Celebrating Peranakan heritage at the 35th Baba Nyonya International Convention in Phuket
The Thai Peranakan Association had the honour of hosting the 35th Baba Nyonya International Convention at the Duangjitt Resort & Spa from 15-17 November 2024. This vibrant gathering brought together over 500 delegates from Penang, Kuala Lumpur, Malacca, Kelantan, Terengganu, Singapore, Indonesia, Perth and Melbourne, fostering a rich exchange of cultural identities and strengthening the bonds that unite the global Peranakan community.
This year’s convention embraced the theme “Longevity and Gastronomy", drawing inspiration from Phuket’s recognition as a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2015. The programme spotlighted cherished traditions surrounding auspicious foods, celebrated for their role in enhancing vitality and well-being within Phuket’s vibrant Peranakan community.
Seven members of the State Chinese (Penang) Association (SCPA), myself included, arrived two days ahead of the convention. From the moment we disembarked, we were warmly greeted by a charming usher from the Thai Peranakan Association, who ensured a swift passage through immigration and a comfortable van ride to our hotel.
On the 15th, we checked into the serene Duangjitt Resort & Spa, located along the famed Patong Beach. Set within a sprawling 36-acre estate, the resort is a lush haven, home to an array of tropical trees and vibrant flowering plants. In stark contrast, the lively Patong Beach area bustles with activity, lined with hotels, restaurants, shops, bars and an array of entertainment options.
Upon registration, we each received a nametag, a souvenir bag and a pair of boho-style loose trousers printed with elephant motifs. Unlike previous years, the Suara Baba magazine was not printed in hard copy but made available online as a convenient flipbook. The design of the nametag, souvenir bag and flipbook was beautiful with graphic elements in a harmonious interplay of pink and teal hues creating a seamless and captivating aesthetics across all the conference materials.
The welcome dinner unfolded beneath an enchanting moonlit sky, featuring live music, a vibrant blend of contemporary and cultural performances and even an international “Miss Noppamas” contest, which added a touch of glamour and tradition to the evening. Thank heaven, the skies cleared and the weather was perfect, especially considering the heavy downpour that had drenched the afternoon.
The buffet dinner offered a modest selection of only three main dishes – fried chicken, sweet and sour fish fillet and stir-fried vegetables. These were accompanied by steamed rice, soup, a fresh salad bar with a fiery sambal and an assortment of cut fruits.
The welcome dinner on the evening of 15 November 2024 also coincided with the vibrant celebrations of the Loy Krathong festival. That night, I had the joy of experiencing the festival for the first time. Celebrated on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, this cherished Thai tradition involves sending banana-leaf vessels, or krathongs, decorated with flowers, candles and incense, afloat on the sea or other bodies of water. Hundreds of krathongs were crafted for the occasion, a labour-intensive effort due to the intricate designs involved.
Rooted in Brahmin rituals to honour the water goddess Phra Mae Khongkha (Hindu goddess Ganga) and later infused with Buddhist symbolism, it represents gratitude for water and letting go of "burden".
As I set my krathong afloat – albeit into the resort’s swimming pool – it was a quiet reminder that letting go is the first step toward embracing new beginnings.
The morning of the second day of the convention began with the promise of insight and inspiration. After enjoying a hearty buffet breakfast, we arrived at the convention centre bright, ready to immerse ourselves in the day’s activities.
The event opened with a warm and insightful speech by Dr Kosol Taengutai, President of the Thai Peranakan Association. Drawing from his message in the 2024 Suara Baba magazine, Dr Kosol highlighted the strong connections between Phuket and Penang, emphasising how the culinary traditions of the two sister cities are intertwined.
“Phuket’s local cuisine has deep roots in Penang", he noted, “blending Thai southern recipes with the heritage of our Penangite ancestors. The result is a distinctive Phuket style we celebrate today”. He also underlined the evolution of Thai Peranakan traditions – spanning weddings, birth celebrations, spiritual festivals and condolence ceremonies – all shaped by the region’s shared heritage. “These customs", Dr Kosol remarked, “not only define our culture but also influence our longevity and quality of life. After all, we are what we eat and do".
This focus on the interplay between tradition and well-being set the tone for the morning’s keynote presentations, themed “Longevity and Gastronomy". The first speaker, Mr Sanjai Tandavanij, an honorary advisor to the Thai Peranakan Association, engaged the audience with his talk on Phuket’s food culture. He explored the richness of its diversity, its adaptability over generations and the deep connections it fosters within and beyond the community.
Next, Ms Arjarn Patnapa Srichomchey, Head of the Nutrition and Dietetics Center at Theptarin Hospital, took the stage. Her session delved into the science of health and longevity, offering practical insights on how balanced diets and mindful choices can extend and enrich life.
After a short tea break, the third keynote speaker, Mr Danuchaporn Paritan, brought the conversation into the heart of the Peranakan home with his presentation entitled “Inside My Kitchen". The session transitioned into lunch, offering participants a moment to connect over a shared meal.
In front of the convention centre, a vibrant bazaar added a lively flair to the event. Booths showcased stunning kebayas, colourful sarongs, exquisite Peranakan jewellery, pearls, lace materials, hand-painted batik, local Thai products, aromatic coffee and even angku-shaped ice cream. Vendors from Penang, Kuala Lumpur and Thailand offered an enticing selection of traditional Peranakan items and contemporary creations.
The bazaar buzzed with activity as participants thronged the stalls, eagerly hunting for bargains and unique treasures to add to their collections.
After lunch, I made my way to the workshops, which were arranged to take advantage of the picturesque surroundings. Two were held in the gardens, shaded by tall trees that provided a cool respite from the afternoon sun. The other two were conducted in nearby pavilions.
I made my way to the DIY inhaler workshop, curious to create my very own ya-dom, a traditional Thai inhaler renowned for its soothing properties. The facilitator was at hand to prepare the aromatic blends of ingredients like cloves, nutmeg mace, menthol and camphor, while we were guided to place the mixture onto a piece of mesh cloth. I carefully wrapped the cloth and inserted it into a small inhaler bottle. The process was simple and I loved the soothing aroma, which is believed to promote relaxation with a calming effect on the mind and body.
The next workshop I took part in was all about crafting somtam – Phuket style. What set this version apart was the bold addition of belacan (shrimp paste), lending a rich, pungent saltiness that paired beautifully with the fiery kick of cabai burung (bird’s eye chilli). I instantly fell in love with this take on the classic dish.
The facilitator began by crushing black pepper and garlic before pounding the chillies into the mix. The shrimp paste, lime juice, dried shrimp and lightly toasted anchovies were added next, creating a fragrant, textured base. Finally, cashew nuts were incorporated for crunch and the flavours were adjusted to balance. Served with fresh vegetables, it was a dish bursting with character. I am already looking forward to recreating it at home!
At the next workshop, each participant had the opportunity to select three iron-on patches to decorate a small white tote bag. With miniature irons provided, we pressed our chosen patches onto the fabric, creating personalised designs. It was a great way to add a unique touch to the bag, resulting in a charming and practical souvenir to take home.
The next pavilion hosted a dance workshop, where skilled facilitators led us through the graceful movements of a traditional Thai dance. With patience and precision, they taught us the subtle hand gestures, ensuring we embodied the fluidity and poise characteristic of Thai dance. As we swayed in time with the music, the rhythm seemed to carry us and I found myself immersed in the beauty of the moment.
After the workshops wrapped up, Jason and I decided to take a refreshing dip in the pool. Set against a backdrop of lush, beautifully landscaped gardens, the azure waters offered the perfect refuge from the afternoon heat. We lingered beneath a cascading waterfall, the pounding water providing a natural massage that soothed both our muscles and minds. Time seemed to vanish as we relaxed in this tranquil sanctuary. Eventually, the need to prepare for the evening's grand gala dinner pulled us away, and we made our way back to our rooms.
As I entered the ballroom, I was immediately struck by the sight of guests dressed to the nines. The women were in their finest kebaya outfits, each intricately embroidered with auspicious symbols of phoenixes, peonies, fishes, birds and flowers, paired with stunning sarongs and jewellery. They embodied the grandeur and elegance of Peranakan fashion. In March 2023, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand united in a multinational nomination to inscribe "Kebaya: Knowledge, Skills, Traditions and Practices" on the UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) of Humanity. This collective effort celebrates the kebaya as a symbol of shared history and identity across Southeast Asia. As I looked around, the women in the ballroom personified this cultural unity, each wearing her heritage with pride and grace.
In 2015, I had the idea to use the delicate, gossamer-like fabric of the kebaya to create a shirt that was both stylish and masculine. I wanted to embrace the beauty of this traditional material without compromising my own sense of identity. Since then, I have designed several "kebaya" shirts that I am proud to wear, including one I wore when I had the honour of meeting the then Prince Charles, the Prince of Wales and Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall, during their 2017 visit to Penang. The kebaya, with its intricate craftsmanship and rich heritage, should not be confined by gender. I believe that everyone, regardless of gender, should have the opportunity to celebrate and wear it with pride.
The evening was filled with merriment and laughter. A captivating skit unfolded before us, a wordless performance where music and gestures told the story of a Chinese Peranakan tale – one of life, marriage and the joyous arrival of a newborn.
During the afternoon tea break, Nancy Cheah leaned in with a mischievous smile and whispered, "You should eat that little slice of orange sponge cake. It’s my birthday cake!" To my delight, Nancy turned 88 that day and I could not be happier to share this joyful news with the rest of our SCPA members.
That evening, Dato' Seri Tan Gin Soon and Lily Wong managed to bring out a lovely birthday cake for Nancy. Surrounded by friends, we sang a boisterous "Happy Birthday!" – thankfully, our table was at the back of the hall, far from the stage! Nancy, 88 years of wisdom, grace and laughter, is a remarkable achievement. May your journey continue to be filled with love, happiness and every dream you have yet to fulfil.
The gala dinner was a wonderful celebration not only of Nancy’s 88th birthday but also of the rich Peranakan heritage that united us all. The evening was filled with music, dancing, lots of dancing and an infectious camaraderie that brought everyone together. We were not just celebrating a culture; we were living it!
Throughout the conference, we were accompanied by Mos, a friendly Thai coordinator, who guided us to each event and venue with warmth and care. The service was nothing short of exemplary and I am deeply grateful for the thoughtful care we received at every step. Kam sia cheh-cheh.
Under the moonlit night of Loy Krathong, kita bersatu,
Peranakan heritage, tetap berseri selalu.
Dari Penang ke Phuket, lau juak-loh the celebrations,
May our traditions thrive, passing down through generations.
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Written by Adrian Cheah. Photos by Adrian Cheah, Jason Ng and the organisers of the events
© All rights reserved
17 November 2024
PS: The early bird conference package of RM1,300 per pax (twin sharing) included two-way airport transfers in Phuket, a two-night stay at the Duangjitt Resort and Spa with a buffet breakfast, access to seminars, workshops and coffee breaks, as well as a welcome dinner, gala dinner, farewell lunch, cultural exhibitions, performances and souvenirs.