Adrian Cheah

The floral bath (mandi bunga) ritual

floral bath © Adrian Cheah

The Russian musician Igor Stravinsky might have composed Le Sacre du Printemps (The Rites of Spring) as an exploration of nature and the rituals of renewal and sacrifice, but one could safely conjecture that the ritual and ceremony of the Malaysian floral bath was created for more personal (and less lofty) reasons. The two may be worlds apart, but both Stravinsky and the local bomoh share one thing – invoking the power and the mystery of nature and the elements in their work.

"Looking After the Ashes" – unravelling the enigmatic Chinese Peranakan world of taboos and traditions

Looking After the Ashes

I usually stay away from horror stories, especially those that have blood and gore plastered all over the cover. I know that one should never judge a book by its cover. However having been an art director for more than three decades, I feel that a cover has to set the right tone and sell the book. The cover of "Looking After the Ashes" by Kopi Soh shows two wide-eyed kids, enchanted by the storyteller, enveloped with an eerie atmosphere. Picking up the book, I would not have been able to anticipate that it would be a page-turner for me.

The upside-down tree – Penang's very own Baobab

Penang's Baobab tree © Adrian Cheah

According to African legend, the Baobab wanted to become the most beautiful tree of all. When it realised that this was not possible, it put its head into the ground, so only the roots pointed heavenward. Another legend holds that when the Baobab was planted by God, it kept walking, so God pulled it up and replanted it upside down to stop it from moving.

Types of durians I am crazy about

durian © Adrian Cheah

People have their own preferences when it comes to durians and mine lean strongly towards fruits from older trees. These tend to yield durians with a smoother, creamier texture and a deeper, more pronounced aroma and flavour. Interestingly, even durians from the same tree can taste different from one season to the next, influenced by soil composition and changing weather conditions. For instance, the much-coveted Or Chi (Black Thorn) does not always deliver the same profile each year.

The durian burger, a journey of discovery

durian burger © Adrian Cheah

I am game for all things durian. Durian egg tarts are delicious. Homemade durian ice cream is such a sinful treat, especially eaten with crispy kuih kapit (love letters). Passion Heart Cafe bakes one-of-a-kind Fresh Cream Durian Cake; it is a sponge cake layered with fresh cream and creamy durian paste, topped with durian kaya (coconut jam). This is one of my favourite cakes at the cafe.

The exotic hairy fruit called the rambutan

Penang rambutan © Adrian Cheah

In the vast range of local fruits available in Penang, the rambutan is a popular choice among Penangites. Rambutans are tied up in bunches of 50 or 100 each and sold at roadside stalls, at marketplaces and by some fruit vendors when in season. Prices vary according to size and quality. Rambutans sold in Penang are always fresh as they come straight from the local orchards.

Penang's Cina Wayang (Chinese opera) – for gods and ghosts

Chinese opera © Adrian Cheah

Growing up in Ayer Itam in the 1970s was like living in an endless festival. The wet market was our food playground, where you could buy something delicious at any time of the day. We would show up with our own tiffin carriers and even supply our own eggs to the char koay kak lady or Pak Dollah, the mee goreng uncle, who always accepted them without batting an eyelid. Ah Heng, the rojak man, parked his cart in front of my house. He would skewer halved green mangoes with a lidi (coconut leaf stick), smothering them in thick rojak sauce and crushed peanuts, creating a truly scrumptious snack. His sliced bangkwang, topped with similar ingredients, was another of my favourite treats. When Ah Heng eventually pivoted from rojak to koay teow th'ng, it was a welcomed change. His bowl of noodles was packed with minced pork, pork slices, liver, fish balls and topped with bak yu phok (fried lard) and spring onions.

Hungry Ghosts roam the Streets of George Town

Hungry Ghosts © Adrian Cheah

Every year, the streets of George Town in Penang come alive, not just with the living but with the hungry ghosts of the underworld. This is no ordinary celebration. The Hungry Ghost Festival, or Phor Thor as it is locally known, is a month-long festivities observed by Chinese communities not only in Penang but also throughout Malaysia, Singapore and Phuket.

Penang Buddhist Association – a heart of devotion

It was a bright, sun-dappled morning when I stepped into the grounds of Penang Buddhist Association (PBA) and there it stood – the magnificent Bodhi tree (Ficus religiosa). I marvelled at its presence, imagining the journey of the sapling that once was – now grown into a towering testament of faith and endurance. This is no ordinary tree. A sacred gift from Sri Lanka, it is believed to be a direct descendant of the very fig tree under which Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment in Bodh Gaya. Its lineage, through the revered Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi in Anuradhapura – planted in 288 BCE – connects Penang to a living legacy of over two millennia.

Durian, the sensational "King of the Fruits"

“You should wash your hands using water poured over the inside chambers of a hollowed durian skin. It will remove the strong odour from your fingers", urged Mr Teh, my neighbour who accompanied me on a durian feast at one of the many durian orchards in Balik Pulau. That morning, we had a satisfying breakfast like no other, amidst the natural surroundings of the orchard, shaded by towering durian trees.

Northern Thai offerings and more at Siam Social in Noordin Street

Thanks to Nazlina Hussin, I had the opportunity to attend an intimate food tasting session at Siam Social, a stylish new restaurant and bar on Noordin Street. We were welcomed by Calvin Lim, a former banker who has transitioned into the restaurant scene with a creative flair for interior design and a thoughtful appreciation for good food. The menu offers an interesting mix of Western fare infused with Northern Thai influences, including items ranging from pastas and pizzas to more regionally inspired dishes. To make selection easier, the menu also includes set items for both individuals and groups.

Discovering the versatility of the mangosteen, the "queen of fruits"

Penang is widely acclaimed as a food paradise, renowned not only for its delectable street food and authentic Nyonya cuisine but also for its eclectic mix of foreign flavours. During fruit seasons, Penang is celebrated for its famous Balik Pulau durians as well as a variety of exotic tropical fruits including rambutans, mangosteens, cempedak (jackfruit) and langsat.

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