Are Thai flavours at Thara Penang worth exploring?
For those who appreciate bold and exciting flavours, Thai cuisine is sure to captivate. Known for its delicate balance of sweet, sour, salty and spicy notes, it offers a vibrant culinary experience. From aromatic herbs to fiery spices, each creation takes your palate on a fantastical journey. In Penang, the availability of Thai food stalls and restaurants assures you will be spoilt for choice.
Like Malaysia, Thai cuisine has a rich history shaped over centuries, influenced by diverse cultures and culinary traditions. A key element is its emphasis on fresh, aromatic ingredients. Thai cooks rely on herbs like lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, coriander leaves and Thai basil to impart distinctive flavours to their dishes. These herbs, combined with spices such as ginger, turmeric and galangal, create the bold, harmonious taste that defines Thai food.
Thara Penang, a Thai restaurant located in Lorong Prangin in the heart of Georgetown, opened its doors in July 2022 and has quickly become a favourite among Thai food enthusiasts. Whether you are a meat lover, seafood fan or enjoy greens, the menu offers something for everyone.
When Michelin unveiled its first-ever guide to Malaysia, Penang’s recognition as a food destination caught global attention – though it sparked some scepticism among locals. Recently, my family and I dined at Thara to see if this Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant truly lives up to the acclaim.
Miang kham (RM24.00+) is a fun and flavourful way to whet the appetite. Fresh betel leaves are served as wraps for various condiments – toasted coconut flakes, peanuts, lime, shallots, cabai burung (bird’s eye chillies), hea bee (dried shrimp) and ginger. A thick, syrupy sauce is provided on the side to bind the flavours together. Enjoying these little parcels makes for the perfect appetiser as you wait for the rest of the meal. Interestingly, "miang" means "wrapped" in Thai, while "kham" refers to "a bite".
That evening, we skipped Miang kham and opted for just four dishes, as we were a small party of three. The first dish I was looking forward to sampling was har mok talay ma phao – a Thai-style otak-otak served in a young coconut (RM38.00+). This dish included fresh seafood (prawns, fish and squid) infused with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal and other aromatic herbs and spices. I asked to tone down the spiciness for my daughter, who is not fond of heat. While the dish was milder than I usually prefer, it was still incredibly flavourful and well-prepared. Even without the fiery kick, it was lip-smackingly good.
For a crunchy element, we chose deep-fried kang kong (water spinach, RM22.00+), one of my daughter's favourite dishes at Thai restaurants. It was served with a Thai chilli sauce on the side. While the dish was enjoyable, I could not help but feel that pairing it with a vinegary minced pork and prawn salsa would elevate the dish further. This addition would add another layer of texture and flavour while also balancing the greasiness of the deep-frying.
Another Thai classic we savoured was the green curry chicken with Thai apple eggplants (gaeng keow wan kai, RM26.00+). Prepared with chicken thigh, the meat was tender and the curry had a lovely consistency – not too thick or rich, making it perfect for slurping. I suspect the green curry paste was freshly prepared in-house. Common ingredients in the paste include white pepper, ground cumin, ground coriander, fresh galangal, lemongrass, shallots, green chillies, coriander root, garlic, kapi (Thai shrimp paste) and kaffir lime zest and leaves.
Interestingly, according to a National Geographic article from 15 March 2020, the first known mention of green curry in a Thai cookbook dates back to 1926, making it a relatively recent addition to Thai cuisine. The Thai name for the dish, "gaeng keow wan," translates to "sweet green curry," but in this context, "sweet green" refers to the colour rather than the flavour.
The steamed clams in spicy lime and chilli sauce (noi neung manao, RM28.00+) arrived topped with coriander leaves and kept warm by a tea light underneath. The plump clams were beautifully complemented by the zesty, spicy sauce. We enjoyed all the dishes with fragrant steamed jasmine rice.
There are many more dishes I look forward to sampling on my next visit, including the fiery tom yum seafood soup (both creamy and clear versions), refreshing salads, crispy pork knuckle and a variety of prawn and fish dishes. Each promises a unique taste experience I am eager to sample.
Penangite Ooi Joe Cherd is the owner-chef behind the restaurant, collaborating with a team of Thai chefs from Chiang Mai and Bangkok. These chefs are skilled in both northern and southern Thai cuisine. I appreciate that they occasionally introduce new dishes, keeping the menu fresh and exciting.
The service at Thara Penang was commendable – friendly and attentive, adding to the overall dining experience.
It is advisable to book ahead for a table, especially on weekends. The dining hall boasts a high timber ceiling and a calming dark forest green decor, complemented by maroon drapery, blue and silver artworks, and rattan lampshades. For private gatherings of up to 10 pax, a VIP room is available (with minimum spending of RM600).
If you are in search of a memorable Thai feast, consider giving Thara Penang a try and see if you agree with the Michelin guide's assessment. So, are Thai flavours at Thara Penang worth exploring? Absolutely!
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
22 September 2024
Thara Penang
5, Lorong Prangin, George Town, 10300 Penang
T: +6014-990 1400
Daily from 12–3 pm, 5–10 pm except Thursdays; and only dinner on Wednesdays
Diners can enjoy a 15% discount from Monday to Wednesday (be sure to check for the latest updates). The drink menu includes popular Thai milk teas, but note that alcohol is not served and credit cards are not accepted.