George Town World Heritage Site: The story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang

By Mark Thompson and Karl Steinberg with photographs by Adrian Cheah

Walk between two of George Town’s most famous landmarks with this illustrated guide. Discover the story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang and explore some of the community’s fascinating characters, customs, architecture and events.

For as long as it has existed, George Town in Penang has attracted travellers and settlers from across the globe and is a true confluence of cultures. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site continues to enchant visitors with its traditional charm and its well-preserved historical townscape.

The elegant Nyonya kebaya – wearable art that knows no seasons

"When in Rome, do as the Romans do" is an oft-quoted maxim about the importance of adapting oneself. Whether or not this bit of wisdom was known to the early Chinese immigrants to Malaysia, some of them eventually married the local folk and adopted Malay customs while remaining quintessentially Chinese in belief and philosophy. The result of this union was the Chinese Peranakan (more commonly known as Babas and Nyonyas), a unique cultural hybrid with a cosmopolitan persona that flourished for centuries throughout Malaysia.

Comforting ark bak (duck meat) koay teow th'ng

Loh Kei Duck Meat Koay Teow Th’ng finds its home at the side wing of the State Chinese (Penang) Association (SCPA) on Perak Road. Just across the way, Ang Hoay Loh Restaurant occupies the other wing.

Discovering the versatility of the mangosteen, the "queen of fruits"

Penang is widely acclaimed as a food paradise, renowned not only for its delectable street food and authentic Nyonya cuisine but also for its eclectic mix of foreign flavours. During fruit seasons, Penang is celebrated for its famous Balik Pulau durians as well as a variety of exotic tropical fruits including rambutans, mangosteens, cempedak (jackfruit) and langsat.

Types of durians I am crazy about

Different people crave different varieties of durians. However, I truly relish durians from older trees as they bear fruits that have buttery-smooth, thick and creamy flesh, often with a stronger "fragrance" and flavour. Even from the same tree, durians can vary from season to season as the trees are influenced by soil conditions and weather. Over different seasons, the Or Chi (Black Thorn) fruits do not necessarily taste the same.

Gustoso By The Beach: celebrating authentic Italian cuisine

"Gustoso", translates to "tasty" in English. True to its name, the restaurant offers delectable Italian cuisine ranging from antipasti to risotti and from pasta dishes to seafood delights. Situated at the prestigious 5-star PARKROYAL Penang Resort along the famed Batu Ferringhi beach, the restaurant welcomed its first guests in 2019. Under the leadership of Sardinian Head Chef Gianmario Bassu (fondly known as Chef Mario), Gustoso flourished. The menu he curated is still cherished today. Although Chef Mario completed his tenure (2019 – 2022) at PARKROYAL in Penang, his legacy lives on through his well-trained staff, who continue to uphold his culinary techniques and maintain the quality and flavours of his creations.

My Kebaya shirt – a journey where novelty meets sublime beauty

Having grown up in a Chinese Peranakan household, I have always been intrigued by the beauty of the kebaya. It is not just about how the entire ensemble – when matched with a traditional floral sarong is wearable art, one that gives a veritable statement on the opulent cultural heritage of the Nyonyas.

The durian burger, a journey of discovery

I am game for all things durian. Durian egg tarts are delicious. Homemade durian ice cream is such a sinful treat, especially eaten with crispy kuih kapit (love letters). Passion Heart Cafe bakes one-of-a-kind Fresh Cream Durian Cake; it is a sponge cake layered with fresh cream and creamy durian paste, topped with durian kaya (coconut jam). This is one of my favourite cakes at the cafe.

The exotic hairy fruit called the rambutan

In the vast range of local fruits available in Penang, the rambutan is a popular choice among Penangites. Rambutans are tied up in bunches of 50 or 100 each and sold at roadside stalls, at marketplaces and by some fruit vendors when in season. Prices vary according to size and quality. Rambutans sold in Penang are always fresh as they come straight from the local orchards.

Durian, the sensational "King of the Fruits"

“You should wash your hands using water poured over the inside chambers of a hollowed durian skin. It will remove the strong odour from your fingers", urged Mr Teh, my neighbour who accompanied me on a durian feast at one of the many durian orchards in Balik Pulau. That morning, we had a satisfying breakfast like no other, amidst the natural surroundings of the orchard, shaded by towering durian trees.

Stitching Through Hardship: A Nyonya's War-Time Chronicle

At the Church of the Assumption, nestled amidst the charming streets of George Town, the hearts of Louis Michael Martin and Emily Elizabeth Surin became forever entwined. Their love story, like a cherished melody, found its harmonious crescendo on that memorable day of 7 August 1926. Officiating their marriage was Rev. Fr. P. Lerond. The church must have looked different from what we see today as it underwent a major renovation in 1928 when two wings were added.

Appetising set meals worth exploring at Morpheus Restaurant Penang

Penangites, ever prudent, would be first in line for a good bargain. With the rising cost of goods, restaurateurs now face the daunting task of offering value-for-money meals that do not compromise on quality or presentation. At RM48+, Morpheus presents set meals with four choices for mains – two pasta dishes, a fish entrée and a chicken option. I have sampled all four and am pleased to say that Chef Andy has created not only delectable soups and main courses but also meals that are a feast for the eyes. His commitment to quality is evident in every dish, making Morpheus an ideal destination for anyone seeking to indulge in a good meal without breaking the bank.