Kak Ayu’s Quallys Syok Segarnya – a culinary love letter to all

Quallys Syok Segarnya is more than just a restaurant – it is a love letter to Malaysia’s culinary heritage. It embraces the simplicity of fresh ingredients and deep-rooted cooking tradition while adapting to the evolving tastes of today’s diners. Here, the essence of "masakan kampung" (traditional Malay village cooking) shines through, bringing rich, "sedaplicious" flavours to every dish. Malay cuisine, with its harmonious blend of spices, herbs and regional influences, revolves around rice – served with curries, sambal, seafood and meats. It is often enjoyed by hand for an authentic, finger-licking-good experience. At the heart of Quallys is Yusniza Ayu Yusoff, fondly known as Kak Ayu, whose warm, heartfelt approach captures the true spirit of cooking with love.

Recently, I had the pleasure of dining at Quallys with my eldest sister and her family. Kak Ayu personally introduced each dish, peppering her descriptions with delightful stories and humorous details that made the evening feel even more special. Her infectious charm and lively spirit filled the air with laughter. Incidentally, Kak Ayu is a neighbour to my nephew Zakaria in Lakeside, Bertam. We often cross paths at events around Penang, where we both move in circles of food enthusiasts and those passionate about all things Penang. I was especially excited for this meal, knowing Kak Ayu’s reputation as a brilliant cook who embraces a farm-to-table approach. Her dishes, crafted with fresh, locally sourced ingredients, burst with natural goodness.

Kak Ayu’s culinary journey is as rich and compelling as the flavours she creates. With over three decades of cooking experience, she weaves her memories of her mother’s and aunt’s recipes into every plate. Quality seafood – barramundi, grouper, prawns and squid – is sourced directly from their sea cage farm off Pulau Jerejak and local markets, ensuring exceptional freshness. To make things even more convenient, the menu features set packages, making it easy to enjoy a generous spread without the agony of decision fatigue.

For dinner that evening, we opted for the “new daily happy meal” (minus a plastic toy, of course). The hearty spread included curry fish head with lady’s fingers, “ikan bakaq I love you” (grilled fish), a fluffy telur dadar (omelette), stir-fried vegetables, and white rice – all for RM131.00 nett. To add a crispy touch, we ordered ayam goreng bawang (spiced fried chicken) and sotong goreng (battered deep-fried squid).

The telur dadar was a golden, crispy-edged omelette, light yet full of flavour –prepared with a technique that involved pouring beaten egg into sizzling hot oil. At home, I usually steer clear of deep-frying, but the way the Thais prepare omelettes like this always fascinates me. Perhaps Kak Ayu could serve it with a prik nam pla – a spicy, umami-packed dipping sauce that would complement the telur dadar wonderfully!

Another side dish was the stir-fried vegetables, and that evening, it was lady’s fingers (okra), topped with a scattering of spring onions and crispy fried shallots.

Freshness at Quallys is not merely a catchphrase – it is at the heart of everything they do. The scrumptious barbeque fish, grilled on a banana leaf, was infused with a smoky aroma and paired well with sambal belacan. Unlike the thick, paste-like sambal my mum makes at home, Quallys’ version was lighter and more fluid, enhanced with air asam (tamarind juice), delivering a tangy punch that complemented the fish perfectly. A lum chut dipping sauce, prepared in Peranakan style, would also have been a brilliant accompaniment to the grilled fish.

The star of the dish was undoubtedly the curry fish head with lady's fingers. The bright, orangey-red curry was a beautiful blend of spices, with tangy flavours and aromatic curry leaves that created a lovely depth of taste. Fresh herbs and spices were used in the curry and the fish head was incredibly fresh – sans any fishy odour. It tasted "sedap gila" with simple white rice, and I found myself slurping up the gravy in pure satisfaction.

Made to order, the next dish arrived piping hot, sizzling with a fragrant aroma. Marinated with a blend of spices and seasoning before being deep-fried, the chicken had a crispy exterior encasing succulent meat within. It was absolutely irresistible.

To finish the lineup of dishes, the battered squid was crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It was served with a zesty Thai chilli sauce that added just the right kick.

Then came a delightful surprise: Kak Ayu generously served us a complimentary dish of steamed red snapper. Kept wonderfully simple, the fish was steamed with a superior soy sauce, topped with spring onions, fiery bird's eye chillies, golden fried garlic and a splash of fragrant sesame oil. The fish, so fresh, had a natural sweetness that was truly exquisite.

This is the beauty of Chinese-style steamed fish – where simplicity leads to extraordinary flavours. Subtle yet sensational, every bite made me pause and nod in appreciation. Kak Ayu, thank you for this unexpected treat! It is the kind of dish that lingers long after the meal is over and I cannot recommend it enough. A generous gesture that capped off an already unforgettable dining experience.

Do you know that Perbadanan Bekalan Air Pulau Pinang (PBAPP) treats its water with chemicals like calcium hypochlorite, hydrated lime, liquid chlorine, polyaluminium chloride and sodium silico fluoride? These additives can subtly alter the taste of both water and food. During my chat with Kak Ayu, I was happy to learn that she uses Coway-filtered water for everything – washing, cooking and even making ice cubes. “Unfiltered water changes the taste of food", she explained and I could not agree more.

I am eagerly looking forward to visiting the fish farm at Pulau Jerejak, where Kak Ayu’s commitment to sustainability and freshness begins. While the food at Quallys is undeniably satisfying, the true charm lies in Kak Ayu herself. Her passion for cooking is infectious and her dedication to her craft is truly inspiring.

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
26 November 2024

Quallys Syok Segarnya
567, Jalan Masjid Negeri, Gelugor,11600 Penang, Malaysia.
Tel: +6017-529 6674
Open: 11 am to 10 pm daily

PS: Kak Ayu, a former deejay for 14 years and an accountant manager for a US semiconductor company, transitioned to the food industry during the pandemic. After the catering company she worked for was hit hard, she launched Dapur Kak Ayu (DKA) during the first MCO, offering home-based delivery of her family’s traditional Malay recipes. Her business flourished, leading to a collaboration with Teels Cafe and a name change to Quallys Nusantara Kitchen. In 2024, she relocated to 567, Jalan Masjid Negeri, rebranding the business as Quallys Syok Segarnya, where her culinary journey continues.