Glorious food

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Having a reputation as a food paradise, be it haute cuisine, or cuisine bourgeoise (hawker fare), Penang offers a heady and exotic mix of delicious cuisine to choose from.

In a word, Penang food is both famous and fabulous. When people mention Penang food, they are more often than not referring to hawker food and coffee shop dining. It is true that some of the hype is overblown but it cannot be denied that Penang is home to many uniquely delicious chow. Ironically, hawkers in other states or towns have been known to pull the crowd by simply advertising their food as hailing from Penang, regardless of its authenticity or quality. Then there are the Penang hawkers who advertise their cuisine as specialties from another state, like Johor bak kut teh, Ipoh chicken and bean sprouts or laksa Kedah. In short, an infinite variety of dishes are yours to savour – all you need to do is pick and choose.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Penang hawker food can be broken down roughly into several varieties, with each being attributable to Penang's multi-cultural character: Nyonya, Chinese, vegetarian, Indian, Malay, Hakka-styled Western, seafood and desserts. Hybrids are also known to exist, and some famous examples are Malay-style chicken rice and char koay teow, and Chinese satay and nasi lemak. The prices are cheap and reasonable.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

With fishing being a major economic activity on the island, Penang is naturally a haven for seafood, and a handful of restaurants have already achieved legendary status among locals and foreigners. Tucked away in remote corners, these eateries are not easy to find without local guidance but are definitely worth the extra effort to seek out.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Desserts play a major role in Penang gastronomy. There are as many varieties as there are races in Penang! To mention a few would do injustice to the rest, so you would just have to let your nose and eyes be your guide. A word of warning though – most local desserts tend to be sweet and rich, as coconut milk, flour and sugar are the main ingredients.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Thanks to early Chinese migrants, Chinese cuisine ranges from Cantonese to Teochew to Hokkien to Hainanese to Szechuan cooking. There's also Penang Nyonya food, which is a combination of Chinese, Malay and some Thai. The Penang variety of Nyonya food, apparently, is different from the Malaccan or even Singaporean versions. For a touch of luxury, try a five or ten-course Chinese meal at one of the restaurants or hotels in town.

Penang food © Adrian Cheah

Indian cuisine goes by two names generally – banana leaf rice and nasi kandar. Both are hot and savoury with rice being the main staple, and a menu from north Indian tandoori and nan bread, to South Indian rice and chapati.

Nasi kandar is famously popular with Penangites, and many restaurants selling it are well known not only to those on the island but those in other states as well. It is quite common to find people from other states detouring to Penang just to stop for a meal of nasi kandar before continuing on their journey elsewhere...

Indulge! Savour!

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah © All rights reserved
Updated: 6 March 2019


Half Acre Restaurant, Taiwanese flavours in Penang

Half Acre Restaurant © Adrian Cheah

When you talk about Taiwanese food, fried stinky tafu, scallion pancakes, oyster vermicelli, minced pork rice and pearl milk tea come to mind. However, at Half Acre Restaurant, you will not find any of these popular Taiwanese street food. On the other hand, you would be treated to strong Taiwanese flavours that are aggressively herbal with deeply umami.

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Sea cucumbers – back to nature cures

sea cucumber © Adrian Cheah

Marine life in Malaysian waters is full of many natural wonders. Among them is the humble sea cucumber. Locally, it is known as "gamat" in Malay and 'hai som' in Hokkien. It is scientifically called holothurians, a class of the phylum echinodermata.

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Traditional and avant-garde Asian cuisine at Maple Palace

Maple Palace © Adrian Cheah

Chinese New Year celebrations which last for 15 days offer an ideal time for family reunions as well as to catch up with old friends. When my classmates from Han Chiang High School decided to have a mini class reunion, Maple Palace was our top choice. The restaurant serves mouth-watering cuisine that is both traditional and avant-garde at the same time. It also offers festive Chinese New Year dishes synonymous with good luck and prosperity. On top of that, the quality of the delicacies at Maple Palace has been consistent throughout my visits in the past.

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Chinese cuisine at PUTIEN

PUTIEN restaurant © Adrian Cheah

We started our dinner at PUTIEN restaurant at Gurney Paragon Mall with the Starters Platter which had an assortment of four PUTIEN delights. They were cold pig's trotter jelly, seaweed with mini shrimps, braised pig intestine and braised bean curd. The cold dish of pig's trotter jelly topped with a dark chilli paste was packed with flavour and collagen. I enjoyed this dish very much.

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A Taste of Unity: Kuih Ee and the Winter Solstice Festival

Kuih Ee (Thong Yin) © Adrian Cheah

Traditionally, Kuih Ee ("Tong Yuen" in Cantonese) is served on special occasions such as during weddings and the Winter Solstice Festival (between 21-23 December, about a month or so before Chinese New Year). Nowadays, Kuih Ee is available daily in Penang from certain hawkers in the Pulau Tikus and Ayer Itam markets in the morning.

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Ti Kuih to sweeten the words of the Gods

Ti Kuih © Adrian Cheah

Ti Kuih (sweet sticky rice cake) in Mandarin (nian gao) literally means "year cake" which also echoes the sound of rising abundance or prosperity for the coming year.

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Japanese favourites and over 99 cocktails at Kaiden Japas Restaurant & Lounge Bar

Kaiden Japas © Adrian Cheah

Kaiden Japas Restaurant & Lounge Bar has an enticing array of Japanese cuisine, ranging from sushi and sashimi to makimono and ramen. Complementing the diverse menu is an extensive selection of cocktails, sake, wine and beers. During a recent lunch outing with my daughter, we were pleasantly surprised by the quality and flavours of the dishes we savoured together.

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Yolk – where every hour is brunch hour

Yolk © Adrian Cheah

Starting my day with a lovely breakfast has always been a priority for me, so stumbling upon Yolk's full-on brunch menu available as early as 8 am was truly exciting. On those lazy mornings when I want to skip cooking, Yolk could be one of my go-to spots. Situated in a charming heritage building along Pengkalan Weld, this cafe's first-floor location offers breathtaking views of the ferry terminal and the 11-km wide Penang Straits. It is an ideal venue to indulge in a leisurely meal while basking in the beauty of Penang and if you arrive early, to soak up the gentle morning rays.

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Lunchtime elegance – experiencing the set lunch at Suffolk House

Suffolk House © Adrian Cheah

On my 56th birthday in January, Cindy and Dorothy, two cherished friends, treated me to a scrumptious luncheon at the charming Suffolk House. This rare surviving Georgian mansion in Penang, dating back to the 1800s, stands as a historical treasure that once served as the residence for successive British governors. The beautifully-restored Anglo-Indian mansion is imbued with an extra layer of enchantment by a sprawling garden and even a running brook. The setting provided a lovely backdrop for our celebration, making the day even more special and memorable.

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Wayla Kin Authentic Thai & Western Cuisine – a hidden gem in Penang

Wayla Kin © Adrian Cheah

Wayla Kin Authentic Thai & Western Cuisine is situated in the Old Frees Association building along Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah. Here, the tantalising aromas of Thai cuisine beckon you to savour the likes of tom yum seafood, coconut crab curry, Thai green curry, fried sea bass with fish sauce (pla tod nam pla) and stir-fried glass noodles with acacia and prawns, just to name a few. It was my good friend Audrey Lim who introduced me to this hidden gem and ever since, it has held its place as one of my cherished Thai dining destinations in Penang.

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A Balinese Feast of Tradition and Taste at Nona Bali

Nona Bali © Adrian Cheah

Bali, an island province of Indonesia, lies at the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands, nestled between Java to the west and Lombok to the east. This picturesque island is famed for its vibrant culture, rich tradition of art and spirituality, intricate architectural structures, breathtaking rice terraces, pristine sandy beaches and its delicious cuisine.

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Morpheus Restaurant Penang, making culinary dreams come true

Morpheus Restaurant Penang © Adrian Cheah

Morpheus Restaurant Penang is located at Lorong Aboo Sittee in the bustling city of George Town. It first opened its doors to the public in April 2023 by head chef and owner Andy Lai. Using top quality ingredients, each dish is crafted to showcase the coupling of culinary artistry and elegance. Here is an account of my inaugural dining experience at Morpheus.

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