Join the club – a true taste of Teochew tradition
In the heart of Pulau Tikus, where the rhythms of Penang’s past still echo through its streets, there is a place where nostalgia simmers gently over a pot of moi (plain white rice porridge). The Teochew Club, the brainchild of Chef Su Kim Hock, is more than just a late-night eatery – it is a love letter to tradition, a quiet homage to the generations of Teochew immigrants who arrived on the shores of Penang in search of a better life.
I have known Chef Kim Hock for a long time, ever since he founded Basil, Le Bistrot on Kek Chuan Road in Penang. After closing Basil, he and his team relocated to Taipei, eventually returning to Penang four and a half years later to establish Au Jardin in 2018. The restaurant, known for its sophisticated European fare with subtle local twists, earned its first Michelin star in 2022 – one of only four restaurants in Malaysia to receive the honour in the country’s inaugural Michelin Guide.
But The Teochew Club is something different – something closer to the soul. Walking into its unpretentious retro space, I am instantly transported to a time when simplicity was a virtue and comfort was found in the warmth of a familiar dish. The aroma of soy-braised pork belly, preserved mustard greens and chai por nui (preserved radish omelette) fills the air, evoking memories of shared Teochew meals – humble, nourishing and deeply rooted in tradition.
The Teochew people trace their origins to the Chaoshan region in Guangdong, China. While their distant ancestors may have migrated from northern China, centuries in Chaoshan shaped their unique identity before many later settled in Southeast Asia. Known as Chaozhou-ren (潮州人) elsewhere, they form a minority among Penang’s Chinese community. Their strong sense of kinship led to the establishment of clan houses, which served as support networks, offering aid and fostering unity among those sharing the same surname, dialect or family ties. One such institution is the Han Jiang Ancestral Temple, founded in 1855 when six Teochew pioneers acquired land on Beach Street and established Teochew Kongsee. As the community grew, the temple expanded into its present form, featuring three halls – courtyard, middle hall and rear hall. In the early 20th century, it also housed Han Chiang School, which later relocated to Ayer Itam Road, continuing the Teochew commitment to education and cultural heritage.
In many ways, The Teochew Club embodies this history – not as a place of grandeur but one of quiet resilience, a tribute to the perseverance of the people who made Penang their home. Its menu reflects this philosophy: a comforting spread of moi and classic Teochew side dishes, each prepared with exceptional quality, care and reverence for tradition. As we placed our orders, a serving of "hee ya pneah" ("biskut telinga" or cow ear cookies) arrived in a classic Chinese rooster bowl. These crispy, ear-shaped biscuits were a childhood staple for Gen X’ers like me, instantly evoking memories of primary school days. The sight of tiffin carriers and a row of biscuit tins at the reception added to the nostalgia, transporting us back to a simpler time.
That day, my friend Kooi Aun and I opted for a few of the restaurant’s specialties. One standout was the crisp-fried black pomfret, lightly dusted in flour and fried to a golden crisp, topped with a rich, flavourful sauce made from fermented brown soybeans (taucheo) and finely diced capsicums. While the exterior was wonderfully crispy, the flesh remained moist and tender.
The duck-and-taro stew arrived bubbling hot in a clay pot. The gravy was light and aromatic with coriander leaves, free from any gamy smell. Unlike the thicker, richer taro dishes I have had, this version came in a delicate broth – perfect with moi.
Another classic dish was "tau kwa char sua-nah", a simple stir-fried Teochew tofu (firmer tofu) with leeks. Here, it was prepared in its most traditional form, flavoured only with taucheo. Many variations of this dish include carrots, salted pork or shrimp, but this pared-down version allows the main ingredients to shine.
For something with a bit of heat, we added the long beans stir-fried with sambal hae bee (dried shrimp sambal), a fiery, umami-rich contrast to the meal. The chai por nui was a delightful accompaniment, with preserved radish lending a subtle salty-savoury depth while the eggs remained fluffy and tender, tying everything together beautifully.
For those looking to explore more, the menu also offers an array of soy-braised items like pork belly, tofu and pig intestines, as well as traditional side dishes such as fermented tofu, salted duck egg and preserved radish.
On our return visit, Kooi Aun and I just had to order the stir-fried roast pork with dried chillies, which came highly recommended. The pork belly was wok-tossed in a thick, caramelised soy sauce and spiced with dried chillies, delivering a bold, sweet-spicy kick – something I truly relish.
All these dishes were enjoyed with moi – grainier than Cantonese congee yet more liquid than Hokkien porridge. Each bowl of moi came with a tender orange sweet potato, a comforting touch that added a hint of natural sweetness.
What makes The Teochew Club brilliant is not just the food, but the experience – the feeling of stepping into a familiar past, of reconnecting with a heritage that, in the face of modernity, is quietly slipping away. Chef Kim Hock understands this deeply. He has always been one to let his food do the talking, preserving the essence of a dish without unnecessary embellishments. His work at The Teochew Club is not about reinvention but remembrance.
The name itself is fitting – not just a restaurant, but a “club", a gathering place where traditions are honoured. As I sit at my table, watching families gather over steaming bowls of moi, I feel a deep sense of gratitude – for those who keep these traditions alive and for chefs like Kim Hock, who show us that the simplest meals often hold the greatest comfort.
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
21 February 2025
The Teochew Club
17, Lintang Burma, Pulau Tikus, 10250 George Town, Penang
T: +6010-948 2024
Open 4:00 pm to 1:00 am daily, except Wednesdays