Having a reputation as a food paradise, be it haute cuisine, or cuisine bourgeoise (hawker fare), Penang offers a heady and exotic mix of delicious cuisine to choose from.
In a word, Penang food is both famous and fabulous. When people mention Penang food, they are more often than not referring to hawker food and coffee shop dining. It is true that some of the hype is overblown but it cannot be denied that Penang is home to many uniquely delicious chow. Ironically, hawkers in other states or towns have been known to pull the crowd by simply advertising their food as hailing from Penang, regardless of its authenticity or quality. Then there are the Penang hawkers who advertise their cuisine as specialties from another state, like Johor bak kut teh, Ipoh chicken and bean sprouts or laksa Kedah. In short, an infinite variety of dishes are yours to savour – all you need to do is pick and choose.
Penang hawker food can be broken down roughly into several varieties, with each being attributable to Penang's multi-cultural character: Nyonya, Chinese, vegetarian, Indian, Malay, Hakka-styled Western, seafood and desserts. Hybrids are also known to exist, and some famous examples are Malay-style chicken rice and char koay teow, and Chinese satay and nasi lemak. The prices are cheap and reasonable.
With fishing being a major economic activity on the island, Penang is naturally a haven for seafood, and a handful of restaurants have already achieved legendary status among locals and foreigners. Tucked away in remote corners, these eateries are not easy to find without local guidance but are definitely worth the extra effort to seek out.
Desserts play a major role in Penang gastronomy. There are as many varieties as there are races in Penang! To mention a few would do injustice to the rest, so you would just have to let your nose and eyes be your guide. A word of warning though – most local desserts tend to be sweet and rich, as coconut milk, flour and sugar are the main ingredients.
Thanks to early Chinese migrants, Chinese cuisine ranges from Cantonese to Teochew to Hokkien to Hainanese to Szechuan cooking. There's also Penang Nyonya food, which is a combination of Chinese, Malay and some Thai. The Penang variety of Nyonya food, apparently, is different from the Malaccan or even Singaporean versions. For a touch of luxury, try a five or ten-course Chinese meal at one of the restaurants or hotels in town.
Indian cuisine goes by two names generally – banana leaf rice and nasi kandar. Both are hot and savoury with rice being the main staple, and a menu from north Indian tandoori and nan bread, to South Indian rice and chapati.
Nasi kandar is famously popular with Penangites, and many restaurants selling it are well known not only to those on the island but those in other states as well. It is quite common to find people from other states detouring to Penang just to stop for a meal of nasi kandar before continuing on their journey elsewhere...
Indulge! Savour!
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah © All rights reserved
Updated: 6 March 2019
Le Dux Patisserie – where passion rises with the dough
At the quiet break of dawn, while the city still slumbers, a warm glow begins to stir behind the glass walls of Le Dux Patisserie in upper Beach Street. By 5:00 am, Chef Belle Tan Phey Phey, a maître pâtissière, is already gently coaxing butter into layers of delicate croissant dough – a ritual she repeats each day (except on off days). It is here, in the heart of George Town, that craft meets care in the art of French pastry.
Thanks to Nazlina Hussin, I had the opportunity to attend an intimate food tasting session at Siam Social, a stylish new restaurant and bar on Noordin Street. We were welcomed by Calvin Lim, a former banker who has transitioned into the restaurant scene with a creative flair for interior design and a thoughtful appreciation for good food. The menu offers an interesting mix of Western fare infused with Northern Thai influences, including items ranging from pastas and pizzas to more regionally inspired dishes. To make selection easier, the menu also includes set items for both individuals and groups.
A beautifully sublime birthday celebration at Au Jardin
If love could be gift-wrapped, I would have done so in a heartbeat – for no one deserves it more than Mum, who turned 91 this year. As a close second, I picked up my brush and painted a portrait of her – my lifelong muse, the woman whose gentle faith in me never wavered. She saw the spark of creativity in my childhood sketches, in the dresses I once designed just for her to tailor and in the kitchen, where she taught me to cook from a young age, nurturing my early interest with patience and pride.
My daughter Jean and I had a good luncheon at Tsukiji Sushi Bar, located at City Junction, Penang. The open-kitchen concept allowed us to watch the chefs at work, showcasing their precision and artistry. This reflects the "shokunin" spirit – a Japanese philosophy of lifelong dedication to mastering one’s craft, where even the simplest dishes are continuously refined. As a creative soul, I have always been drawn to Japanese restaurants, where each dish is presented on exquisite utsuwa (ceramic ware), enhancing its colours and textures. At Tsukiji Sushi Bar, freshness and flavour are celebrated alongside beauty and tradition.
From the moment we stepped into Wanori – the Handroll Bar, my daughter Jean and I were drawn in by the open-theatre kitchen concept – a front-row invitation to witness culinary artistry in motion. Seated at the bar, we watched as Chef Sitthiporn Kesngern (Chef Mo) and his team prepared our orders, transforming simple ingredients into exquisite bites. Wanori specialised in handrolls but sashimi and signature donburi were also on the menu among others. With its vibrant energy and focus on premium ingredients, it offered a fresh take on casual bar dining and we were simply excited.
The warm midday sun filtered through the colonial windows of Beach St. Bistrot, casting shifting patterns of light across its charming interior. Outside, the afternoon blazed with tropical intensity, making it all the more refreshing to step into the cool embrace of the air-conditioned restaurant. Though my birthday had passed weeks ago, the celebrations continued – this time over a leisurely luncheon with my dear old friend, Auck Seng.
Recently, I dined at several popular restaurants in Penang, only to leave rather disappointed. Despite their Instagram-worthy interiors and bustling dining halls, the food often fell short – mediocre offerings served at steep prices. Even with my trusty mirrorless Nikon in hand, I found no inspiration to photograph the experiences; they simply were not worth capturing.
Penang, a haven for food lovers, serves up a sedap-licious escapade like no other, from street food stalls brimming with local delights to high-end fine dining restaurants, not forgetting cosy patisseries and bustling pubs. But when it comes to an izakaya, there is something inherently different – a taste of Japan served with a side of its rich cultural essence, much like how an Irish pub offers more than just a pint.
For those who appreciate bold and exciting flavours, Thai cuisine is sure to captivate. Known for its delicate balance of sweet, sour, salty and spicy notes, it offers a vibrant culinary experience. From aromatic herbs to fiery spices, each creation takes your palate on a fantastical journey. In Penang, the availability of Thai food stalls and restaurants assures you will be spoilt for choice.
Third Culture Penang offers a "seasonal" menu that draws from the fresh ingredients of Penang and neighbouring states, skilfully prepared by Chef Khor Sue Ching. She deploys French cooking techniques learnt from L’Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, France. However, most of her culinary skills were honed not in classrooms, but in the actual kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants. Learning about this, I eagerly anticipated creative flavours paired with exciting new culinary combinations for a delightful dining experience.
Penangites, ever prudent, would be first in line for a good bargain. With the rising cost of goods, restaurateurs now face the daunting task of offering value-for-money meals that do not compromise on quality or presentation. At RM48+, Morpheus presents set meals with four choices for mains – two pasta dishes, a fish entrée and a chicken option. I have sampled all four and am pleased to say that Chef Andy has created not only delectable soups and main courses but also meals that are a feast for the eyes. His commitment to quality is evident in every dish, making Morpheus an ideal destination for anyone seeking to indulge in a good meal without breaking the bank.
"Gustoso", translates to "tasty" in English. True to its name, the restaurant offers delectable Italian cuisine ranging from antipasti to risotti and from pasta dishes to seafood delights. Situated at the prestigious 5-star PARKROYAL Penang Resort along the famed Batu Ferringhi beach, the restaurant welcomed its first guests in 2019. Under the leadership of Sardinian Head Chef Gianmario Bassu (fondly known as Chef Mario), Gustoso flourished. The menu he curated is still cherished today. Although Chef Mario completed his tenure (2019 – 2022) at PARKROYAL in Penang, his legacy lives on through his well-trained staff, who continue to uphold his culinary techniques and maintain the quality and flavours of his creations.