Great Penang

Adrian Cheah loves Penang. He brings you interesting insights into the UNESCO heritage city of George Town where he calls home.

Great Penang © Adrian Cheah


The Sari: Queen of garments

sari © Adrian Cheah

The amazingly versatile sari (or saree) transcends mere fabric – it embodies the rich heritage of traditional South Asia women (and a few men) in countries such as India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Nepal. It is also a garment that covers all, yet is revealing, enchanting yet unassuming, serene yet sensuous. The sari, with its six yards or more of artistry, is a masterpiece of contradictions, seamlessly transitioning from workwear to leisure attire to a symbol of opulence, all within its elegant drapes.

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History of Little India

Little India, Penang © Adrian Cheah

This meticulously regimented network was among the earliest parts of George Town planned under the administration of Sir Francis Light, the English founder of Penang. The area is hence now referred to as the "Francis Light Grid" – a rectangular network bordered by Leith Street, Beach Street, Chulia Street and Pitt Street (now Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling).

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16 September 1963 – A Nation is Born

The Straits Times, 16 September 1963.

On the historic midnight of 16 September 1963, a profound and unforgettable chapter in our nation's story began. The birth of Malaysia was more than just a political achievement; it was the realisation of the hopes, dreams, and determination of millions across the land. From the joyful streets of Penang and the colourful festivities in Sabah and Sarawak, to the symbolic ceremonies in Singapore, we stood united in the spirit of brotherhood, ready to embrace a shared destiny.

In the words of our beloved Bapa Malaysia, Tengku Abdul Rahman Al-Haj, "we have come together through our own free will and desire in the true spirit of brotherhood and love of freedom." Let us take a step back in time and read about this historic moment published in The Straits Times on Monday, 16 September 1963.

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“Jiwa Merdeka” – embracing freedom with a unified spirit

Merdeka Day © Adrian Cheah

Malaysia's Independence Day, observed on the 31 August, is far more than a mere historical commemoration; it embodies the very soul of a nation. Known as Merdeka Day, this significant occasion marks not only the moment the country gained its freedom but also the genesis of a nation that, despite its rich diversity, strides forward as one unified people.

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Malaysians – unique and united

Malaysians © Adrian Cheah

"The melting pot or mixing bowl images do not provide an adequate picture of Penang. The kaleidoscope, with its shifting patterns of colourful pieces, overlapping sometimes to make new shapes, some larger in one frame and smaller in others, offers a better metaphor for Penang's multi-ethnic population and its changes over time." – Sarnia Hayes Hoyt Old Penang 1991

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Negaraku, a national anthem for the rakyat

Negaraku

Negaraku
Tanah tumpahnya darahku
Rakyat hidup, bersatu dan maju
Rahmat bahgia, Tuhan kurniakan
Raja kita selamat bertakhta
Rahmat bahgia, Tuhan kurniakan
Raja kita selamat bertakhta

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Jalur Gemilang – the stripes of glory

Jalur Gemilang © Adrian Cheah

Behind the simple and slightly derivative design, the Malaysian flag has, since its creation, served as a silent testament to the country's heritage and cultural mix, and upholding cherished values like freedom and justice.

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Our bold and beautiful red Bunga Raya

Bunga Raya © Adrian Cheah

Let us take a moment to reflect on the name of Malaysia's national flower, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. The word "hibiscus" originates from the Greek "hibiskos", a name given by the ancient physician Pedanius Dioscorides (c. 40–90 AD). Dioscorides, also a botanist, authored the influential De Materia Medica, a five-volume Greek encyclopedia on herbal medicine.

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"Looking After the Ashes" – unravelling the enigmatic Chinese Peranakan world of taboos and traditions

Looking After the Ashes

I usually stay away from horror stories, especially those that have blood and gore plastered all over the cover. I know that one should never judge a book by its cover. However having been an art director for more than three decades, I feel that a cover has to set the right tone and sell the book. The cover of "Looking After the Ashes" by Kopi Soh shows two wide-eyed kids, enchanted by the storyteller, enveloped with an eerie atmosphere. Picking up the book, I would not have been able to anticipate that it would be a page-turner for me.

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Penang's Cina Wayang (Chinese opera) – for gods and ghosts

Chinese opera © Adrian Cheah

Growing up in Ayer Itam in the 1970s was like living in an endless festival. The wet market was our food playground, where you could buy something delicious at any time of the day. We would show up with our own tiffin carriers and even supply our own eggs to the char koay kak lady or Pak Dollah, the mee goreng uncle, who always accepted them without batting an eyelid. Ah Heng, the rojak man, parked his cart in front of my house. He would skewer halved green mangoes with a lidi (coconut leaf stick), smothering them in thick rojak sauce and crushed peanuts, creating a truly scrumptious snack. His sliced bangkwang, topped with similar ingredients, was another of my favourite treats. When Ah Heng eventually pivoted from rojak to koay teow th'ng, it was a welcomed change. His bowl of noodles was packed with minced pork, pork slices, liver, fish balls and topped with bak yu phok (fried lard) and spring onions.

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My Kebaya shirt – a journey where novelty meets sublime beauty

Kebaya shirt © Adrian Cheah

Having grown up in a Chinese Peranakan household, I have always been intrigued by the beauty of the kebaya. It is not just about how the entire ensemble – when matched with a traditional floral sarong is wearable art, one that gives a veritable statement on the opulent cultural heritage of the Nyonyas.

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Bedak sejuk, a trusted beauty secret of our grandmothers

bedak sejuk © Adrian Cheah

At dusk, when women with white sceptre-like masks ventured out of their homes to purchase a snack or visit neighbours, children would gawk while adults would shrug their shoulders in indifference.

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The upside-down tree – Penang's very own Baobab

Penang's Baobab tree © Adrian Cheah

According to African legend, the Baobab wanted to become the most beautiful tree of all. When it realised that this was not possible, it put its head into the ground, so only the roots pointed heavenward. Another legend holds that when the Baobab was planted by God, it kept walking, so God pulled it up and replanted it upside down to stop it from moving.

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Bansan – a fresh take on board games and its relevance today

Bansan board game © Adrian Cheah

Board games have a long and fascinating history, dating back thousands of years to ancient civilisations such as Mesopotamia and Egypt. According to the British Museum (britishmuseum.org), the Royal Game of Ur is the oldest playable board game in the world, originating around 4,600 years ago in ancient Mesopotamia. Although they were once reserved for the elite, over time, board games evolved and spread across different cultures, becoming more accessible and popular among people from all walks of life.

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"Inspirations from the Southeast – Penang, Malaysia" is a compelling documentary that deeply touches the heart

Inspirations from the Southeast – Penang, Malaysia

On 23 July 2003, I attended the documentary screening of "Inspirations from the Southeast – Penang, Malaysia" at GSC Cinema in Gurney Drive. This was the last of three screenings, part of George Town Festival and admission was free!

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Timothy Tye's journey: preserving Penang Hokkien through an online dictionary

Penang Hokkien dictionary

I am filled with immense pride to witness the presence of unsung heroes in Penang, individuals driven by a shared belief in uplifting their community. Among them stands Timothy Tye, a beacon of inspiration. Since its inception on 5 January 2003, his Penang Travel Tips website has provided invaluable information on Penang (now extended to cover Malaysia as well as Singapore). Timothy is not only a prominent foodie and YouTuber but is also a passionate advocate for the preservation of Penang Hokkien.

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Sembang-sembang with Tan Choon Hoe, author of Loghat Hokkien Pulau Pinang 

Tan Choon Hoe

Malaysians are truly fortunate, as they have gained a reputation for their remarkable linguistic versatility. Let us consider my late father as an example, who was of Chinese descent and possessed a remarkable fluency in various languages and dialects. He could effortlessly converse in English, Bahasa Malaysia, Tamil, Hindustani, Mandarin, Cantonese and of course, Hokkien.

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Nyonya kasut manek (beaded shoes) – timeless objects of beauty

Nyonya beaded shoes © Adrian Cheah

English influence

The British presence in the three Straits Settlement states had a profound influence on Peranakan culture. Suddenly, the hitherto unknown suits and skirts became à la mode for men and women respectively.

Western techniques also influenced the art and craft of fashioning Peranakan footwear. The style of embroidery, for example, once influenced by the Malays was in turn influenced by Western culture. The fine beadwork for shoes with which the Nyonya is identified is a comparatively recent invention from 19th century Britain and Continental Europe.

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The many uses of the "horse racing" calendar

Horse racing calendar © Adrian Cheah

Introduction

It is relatively easy to know which day of the week it is. Similarly, we can more or less tell the time of day merely by looking outside the window. But how many of us can tell the date without referring to a calendar?

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The floral bath (mandi bunga) ritual

floral bath © Adrian Cheah

The Russian musician Igor Stravinsky might have composed Le Sacre du Printemps (The Rites of Spring) as an exploration of nature and the rituals of renewal and sacrifice, but one could safely conjecture that the ritual and ceremony of the Malaysian floral bath was created for more personal (and less lofty) reasons. The two may be worlds apart, but both Stravinsky and the local bomoh share one thing – invoking the power and the mystery of nature and the elements in their work.

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The 32nd International Baba Nyonya Convention in Malacca

Baba Nyonya Convention © Adrian Cheah

Sadhguru (Jaggi Vasudev), an influential yogi cautioned that the more we identify with something – religion, gender, race, ideology, money, et cetera – the more we will defend it, some even with our lives. Having said that, most of us feel the need to identify with things we hold dear, be it our family, heritage or even our social media status.

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