Nyonya cooking is peculiar only to the Chinese of Penang, Malacca and Singapore. In a nutshell, the Peranakan culture is itself a melding of two distinct groups, namely the Chinese who settled in Southeast Asia in the 19th century and the local Malays. Out of this intermixture came forth interesting customs and traditions hitherto non-existent. Much of Nyonya cooking is inspired by the rich spices of Malay cooking featuring local herbs and ingredients. However, in Penang, Nyonya cooking also has a very strong Thai influence, borrowing soury and fiery flare from their neighbouring country.
Their distinct curries and spiced salads like acar and kerabu are simply delicious. Typical Nyonya savoury dishes include otak-otak, ayam pongteh, devil's curry, tauyu bak, pai tee, assam pedas, kari kapitan, inche kabin, roti babi, babi chin, kangkung belacan, assam laksa, laksa lemak, ayam buah keluak masak assam, geram asam and itik tim. Nyonya desserts and cakes are also hot favourites.
Cendol/Chendul
Cendol is a favourite dessert among locals. It is easily identified: green pandan-flavoured noodles, kidney beans in white coconut milk with palm sugar. Sweet heavenly stuff – super cheap and ultra good.
For good cendol (in no particular order): Teochew Chendul off Penang Road, Gurney Drive Hawker Centre, Taman Free School food court and Lorong Selamat coffee shop.
Laksa
Penang laksa is extremely popular, especially among locals for its wonderful balance of spicy, sweet and sour flavours. This is strictly a hawker treat, as one is unlikely to find great laksa in a fancy restaurant. It is basically made out of coarse rice noodles in a sour fish in assam-base gravy, plus a robust combo of onions, sliced chilli, cucumber, pineapple and bunga kantan (ginger buds); topped with a swirl of thick, black shrimp paste sauce. There is also an alternative variant called Siam laksa, which has a coconut milk-based soup instead of assam (tamarind).
Available at most hawker centres in Penang. For delicious laksa (in no particular order), try:
Loh bak
Loh bak is a pork roll wrapped with bean curd skin and deep-fried until crispy. The filling includes strips of pork marinated in five-spice powder and various ingredients such as water chestnuts, jicama, carrot and onions. Loh bak is available at most hawker centres throughout Penang. Alongside loh bak, you would be happy to find other companions on offer too such as prawn fritters, spring rolls, fish fritters, fried bean curd, baby octopus as well as century eggs with pickled ginger. Select what you fancy and a plate of these scrumptious delights would be served with sides of freshly cut cucumber and starchy soy-flavoured and chilli dipping sauces.
For the best loh bak in town (in no particular order):
Nyonya kuih
Nyonya kuih include a wide selection of colourful, dainty bites such as angku, bee koh, kuih talam, kow chan kuih, seri muka, pulau tai tai, abuk abuk, onde onde, kuih kosui, pulut inti, rempah udang, kuih tayap, kuih koci and kuih bengka.
For the best Nyonya kuih in town (in no particular order):
Nyonya dishes
Must try Nyonya dishes are kiam chye boay, joo hoo char, otak-otak, sambal boreng, acar awak, perut ikan, asam prawn, asam pedas, nasi ulam, kerabu beehoon, kerabu kacang botol and curry kapitan.
To sample some of the best Nyonya dishes in town, try these restaurants:
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah © All rights reserved
Updated: 23 December 2022
Nyonya kuih are colourful Asian sweet cakes that are popularly served for breakfast and afternoon tea and as snacks any time of the day. The selections are many and varied, available at morning markets and food courts throughout Penang. One such type is the explosively delicious onde onde.
"Yam", as it is often known in Penang, actually refers to taro. While "yam" encompasses various plant species in the Dioscorea genus with edible tubers, Or Kuih specifically uses taro. For local authenticity, I'll stick with "yam". Or Kuih, a steamed yam cake, is a lovely local delicacy topped with aromatic shallot oil, fried dried shrimps, crispy shallots, spring onions and diced chillies. Traditionally served with chilli sauce or "tnee cniau" (sweet sauce) on the side, this dish embodies comfort food. A perfect slice of yam cake should be aromatic and tender, with yam chunks that melt in the mouth.
Looking back on my childhood, the memories that stand out most vividly are often tied to our kitchen – a space where I first discovered my love for cooking. My mother shared so much with me in that lively corner of our home and those lessons remain close to my heart. Whether it was preparing fiery sambal babi or crafting the crunchy, glistening Nyonya jelly known as chio hua (cheok hwa), her guidance filled my childhood with joy and the ho-chiak-ness of good food.
Unwrap a parcel of otak-otak and you will catch a waft of the spicy, delicious egg-like fish custard that is usually served with other dishes common in a Nyonya household. Otak-okak can also be eaten on its own or as an appetiser or even with bread. This popular dish is available at Nyonya restaurants, some food courts and wet markets, as well as a common spread in “Economy Rice” stalls.
Some believe that oysters hold aphrodisiac qualities, while others claim that the tomato, known as pomme d'amour – French for "love apple" – is the true food of love. In Penang, however, there is a delicacy that, despite its romantic name, is neither an aphrodisiac nor a token of affection. Yet those who have tasted it often wax lyrical over its aromatic, sweet and lemak goodness. The "love letter", more commonly known as Kuih Kapit, is a popular favourite, particularly during the Chinese New Year.
Nyonya Kuih Bangkit is a classic Chinese New Year cookie, cherished alongside favourites like Kuih Kapit, peanut cookies and pineapple tarts. Loved by Penangites, this petite, animal-shaped treat captivates with its sweet pandan fragrance that greets you at the first bite. Its slightly crisp outer layer encases a powdery softness that melts in the mouth.
Historical records suggest that when Chinese migrants arrived in then Malaya, they brought with them several culinary styles, among them Hakka, Hainan, Foochow, Canton and others. One style of cooking which metamorphosed out of these 'prototypes' is known today as Nyonya or Peranakan cuisine, a combination of Chinese and Malay flavours.
A crunchy and aromatic dish concocted of mixed vegetables infused in a rich and spicy gravy garnished with crushed groundnuts. This dish acts as an appetiser in any meal. It adds zest to a plain dish of 'economy' fried bee hoon.
Nyonya Acar Hu is one of my favourite acar options that can truly whet one's appetite. Mum has been making this savoury delight for as long as I can remember. Its appetising flavours can be appreciated with a plate of steamed white rice.
This dish is like no other, combining a beautiful balance of sweet and sour flavours, spiced with cabai burung (bird’s eye chillies), ginger and of course, fresh turmeric. Other ingredients like shallots and garlic cloves are little preserved nuggets that complement the fish well. The deep-fried fish, given ample time to develop in the fresh turmeric vinaigrette are extremely tasty and tantalising. This is a dish that will wake up all your senses.
The first time I sampled Christopher Ong’s cooking was at a Chinese New Year open house he held many years back. Lam Mee was on the lineup and although it is an uncomplicated dish to prepare, a flavourful stock was necessary to serve up a delicious bowl. With a dollop of sambal belacan on the side, I relish the entire bowl with gusto that day. It was wonderful and had just the right combination of everything a good bowl of Lam Mee would call for. Chris also highlighted that I was eating off an authentic antique Peranakan blue and white batik bowl.