Glorious food
Having a reputation as a food paradise, be it haute cuisine, or cuisine bourgeoise (hawker fare), Penang offers a heady and exotic mix of delicious cuisine to choose from.
In a word, Penang food is both famous and fabulous. When people mention Penang food, they are more often than not referring to hawker food and coffee shop dining. It is true that some of the hype is overblown but it cannot be denied that Penang is home to many uniquely delicious chow. Ironically, hawkers in other states or towns have been known to pull the crowd by simply advertising their food as hailing from Penang, regardless of its authenticity or quality. Then there are the Penang hawkers who advertise their cuisine as specialties from another state, like Johor bak kut teh, Ipoh chicken and bean sprouts or laksa Kedah. In short, an infinite variety of dishes are yours to savour – all you need to do is pick and choose.
Penang hawker food can be broken down roughly into several varieties, with each being attributable to Penang's multi-cultural character: Nyonya, Chinese, vegetarian, Indian, Malay, Hakka-styled Western, seafood and desserts. Hybrids are also known to exist, and some famous examples are Malay-style chicken rice and char koay teow, and Chinese satay and nasi lemak. The prices are cheap and reasonable.
With fishing being a major economic activity on the island, Penang is naturally a haven for seafood, and a handful of restaurants have already achieved legendary status among locals and foreigners. Tucked away in remote corners, these eateries are not easy to find without local guidance but are definitely worth the extra effort to seek out.
Desserts play a major role in Penang gastronomy. There are as many varieties as there are races in Penang! To mention a few would do injustice to the rest, so you would just have to let your nose and eyes be your guide. A word of warning though – most local desserts tend to be sweet and rich, as coconut milk, flour and sugar are the main ingredients.
Thanks to early Chinese migrants, Chinese cuisine ranges from Cantonese to Teochew to Hokkien to Hainanese to Szechuan cooking. There's also Penang Nyonya food, which is a combination of Chinese, Malay and some Thai. The Penang variety of Nyonya food, apparently, is different from the Malaccan or even Singaporean versions. For a touch of luxury, try a five or ten-course Chinese meal at one of the restaurants or hotels in town.
Indian cuisine goes by two names generally – banana leaf rice and nasi kandar. Both are hot and savoury with rice being the main staple, and a menu from north Indian tandoori and nan bread, to South Indian rice and chapati.
Nasi kandar is famously popular with Penangites, and many restaurants selling it are well known not only to those on the island but those in other states as well. It is quite common to find people from other states detouring to Penang just to stop for a meal of nasi kandar before continuing on their journey elsewhere...
Indulge! Savour!
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah © All rights reserved
Updated: 6 March 2019
Time always for Laksa
Penang Assam Laksa is amongst the best-known and loved hawker fare in Penang. A bowl of steamed spaghetti-sized rice vermicelli is first generously garnished with finely sliced vegetables including onions, cucumber, red chillis, pineapple, lettuce, mint and pink bunga kantan (ginger buds).
Durian, the sensational "King of the Fruits"
“You should wash your hands using water poured over the inside chambers of a hollowed durian skin. It will remove the strong odour from your fingers", urged Mr Teh, my neighbour who accompanied me on a durian feast at one of the many durian orchards in Balik Pulau. That morning, we had a satisfying breakfast like no other, amidst the natural surroundings of the orchard, shaded by towering durian trees.
The exotic hairy fruit called the rambutan
In the vast range of local fruits available in Penang, the rambutan is a popular choice among Penangites. Rambutans are tied up in bunches of 50 or 100 each and sold at roadside stalls, at marketplaces and by some fruit vendors when in season. Prices vary according to size and quality. Rambutans sold in Penang are always fresh as they come straight from the local orchards.
Belacan, an integral ingredient in local cuisine
Anyone who has paid attention to local cuisine can safely hazard a guess that Penangites, and Malaysians for that matter, have a predilection for pungent foods! Call it full-flavoured, aromatic, spicy or downright nasty, Malaysian cuisine boasts more pungent varieties than arguably any other country in the world. This piquant character manifests itself in various forms, in fresh fruits (durian and jackfruit), in condiments (budu), preserves (cincaluk and tempoyak) and the innocuous-looking belacan or shrimp paste. The last item is as indispensable to Malaysian cooking as herbs are to Italian cuisine or soya sauce to Chinese. Why some purists go as far as to declare that your 'Malaysianess' hinges on whether or not you like belacan!
Penang’s all-time favourite Char Koay Teow
I have always wondered where the all-so-famous Penang Char Koay Teow came from? Who were its original creators? Some believe that Char Koay Teow (‘fried flat noodles in Teochew) was first sold by Chinese fishermen, farmers and cockle-gatherers on the island who moonlighted as Char Koay Teow hawkers in the evening to supplement their income.
Coconut water – the ultimate elixir for the tropics
As we made our way back from Pantai Kerachut on a sweltering afternoon, my companions and I found ourselves pondering over the ideal beverage to satiate our thirst after an arduous hike, steering clear of the usual carbonated options. After careful consideration, we unanimously opted for one of Mother Nature's marvels – the refreshing, locally abundant coconut water in Penang. With a newfound resolve, we swiftly made our way to the nearest nondescript roadside stall that offered this delightful thirst-buster, located just beyond the exit of the national park in Teluk Bahang.
Bazaar-Ria 2026 – Buffet By The Sea at The Tamarra: The Gathering, The Feast
Words, like spices, travel.
They wander across oceans and time, changing and evolving as they cross from tongue to tongue, until they reach us bearing history and memory. One such word is "bāzār". Persian in origin, it is preserved in the records of Middle Persian during the age of the Sasanian Empire, when cities across the Iranian plateau organised their commercial life along vaulted corridors of exchange. In those ancient urban arteries, goods flowed from caravan to stall, from stall to household, and ideas, languages, recipes, and ambitions flowed just as freely. In cities such as Isfahan, the bazaar became its breathing lung, and to enter it was to enter a world of enchantment and wonder filled with goods from distant lands.
Raikan Rasa at The Tamarra – a seaside Ramadhan buffet like no other
Bayu Nusantara berbisik rindu,
Aroma dapur menjemput pulang,
Hidangan Tamarra kasih bersatu,
Raikan Rasa kenangan gemilang.
How do I gather the right words to capture a feeling so intrinsic, a memory so deep-rooted – one stirred awake and propelled forward through a dining adventure at Tamarra? An experience woven from taste and time, where every flavour carries echoes of the past, every aroma rekindles longing and every bite whispers love. Even after the final spoonful, after the last note of Getaran Jiwa fades, after the cool sea breeze traces its farewell across my face – the night lingers, golden and etched upon the heart.
Kak Ayu’s Quallys Syok Segarnya – a culinary love letter to all
Quallys Syok Segarnya is more than just a restaurant – it is a love letter to Malaysia’s culinary heritage. It embraces the simplicity of fresh ingredients and deep-rooted cooking tradition while adapting to the evolving tastes of today’s diners. Here, the essence of "masakan kampung" (traditional Malay village cooking) shines through, bringing rich, "sedaplicious" flavours to every dish. Malay cuisine, with its harmonious blend of spices, herbs and regional influences, revolves around rice – served with curries, sambal, seafood and meats. It is often enjoyed by hand for an authentic, finger-licking-good experience. At the heart of Quallys is Yusniza Ayu Yusoff, fondly known as Kak Ayu, whose warm, heartfelt approach captures the true spirit of cooking with love.
Luffa by Irama Dining, Penang's new dining gem at The Leith Hotel
I am thrilled to share my thoughts on Luffa, a new gem nestled within the elegant setting of The Leith Hotel, located directly across from Penang's iconic Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. Co-owned by the Irama Dining Group, The Leith Hotel reflects the same dedication to excellence that has become synonymous with the group.
Nostalgic Delights: A Seaside Ramadhan Buffet at The Tamarra
Come, come, whoever you are.
Wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving.
It doesn't matter.
Ours is not a caravan of despair.
Come, even if you have broken your vow a thousand times.
Come, yet again, come, come.
In the spirit of these timeless words by the revered poet Rumi embraces all who seek warmth, hospitality and inclusivity. Likewise, The Tamarra extends its arms wide to welcome you. Here, within the embrace of its Ramadhan buffet – "Nostalgia Warisan by The Sea", every dish, every aroma, every shared moment around the table, holds within it a tale of love, heritage and cherished memories waiting to be uncovered. As you step into the award-winning restaurant, you are invited to embark on a nostalgic culinary journey amidst the comforting embrace of tradition.