to offer prayers for their souls. This day gently calls us to extend our compassion beyond the familiar, not only for those we have loved deeply but also for the "neglected souls" – those who may have been forgotten over time. Such prayers are seen as acts of charity, offerings made in the spirit of hope, that all souls may find peace on their journey to heaven.

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Uo Shin Penang—Worth Beating the Queue For

Uo Shin Penang; Photos © Adrian Cheah

I have often noticed the crowd waiting to get into Uo Shin on Jalan Macalister whenever I passed by. So when my daughter Jean and I decided to try it for the first time, we thought it best to go early. We arrived around noon, just as lunch was getting started, and were comfortably seated before the crowd began to build.

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Comfort Food Done Right At Gilda

Gilda; photos © Adrian Cheah

On Soo Hong Lane, one of George Town's narrowest heritage lanes, stands Gilda, a modern neo-bistro that has captured the hearts of diners with its honest cooking and warm hospitality. After spending an evening there, I realised that the true charm of Gilda goes beyond its striking setting and thoughtfully crafted menu. It is found in the people behind it.

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Timothy Tye's journey: preserving Penang Hokkien through an online dictionary

Penang Hokkien dictionary

I am filled with immense pride to witness the presence of unsung heroes in Penang, individuals driven by a shared belief in uplifting their community. Among them stands Timothy Tye, a beacon of inspiration. Since its inception on 5 January 2003, his Penang Travel Tips website has provided invaluable information on Penang (now extended to cover Malaysia as well as Singapore). Timothy is not only a prominent foodie and YouTuber but is also a passionate advocate for the preservation of Penang Hokkien.

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Hema Hema: A Lovely Scoop in the World of Artisan Ice Cream

Hema Hema Ice Cream; photos © Adrian Cheah

On most afternoons along Campbell Street, a queue often snakes into a pre-war Straits Eclectic shophouse. In Penang, where people are notoriously discerning about food, queues usually mean one of two things: hype or the real deal. Hema Hema, established in 2022, has been around long enough for reputation to settle—and in this case, it feels like the latter.

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Lifting hope in Penang at Wat Buppharam Buddhist Temple

Wat Buppharam © Adrian Cheah

Wat Buppharam may not appear on every traveller’s must-see list in Penang, but those who step into its tranquil embrace are often rewarded with sacred and unexpected discoveries. Can a silent statue whisper the truth of your wishes? Within its shrine hall rests a humble, one-foot-tall figure known as the “Lifting Buddha”, a sacred icon believed to be able to reveal just that!

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