Mahindarama Buddhist Temple, a sanctuary in Penang where Buddhist devotion nurtures compassion
In the quiet hush of a cold morning at the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial, I stood amidst the lingering mist, each breath a visible puff in the air. I saw hills of shoes, silent witnesses to lives extinguished. Then came the photographs, frozen in time, capturing emaciated bodies, hollow eyes, and unspeakable suffering. I stepped into the remnants of the gas chambers, where silence screamed louder than words. The chill was no longer just physical; it was emotional, moral, spiritual. It was a searing reminder of the horrors man can inflict on his fellow human beings. The hatred. The cruelty. The machinery of death carried out with cold precision.
I visited Dachau, Germany in the autumn of 1996 yet the tremendous sadness I felt remains as fresh as yesterday. That morning, the place was desolate, with only our tour group members moving through its silent, ashen grounds, as if the earth itself were still in mourning after all these years.
Fast forward to 2025: I found myself walking through the grounds of the Mahindarama Buddhist Temple on Kampar Road, Penang for the very first time. The air buzzed with excitement as preparations for the upcoming Vesak Day celebrations unfolded. However, the moment I stepped into the inner chamber of the main shrine hall, the mood shifted. I was enveloped by a serene, almost sacred stillness. I sat, took in a deep, slow breath and as I exhaled, a humbling sense of peace settled within me.
It is the same species, homo sapiens, that constructed the gas chambers at Dachau and this sanctuary of compassion in Penang. And I find myself pondering: Can we truly know what love is without losing it? Can we appreciate happiness without first tasting sorrow, or truly understand peace without having lived through oppression and suffering? At 57, I now choose to believe this: although there is the seed of evil in all of us, there is also the capacity for boundless good. In the stillness of that sacred hall, surrounded by larger-than-life Buddhas and the quiet devotion of the faithful, I saw yet another side of the human coin. A place built for compassion—for healing, reflection and the kindling of inner light.
First Chief Monk: Venerable A Pemaratana Maha Thera (1918–1927)
Penang, Pearl of the Orient has long been a haven for merchants and migrants, missionaries and scholars, artists and writers, travellers and spiritual seekers. It is not just the natural beauty—the sun-kissed beaches and emerald hills—that draws people in. It is the warmth of its people, the vibrant mix of cultures and food, and the unmistakable love and pride Penangites have for the land they call home.
Left: Venerable A Pemaratana Maha Thera. Right: The humble hut at Batu Lanchang Hokkien Cemetery where he began his mission in Penang, offering sermons and spiritual guidance.
Perhaps it was this very spirit of harmony, warmth, and spiritual openness of Penang that stirred something deep within Venerable A Pemaratana Maha Thera, a learned monk from Veluvanarama Temple in Wehella, southern Ceylon. In 1918, during a brief stopover in Penang en route from Singapore to Thailand, what was meant to be a few days’ respite became a lifelong calling. Captivated by the island’s quiet magnetism, and the heartfelt devotion of its people, he chose to stay.
When he first arrived in Penang, Venerable Pemaratana began his ministry at the Batu Lanchang Hokkien Cemetery. Working closely with the local community and assuming the role of Chief Monk, he established what was then known as the Caunter Hall Buddhist Temple, comprising a monastery and a shrine hall. He also founded Sariputte, a school dedicated to the teaching of Buddhism and English. As word spread, the number of devotees steadily increased. However, because the area was flood-prone, the temple was eventually relocated.
A 1922 trust deed records the donation of land in Jelutong and Caunter Hall by MV Gregory s/o Apposhsinew, J Nichamy d/o Singho Appohamy, Lim Gaik Kim Neoh, and Khoo It Seng. In 1925, additional land at Kampar Road was gifted by MV Gregory, Lim Boon Chin, Lim Chean Saeng, Lee Swee Bee, Lim Gaik Kim, Yeah Siew Eam, and Tan Choo Lew. This site would become the future home of Mahindarama Buddhist Temple.
In 1927, Venerable Pemaratana returned from Sri Lanka with an inspired vision for the temple’s future. He brought back detailed architectural plans of a Sri Lankan-style Temple, including the design of Buddha statues in various postures as well as illustrations of the 24 past Buddhas.
Sadly, Venerable Pemaratana did not live to see his vision realised. These statues were completed years later by his successor, fulfilling the plans he had set in motion.
Most significantly on that trip, he carried back with him a sacred sapling from the revered Bodhi tree at Anuradhapura, believed to be the second generation of the original tree in Bodh Gaya, India, under which Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment.
Soon after his return, he fell gravely ill and passed away on 10 July 1927. His ashes were enshrined in a pagoda specially erected in memory of him in the compound of the Caunter Hall Buddhist Temple.
Second Chief Monk: Venerable W Sumanasara Thera (1927–1933)
Left: Venerable W Sumanasara Thera. Right: The monk's humble quarters at the Caunter Hall Buddhist Temple.
The young and resolute 25-year-old Venerable W Sumanasara Thera succeeded Venerable Pemaratana and led the temple for six years. When he took on the immense responsibility of relocating and rebuilding the Mahindarama Buddhist Temple at No. 2 Kampar Road, he had only $3,500 in hand, far short of the estimated $43,500 required for the entire building project. Yet, with unwavering faith, and laser-sharp determination, he proceeded to lay the foundation stone on 8 August 1928. Determined to raise the necessary funds, Venerable Sumanasara travelled to Burma, where he also received a generous donation of $5,000 from Madam Lim Siew Chin and her family. He then returned to Malaya and with a government permit, he visited all the states in the country, collecting an additional $12,500 from supporters. The Penang Buddhist Association, and locals also stepped in to offer financial assistance.
Engaging skilled artisans from Sri Lanka, Venerable Sumanasara oversaw the construction of the majestic main shrine hall, beautifully illustrated with intricate imagery and artistic grandeur.
In the inner chamber of the Main Shrine Hall stand four large Buddha images, each representing a different posture. At the centre of the dais sits an 11-foot Buddha in the padmasana (cross-legged) posture. This "earth-touching gesture" radiates boundless compassion for all beings and symbolises the Buddha’s triumph over the Evil One.
The 19-foot-long reclining image of the Buddha (siha-seyya) lies on a dais in front of the seated statue. This posture symbolises the Buddha’s final moments before entering Parinirvana, representing liberation from the endless cycle of birth, death, and rebirth (samsara).
A 19-foot-tall standing image of the Buddha displays the abhaya mudra—the "no fear" gesture—with the right hand raised, offering reassurance and protection. The robe drapes from his left shoulder, flowing gracefully down to the ankles. Directly opposite stands another Buddha image, also upright, holding an alms bowl in his right hand. In this depiction, the robe covers both shoulders, signifying humility, and the monastic life.
In the Main Shrine Hall, there are also statues of four of the Buddha’s foremost disciples – Arahant Sariputta, Arahant Maha Moggallana (in blue), Arahant Maha Kassapa, and Venerable Ananda.
He also ensured the building of the monks’ quarters and a dining hall with an attached kitchen. Although the temple was officially relocated in 1930, the inner chamber of the Main Shrine Hall was only opened to the public three years later in May 1933. Sadly, in July that same year, Venerable Sumanasara had to disrobe due to health reasons. He took the name Mr NVA Susuka and spent the rest of his years in quiet devotion, always helping out at the temple until his passing in 1975 at the age of 73.
Third Chief Monk: Venerable K Gunaratana Nayaka Maha Thera (1933–1964)
Left: Venerable K Gunaratana Nayaka Maha Thera. Right: Delivering a Vesak Day address in 1934.
The third Chief Monk, Venerable K Gunaratana Nayaka Maha Thera, served for over three decades—a tenure marked by visionary leadership and tireless service. A well-travelled and learned monk, he undertook goodwill tours across Malaya and Singapore. Proficient in the Buddha-Dharma and a scholar of Pali and Sanskrit, he published numerous books and brochures on Buddhism. He delivered public lectures and sermons at the temple (in Hokkien and English) as well as at venues throughout Malaya and Singapore, earning widespread recognition and respect.
During his leadership, he oversaw the painting of the 24 Buddha images and the Reclining Buddha in the Main Shrine, the construction of a small pagoda at the rear upper section of the temple building, and a lecture hall.
The Buddha Relic Chamber is housed within the Pagoda (Stupa or Dagaba). The relic, believed to be a minute particle of the Buddha’s corporeal remains, is enshrined along with other valuable articles in a miniature silver pagoda-shaped casket, embedded in a square chamber. The construction of the Pagoda was made possible through a RM1,000 donation by Madam Lim Siew Eng in 1933.
The spread on pages 41–42 of the 85th Anniversary Commemorative Coffee Table Book of the Mahindarama Buddhist Temple features a collage of photographs documenting the very first Wesak Day procession in Penang.
In April 1949, a memorial signed by 229 Buddhist organisations and individuals from across the Federation was submitted to the High Commissioner, appealing for Wesak Day to be recognised as a public holiday. On 28 April, a press announcement confirmed that, for the first time in the nation’s history, Wesak Day, which fell on 12 May that year, would be observed as a public holiday in Penang, Malacca, and several other states. That same year, Penang witnessed its first Wesak Day procession, beginning at the Mahindarama Buddhist Temple and concluding at the Penang Buddhist Association. The strong support of Venerable Gunaratana was instrumental in establishing what has now become an annual tradition in Penang.
In 1952, he welcomed and mentored the young Venerable K. Sri Dhammananda, who would later become a towering figure in Malaysian Buddhism. In 1955, Venerable Gunaratana was conferred the high ecclesiastical title of Chief Sangha Nayaka for Malaya and Singapore, in recognition of his leadership and commitment to the spread of the Dhamma. That same year, in August 1955, he was awarded the title Dharmakirti Sri, conferred at the historic Chapter House at Malwatta, Kandy, Sri Lanka.
Under his guidance, the temple flourished as a centre of learning and community service. He spearheaded numerous charitable and welfare initiatives for the poor, the aged, and the disabled. In 1957, he inaugurated the temple to further support the Resident Monks in carrying out Buddhist activities. That same year, he established a library, followed by a school in 1959, to nurture both spiritual and academic learning.
Although he passed away in 1964 at the age of 73, his legacy endures. In 1990, the Gunaratana Memorial Library was dedicated in his honour. His contributions were also recognised by the Penang State Government, which named a road after him—Jalan Gunaratana (postcode 10460)—ensuring that his name lives on in the area he served so faithfully.
Fourth Chief Monk: Venerable MA Sri Dhammadinna Upananada Maha Thera (1965–1974)
Left: Venerable MA Sri Dhammadinna Upananada Maha Thera. Middle: H.E. Mr William Gopallewa, the former President of Sri Lanka presenting the Bell to Ven. P. Pemaratana Nayaka Maha Thera (middle) in Colombo, 1969.
The temple continued to grow under the guidance of successive chief monks. Venerable MA Sri Dhammadinna Upananada Maha Thera served as Chief Monk from 1965 to 1974. A learned Sri Lankan monk educated at Vidyodaya College, he was well-versed in Pali, Sanskrit, English, and Sinhalese. Having first arrived in Penang in 1933 as a resident monk, he returned to lead the temple with dedication, actively preaching in Taiping, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore.
In 1967, under his leadership and with the support of devotees and a RM20,000 grant from the Penang State Government, the Dining Hall, Meditation Hall, Preceptors’ Rooms, and Monks’ Quarters were built. On 30 January 1971, a 40-foot bell tower was completed, housing a 250-pound bell gifted by the Sri Lankan Government.
After disrobing, Mr NVA Susuka (the temple’s Second Chief Monk) remained devoted to its growth. In 1970, he formed the Dana Fund Committee, enrolling 50 members within months. His proposal led to the registration of Pertubohan Mahindarama Buddhist on 18 February 1972, now the temple’s official managing body. A Dayaka Fund was also set up to support temple upkeep and the monks' needs.
On 4 September 1974, Venerable Dhammadinna passed away peacefully at the age of 77. His funeral was attended by about sixty Buddhist monks and dignitaries from near and far, as well as many Penangites whose lives he had touched.
Fifth Chief Monk: Venerable Sri SV Pandit Pemaratana Nayaka Maha Thera (1974–1995)
Later that same year, Venerable Sri SV Pandit Pemaratana Nayaka Maha Thera was appointed the temple’s fifth Chief Monk. Though formally appointed in 1974, Venerable Pemaratana’s contributions began much earlier. In 1959, he founded the Mahindarama Sunday Pali School with just 35 students. Within three short years, student enrolment had surged to around 200.
Left: Venerable Sri SV Pandit Pemaratana Nayaka Maha Thera. Right: On 4 February 1962, the Mahindarama Sunday Pali School formed a Buddhist Carol Group—among the first of its kind in the region.
During the tenure of Venerable Pemaratana, significant improvements were made to the temple’s infrastructure. These included the extensions to the monks' quarters and dining hall as well as the installation of a new drainage system within the temple grounds (1976), the re-roofing of the main shrine hall (1979), and the construction of a three-tier arch gateway at the temple entrance (1981).
The three-tiered arch, although envisioned in 1975, was only erected and finally launched on 24 October 1981. It symbolises the three foundations of Enlightment—Dāna (generosity), Sila (morality) and Bhāvanā (mental cultivation) and at the pinnacle signifying the ultimate goal is Nibbāna. Right: The centenary souvenir book cover featuring the arch prominently.
A major milestone came on 24 February 1991, when Wisma Mahinda, a three-storey multi-purpose building, was officially opened after 21 months of construction, costing RM680,000. The new building houses the K. Gunaratana Memorial Library, the 8-Preceptors’ Room, Mahindarama Sunday Pali School, A. Pemaratana Hall and an Audio Visual Room.
In August 1976, the K. Gunaratana Memorial Library was established in memory of the late Venerable Gunaratana. By May 1989, the library found a new home on the ground floor of Wisma Mahinda and in 2018, it underwent a major modernisation, including the adoption of a cloud-based cataloguing system, enhancing accessibility for the next generation of readers and learners.
Left: An archival photo of the original library. Middle: Wisma Mahinda today houses the K. Gunaratana Memorial Library. On 22 May 1993, YAB Tan Sri Dr Koh Tsu Koon, then Chief Minister of Penang, presented the library with RM10,000 worth of Dhamma books. Right: Present-day views of the library.
Sixth Chief Monk: Venerable (Dr) Elgiriye Indaratana Maha Thera (1995–1995)
Born in 1954, Venerable Indaratana entered monastic life at age 11 and received higher ordination in 1975 under the Malwatta Chapter of the Siamese tradition. He began serving at Mahindarama Temple in 1977, remaining until 1989 and returned in 1995 as Chief Monk.
Under Venerable Indaratana’s leadership, compassion became the hallmark of Mahindarama. In 1996, he founded the Amata Free Medical Centre to provide free healthcare to the underprivileged, regardless of background. The medical centre expanded in 1999 with a diabetic division, followed by dental, eye care and traditional massage services in 2003. It also organised regular blood donation drives, health camps, exercise sessions and wellness talks. Inspired by its success, a sister centre was later established in Sri Lanka.
On 11 April 1999, the Mahindarama Sarana Old Folks’ Home opened its doors to care for the poor and homeless, starting with just two residents at a temporary space generously offered by devotee Madam Tay Poh Choo at 720-T Hong Seng Estate. A year later, the Triple Management Committee secured a permanent premises at No. 11, Jalan Gunaratana to house both the old folks’ home and the Amata Free Medical and Diabetic Centre. The new facility was officially opened on 1 January 2001.
A significant milestone was achieved in 2001 when Mahindarama Buddhist Temple became the first in Malaysia to house the sacred relics of the Buddha. Venerable Indaratana led a 50-member delegation to Sravasti in North India, where his revered teacher, Venerable Dr K Chandaratana, Chief Priest of the Sravasti Temple, entrusted him with two bone relics of the Enlightened One. Upon their return, the sacred relics were enshrined in the temple’s main prayer hall, drawing over 50,000 devotees and monks during a week-long exhibition. To honour and preserve these holy relics, a special Buddha Relics Chamber was constructed in the outer sanctum of the Main Shrine Hall in April that same year.
Venerable Indaratana also spearheaded the establishment of the 8.7-acre Mahindarama Retreat Centre in Balik Pulau, nestled amidst hills and lush greenery. Officially launched in 2015, the first retreat was held on 16 January 2016. Over the years, the retreat centre saw further development, including a dedicated parking bay, new kutis (monastic huts), landscaped grounds, and upgrades to the main building to enhance its facilities. To further complement this initiative, construction of the five-storey Mahindarama Meditation Centre at 17, Lorong Hijau 5 began in 2017. Designed as a modern sanctuary for urban dwellers seeking spiritual refuge, this state-of-the-art meditation centre was officially opened on 21 July 2019. Together, these two venues have significantly expanded Mahindarama Buddhist Temple’s outreach, offering conducive spaces for both lay practitioners and monastics to deepen their meditation practice and spiritual growth.
In 2003, a 284-page coffee table book titled "Mahindarama Buddhist Temple – 85 Years of History (1918–2003)" was published, elegantly chronicling the temple’s milestones and legacy for posterity. Measuring 10 by 10 inches, the pictorial volume features hundreds of archival and contemporary photographs, offering readers a richly visual journey through the temple’s growth.
During his tenure as Chief Incumbent, the temple launched numerous important initiatives to benefit both devotees and fellow Penangites. Beyond Penang, Mahindarama’s commitment to humanitarian service was powerfully demonstrated in the aftermath of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. The temple mobilised resources and coordinated relief efforts, extending compassionate aid to affected communities in Sri Lanka.
After a quarter of a century of transformative leadership as Chief Monk, Venerable Indaratana passed away on 27 May 2020 at the age of 66. During his tenure, he spearheaded numerous impactful initiatives, particularly in the realm of community welfare. In a final act of giving, he announced in May 2018 his intention to donate his body to Universiti Malaya for scientific and medical research. Even in death, he wished to continue serving humanity, a rare and noble gift from a humble Buddhist monk whose life was dedicated to the well-being of others.
Seventh Chief Monk: Venerable Rev. Suriyawewa Dhammawansha Thero (2020–present)
A devotee offers a robe to Venerable Suriyawewa. Did you know that a Buddhist monk typically owns only two sets of robes, and sometimes a third when travelling? This simplicity reflects the monk’s commitment to a life of renunciation and minimalism, as taught in the Vinaya (monastic code).
Since assuming the role of Chief Monk in 2020, Venerable Suriyawewa Dhammawansha Thero has continued to uphold Mahindarama’s legacy of spiritual cultivation and compassionate outreach. Did you know that Mahindarama Buddhist Temple houses its own Information Centre, offering guided tours and insightful explanations about the temple’s history, architecture, and spiritual significance? Beyond this, its commitment to social welfare is evident through several key initiatives. A Legal Aid Division provides free legal counselling to the underprivileged, while the Mitta for Life Cancer Counselling Centre lends moral and emotional support to cancer patients and their caregivers.
The Sariputta Community Service Centre, located at No. 19, Solok Terengganu was established on 3 October 2004. It hosts a broad spectrum of programmes, from tuition classes and chanting sessions to health-oriented activities such as yoga and cosmic energy healing. Meanwhile, the Mahindarama Bhojana Kitchen, launched on 7 July 2016, serves free vegetarian meals to the needy.
On one of the most significant festivals for Buddhists, Vesak Day, the temple transforms into a vibrant hub of devotion, reflection, and jubilation. On the eve of the celebration, the temple often hosts a candle-lighting ceremony with thousands of candles illuminating the grounds, accompanied by a Dhamma talk, chanting session, dinner dāna, fundraising efforts, and special blessings.
On Vesak Day itself, in the quiet pre-dawn hours, the celebration begins with the traditional offering of milk rice, followed by the observance of the Eight Precepts by lay practitioners. A breakfast dāna is then served, and a vibrant food fair unfolds on the temple grounds, drawing throngs of devotees and visitors in support of the temple’s many charitable outreach efforts.
As evening sets in, devotees gather once more to participate in Penang’s annual Vesak Day Float Procession, organised by the Malaysian Buddhist Association, making its way through the streets of George Town.
Today, under the compassionate guidance of Venerable Suriyawewa, Mahindarama Buddhist Temple continues to thrive as a beacon of Theravāda Buddhism in Penang, offering spiritual refuge, community support, and a legacy of loving-kindness.
As I write this story, I have come to realise the importance of mindfulness; to pause, reflect, and look within ourselves for the opportunities to do good each day, to bring light into the lives of those in our inner circle, and to make a meaningful impact in the community we live in. Like the century-old Mahindarama Buddhist Temple, Penang is indeed blessed that Venerable Pemaratana made the conscious decision to remain here in 1918, a reminder that compassion knows no boundaries, and that a single life devoted to service can transform generations that follow.
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All Rights Reserved
10 May 2025
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Mahindarama Buddhist Temple
2, Jalan Kampar, Taman Kampar, 10460 Penang
T: +604–282 5944
Open 9:00 am – 12.00 noon, 1:30 pm – 5:00 pm daily
PS: Mahindarama Buddhist Temple is also known among locals as “Gu-Leng Hood” or the Milk Buddha Temple in Hokkien. During exam season, students often throng the temple seeking blessings to calm their nerves and gain the confidence to do well. This tradition is linked to the story of Sujata, a young woman who offered milk rice to the Bodhisatta (the Buddha-to-be) during his final quest for enlightenment. After accepting her offering, the Bodhisatta resolved not to rise until he attained Buddhahood. In a similar spirit, students offer milk as a symbolic act of aspiration and determination.