The smoky, savoury and succulent goodness of traditional bak kwa

Bak kwa, Hokkien for dried pork jerky, is one of the most beloved snacks during Chinese New Year and it is almost a crime not to have this truly "ho chiak" snack in your home all through the festive season. As the season approaches, roadside stalls across Penang pop up like mushrooms after a rainy day, offering not just bak kwa but also hampers, festive cookies and kam (mandarin oranges).

Originally created as a means of preserving pork and other meats, bak kwa has become a snack sensation that is practically irresistible. Thin, square slices of marinated minced pork are grilled over a charcoal fire, yielding a smoky, juicy treat rich in flavour and aroma.

Before the advent of refrigeration, preserving perishable foods was a necessity across the world. Techniques such as curing, drying and smoking were widely used, not only to prolong the shelf life of meat, fish and vegetables but also to create unique flavours that became integral to various cuisines. Bak kwa, a Chinese-style dried savoury sweetmeat, is one such culinary innovation that has gained a prominent place in Southeast Asian food culture.

The distinctive seasoning of bak kwa – soy sauce, sugar, honey, rice wine and five-spice powder – reveals its deep roots in Chinese culinary traditions. Five-spice powder, a blend of cinnamon, cloves, star anise, fennel seeds and Sichuan peppercorns, dates back to ancient China. Designed to balance the five fundamental flavours – sweet, sour, bitter, salty and umami – it reflects a culinary philosophy that embraces harmony and depth.

Bak kwa is widely believed to have originated in Fujian province, southern China, during a time when poverty made pork a luxury reserved for special occasions like the Lunar New Year. According to the South China Morning Post, thin slices of pork were marinated in a sugar and spice mixture, air-dried and cooked over a hotplate. Hokkien immigrants fleeing poverty in the early 15th century reputedly brought this delicacy to the Malay Archipelago (now Malaysia), where it evolved to suit local tastes. The Malaysian and Singaporean versions, for instance, are charcoal-grilled after air-drying, giving the meat a distinctive smoky sweetness not found in the original.

In Penang, bak kwa’s flavours have further been refined to local preferences. Today, Penang's rendition of five-spice powder (by Pok Oy Thong in Chulia Street) incorporates unique additions such as cardamom, lime peel, coriander seeds, nutmeg and pepper, enhancing the rich, layered flavours of this beloved snack.

I had the privilege of documenting the process of making bak kwa at Yee Hai Kopitiam in Perak Road, a place where you can still buy traditional, charcoal-grilled bak kwa. Their brand, "一定香" (Yī Dìng Xiāng), translates to "unmistakable fragrance" or "definitely aromatic". It is a fitting name, encapsulating the irresistible aroma of its product, which celebrates "古早味肉干" (traditional flavours of bak kwa). This emphasis on heritage and authenticity resonates deeply, particularly with those who value the richness of time-honoured recipes and techniques.

For more than two decades, the Yeoh family that runs the coffee shop has come together to grill thousands of kilograms of its delicious bak kwa that is juicy, flavourful and infused with smoky goodness. This year, the family aims to make 6,000 kg of bak kwa, estimated to be about 108,110 slices (if my calculation is right). Made without artificial flavouring or additives, the bak kwa reflects a dedication to purity and tradition. Each slice is carefully prepared and grilled to perfection. Burnt edges are meticulously trimmed before packing, ensuring that only the finest pieces make it into the vacuum-sealed bags. Once sealed, the bak kwa retains its full-bodied flavour.

The packaging includes clear instructions for maintaining freshness and reheating. Once opened, it is recommended to consume the bak kwa within a few days and to store it in the refrigerator to extend its shelf life.

The first time I tasted bak kwa from Yī Dìng Xiāng, I was instantly hooked. For this Chinese New Year, I have ordered several 500g packets as gifts, eager to share this scrumptiously treat with family and friends. This is a brilliant option to stay clear of the thick, dry versions from big brands packed with artificial colouring and preservatives.

When I spoke to Wei Keat, he was enthusiastic about sharing insights into his family’s operation. For a small, family-run business, producing 6,000 kg of bak kwa is no small feat. The sheer effort involved in grilling that many pieces is nothing short of backbreaking. I was reminded of my own experience making kuih kapit from sunrise to sundown during festive seasons. Even hours after the baking was done, my body radiated heat, a vivid reminder of the labour involved. I can only imagine the toll it takes on Wei Keat’s father, who personally undertakes the grilling – a task that demands both stamina and an iron will.

What struck me most was the close family bond evident in their operation, evoking memories of my own family during festive seasons when I was younger. Baking cookies like kuih kapit, kuih bangkit, ribbon biscuits, jam tarts, and also sugee cake was a collective effort filled with laughter, stories and a shared sense of accomplishment. It is heart-warming to see that same spirit alive in Yī Dìng Xiāng’s tradition.

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
31 December 2024

Yī Dìng Xiāng at Yee Hai Kopitiam
309-P, Perak Road, 11600 George Town, Penang, Malaysia
Yeoh Wei Keat: +6016-461 5510

PS: In Penang, bak kwa comes in two main varieties – minced pork and sliced pork. The minced pork version, with its higher fat content, is made by shaping marinated minced meat into slices before grilling. The sliced pork variety is leaner and firmer, crafted from thinly cut slices of pork. Variations in shape include circular bite-sized “gold coin” bak kwa as well as small oblong pieces topped with a knob of fatty pork. At Yī Dìng Xiāng, however, they stay true to tradition, focusing exclusively on the classic square minced pork version.

While Yī Dìng Xiāng sticks to the classic minced pork bak kwa, the world of bak kwa has evolved to include a dazzling array of gourmet options. Elsewhere, you can find flavours like pineapple, black pepper, chili-spiced and even truffle-infused versions, catering to more adventurous palates. For those who abstain from pork, chicken and beef offer delicious alternatives. The truly bold can explore exotic varieties made from duck, crocodile, emu, prawn, ostrich and even lobster. Vegetarians are not left out either, with meatless versions crafted from soy or tempeh. Who knows what creative twist will come next?