A beautifully sublime birthday celebration at Au Jardin
If love could be gift-wrapped, I would have done so in a heartbeat – for no one deserves it more than Mum, who turned 91 this year. As a close second, I picked up my brush and painted a portrait of her – my lifelong muse, the woman whose gentle faith in me never wavered. She saw the spark of creativity in my childhood sketches, in the dresses I once designed just for her to tailor and in the kitchen, where she taught me to cook from a young age, nurturing my early interest with patience and pride.
In Penang, a city blessed with no shortage of dining options, I found myself facing a familiar conundrum: where could I take Mum – a remarkable Nyonya cook in her own right – is never simple. Her sugee cake is legendary within the family, and her palate, refined by a lifetime of travel and an enduring love for good food, sets a high bar, a very high bar. This year, I carefully selected Au Jardin, a restaurant that has earned its Michelin Star not through grandeur, but through quiet brilliance.
At the heart of Au Jardin is Chef Su Kim Hock, whose approach – La Cuisine Naturelle – embraces the natural essence of every ingredient: sourcing locally, cooking thoughtfully and plating with the grace of French artistry. His dégustation menu reflects not just technical skill, but thoughtfulness and ingenuity.
I feel privileged to have known Chef Kim Hock for many years. For this special occasion, I placed my trust in him to curate a procession of carefully orchestrated courses – each one artfully presented and prepared with care – for a birthday celebration I hoped would honour my beloved Mum.
Although my maternal grandfather had French ancestry, the culinary traditions from that side of the family were never passed down. When Grandpa married Granny, a local, he embraced the flavours of his new home and the cooking techniques of his heritage quietly faded. Mum never learnt the cuisine of her father’s lineage, nor was she exposed to Parisian flavours growing up.
But as I listened to The Joe Rogan Experience recently, in a fascinating conversation with Ben Lamm – founder of Colossal Biosciences – a spark was lit. Colossal is leading a revolutionary effort to bring back extinct animals, from the majestic woolly mammoth to lost species of wild wolves, using the genetic blueprints hidden in preserved DNA. It is not science fiction anymore; it is science unfolding in real time. What struck me was not just the ambition to restore lost species – it was the idea that DNA carries far more than we once imagined. If entire animals can be resurrected from ancient genes, might it also be true that memory, instinct and ancestral knowledge live on in us too?
Perhaps that might explain why Mum, though never trained in French cuisine, moves through a kitchen with such ease – as if guided by an instinct intuitively passed down through generations. That night at Au Jardin, tasting delicate flavours for the first time, I wondered if something ancestral stirred within her – an echo from a lineage she never knew.
We arrived at Au Jardin, tucked at the far end of the repurposed Hin Bus Depot. The space, discreet behind a façade of corrugated metal, opened into a calm, light-filled atrium where greenery nodded gently toward the restaurant’s name – French for “in the garden". Inside, a sense of contemporary elegance prevailed: crisp white linens, soothing hues and an open kitchen offering glimpses of chefs in their element.
As we settled into our seats, an excitement filled the air – the kind that comes before a much-anticipated performance. The culinary journey began with a trio of amuse-bouches, each a lovely revelation. The first amuse-bouche was a dainty seaweed tartlet, filled with finely chopped chives and horseradish, and topped with a banana sphere and a paper-thin slice of radish.
Beside it, plump Penang-cultivated mussels, smoked and encased in a crispy skin. They were deep-fried and topped with a creamy tartare sauce, dill emulsion and fresh mixed herbs. The herbs lent a bright, aromatic lift to the little parcels.
The third offering was a mushroom parfait layered with roselle and onion jam, smoked carrot balls and topped with a circular crisp shard of chicken skin dusted with nori powder. All three appetisers were dainty and beautifully crafted.
Next, thosai meets sourdough bread – an unexpected yet delicious fusion. Made with a starter maintained since the restaurant’s early days, the bread carried that familiar profile of good sourdough. Piping hot from the oven, its crisp crust encased a springy, airy centre – bold and full of character.
Beside it, what looked like a glossy heirloom tomato turned out to be a playful stroke of artistry: tomato chutney butter, creatively moulded into shape and dipped in finely ground curry leaves blended with coconut oil. Packed with flavour, it paired like a natural companion to the warm thosai bread. A pat of locally churned yoghurt butter sat nearby, quietly offering a more traditional option – though we barely glanced its way.
After that, a comforting clear golden consommé made with cuttlefish, ginger and chicken arrived at the table. Its umami richness made it a warm, soothing soup. In a good consommé, egg whites are often used to remove impurities and sediment, resulting in a crystal-clear, rich-tasting broth. Served after the bread course, it offered a gentle palate reset and a graceful transition into the heartier dishes that followed.
Since it was Mum's birthday, the chef treated us to a glass of champagne each – a thoughtful gesture that added a touch of bubbles to the celebration.
This was followed by a humble-looking cabbage dish that was anything but humble! The cabbage underwent a variety of cooking techniques – aged, charred over fire, fermented, whipped into a foam, spun into a sorbet and transformed into a crisp. At its base was a creamy white cabbage anglaise with smoked cabbage, topped with a refreshing, slightly peppery cabbage sorbet, cabbage foam and crisp pieces of cabbage. The dish showcased a brilliant interplay of textures and flavours – all drawn from a single ingredient. I absolutely loved it!
Following that, river shrimp was served alongside a delicate cauliflower farce, with a creamy shrimp roe emulsion spooned over tableside. The pickled cauliflower added a welcome brightness, providing a lively contrast to the rich flavours.
We were then presented with an intriguing interpretation of “chilli crab”, topped generously with Oscietre caviar from the Caspian Sea – one of the most prized types of caviar. At the base of the dish was a bold Szechuan pepper emulsion, topped with flesh of local mud crabs and swimmer crabs. Served on the side was a crab-shaped cracker made from prawn shell and a petite beignet rond – crisp and golden – designed to mimic the classic mantou traditionally served with chilli crab. The caviar added a silky pop and subtle brininess, elevating the luxuriousness of the dish. It was a brilliant reimagining of a familiar favourite, executed with refinement and flair.
This was a complimentary course, courtesy of the chef – though listed on the menu as an additional option priced at RM250++.
The wild-caught Semporna abalone followed, truly tender and meaty, paired with a vin jaune and thyme sauce that drew out its natural sweetness. Sharing the spotlight was a potato pavé – crisp-edged and soft within – that was simply delicious.
Then, a delicately crafted sorbet – presented like a petite cylindrical popsicle, resting atop crushed ice and a passion fruit half – was served. Made with capsicum and passion fruit, it offered a lively, tangy crunch, subtly infused with the aroma of dill. It was a refreshing pause to cleanse the palate.
Next came the duck, aged in Cognac and hay. The whole bird was first presented in a box filled with herbs and flowers, accompanied by a soft drift of smoke – a theatrical reveal delivered with unmistakable panache. After a brief moment of awe, it was carted away. When served, the duck was sliced and artfully arranged – pink and tender, its depth of flavour lifted by a gentle smokiness from the hay. Paired with fermented guava and a smooth guava purée, the dish balanced richness with a lively, tangy brightness. The gentle heat of Szechuan pepper added some oomph, while the silky blanc jus brought everything together.
What makes this dish so popular? The Cognac & Hay Aged Duck at Au Jardin undergoes a careful ageing process – dry-aged for over a week, infused with hay and Cognac, lacquered daily and roasted until the skin reaches a satisfying crispness. The result is a dish that balances bold and subtle flavours, blending local influences with global techniques. When my mum took her first bite, she closed her eyes and nodded – and in that quiet gesture, I knew. It was not just a dish; it was a thoughtful moment, a beautiful crescendo that spoke of care and craft.
Dessert was a mandarin creation – bright and refreshing. A yoghurt espuma floated above vanilla sponge, with mandarin crisps adding texture and candied ginger bringing a soft, warming note.
To conclude the meal, a quartet of petit fours arrived in a rotating cylindrical wooden case. First was a dreamy, cloud-like curry puff – pale as snow, made from spun cotton candy and filled with a Thai-inspired savoury mix reminiscent of Miang Kam. I found this to be an unusual offering for a petit fours as Miang Kam is traditionally served at the start of a Thai meal to awaken the senses with its vibrant medley of flavours. To encounter it at the end of a meal seemed unexpected.
The chocolate bon bon, infused with capsicum and vanilla was a bold yet balanced pairing that lingered pleasantly on the palate. Next to it, the coconut parfait with a mellow sweetness enriched with jaggery, while the sugar tuile and onion crisp added layers of crunch and complexity.
The final sweet bite featured Sabah’s 70 percent dark chocolate infused with mint – a bold, bittersweet square that lingered on the palate with a cool, refreshing finish. Even the wrapper with an illustration of a rabbit, was edible – a charming touch that brought the meal to a close.
Belinda Boey, the General Manager, personally attended to us throughout the evening with graciousness and great attention to detail – we are truly grateful for her warm hospitality. Each dish was introduced with clarity and care and the team’s passion shone through – not just in execution, but in the thoughtfulness they extended to both my mum and I.
The evening began with a surprise – a portrait I had painted of Mum, a small tribute to her beauty, her radiant smile and the boundless love she has given so freely. When I presented it to her, she was clearly taken aback. After a short pause, she looked at it and simply said, “bo sui” – Hokkien for “not beautiful". I will not pretend it did not sting. After months of planning and days spent bringing it to life, her words landed with unexpected weight. But that is Mum – always honest, never one to sugarcoat. Still, I know I had poured my heart into every brushstroke. The painting was my gift – a reflection of love, effort and everything unspoken.
More than a meal, that evening was a celebration of life – over nine extraordinary decades of it. What a remarkable milestone for Mum, whose fire for living still burns bright. Time has not dimmed her spirit; if anything, it has magnified her grace, curiosity, and "joie de vivre" – her zest for life’s simple pleasures. She reminds me daily that life is not just to be lived, but to be lived fully. Of all life’s blessings, none has shaped me more than the love of a mother – steadfast, generous and unconditional.
A big thank you to Chef Kim Hock and his amazing team for an extraordinary evening, where the artistry of food became a timeless language of love – a memory etched among our most treasured.
P.S. As I paid the bill, I was handed two little boxes – Hock’s Dog in the Box. Each held a tomato brioche bun, duck sausage, homemade mustard and house-pickled radish. A delightful surprise to take home that made a lovely breakfast the next morning.
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
18 April 2025
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Restaurant au Jardin
The Warehouse @ Hin Bus Depot
125 Jalan Timah, George Town, 10150, Penang
Tel : +60 12-428 9594
Open Thursday to Sunday: 11.30 am–2.30 pm, 5.30 pm-10.30 pm. Closed Monday to Wednesday.
Diners at Au Jardin are presented with two options – the chef’s dégustation menu featuring meat and seafood, or a vegetarian alternative. These artisanal menus are centred on showcasing the freshest ingredients through dishes that are both refined and imaginative, rooted in tradition yet elevated by creativity.
About Chef Su Kim Hock
Chef Su Kim Hock, the visionary behind Restaurant Au Jardin, is a leading figure in Malaysia’s evolving culinary scene. In 2023, Au Jardin was one of only four restaurants awarded a Michelin star in Malaysia’s inaugural Michelin Guide.
His craft has continued to garner international recognition. In 2024, he received a one-knife “excellent” rating at The Best Chef Awards in Dubai. In 2023, he was named Tatler Dining’s Chef of the Year and also honoured with the BURO Impact Awards 2023 – Chef of the Year for his contributions to shaping Malaysia’s contemporary dining experience.
His ventures – the Spanish tapas bar Un Poco Loco, the Japanese-inspired Shokudo Niban, the plant-based Sincere Co, and The Teochew Club – add depth and vibrancy to Penang’s ever-evolving food landscape. Beyond the kitchen, Chef Kim Hock is a passionate advocate for local farmers and artisans, championing sustainability and mentorship as key pillars of Penang’s culinary future.