Tono Izakaya Penang – sake, skewers, sushi and more

Penang, a haven for food lovers, serves up a sedap-licious escapade like no other, from street food stalls brimming with local delights to high-end fine dining restaurants, not forgetting cosy patisseries and bustling pubs. But when it comes to an izakaya, there is something inherently different – a taste of Japan served with a side of its rich cultural essence, much like how an Irish pub offers more than just a pint.

Tono Izakaya Penang, located at 80, Lebuh Tye Sin, is the fourth branch in the Tono chain, with three other well-established outlets in Kuala Lumpur. The neon-lit space hums with the lively spirit of a traditional izakaya, providing a welcoming spot to enjoy Japanese bites, wash them down with sake or beer and unwind in the informal, relaxed atmosphere.

What sets an izakaya apart from your typical pub is not just the drinks and decor, but the food itself! Here, the use of fresh, seasonal ingredients air-flown from Japan ensures quality dishes. Expect to find both traditional Japanese classics and modern creations, including some signature offerings. The menu features a selection of izakaya favourites that range from small bites, carpaccio and appetisers to sashimi, sushi, fried snacks and sando (Japanese sandwich). If you are feeling peckish for something more substantial, there is a variety of rice dishes, hot plates, yakitori and kushiyaki (charcoal-grilled skewers). The yakitori and kushiyaki items are grilled over a fire using binchotan, a traditional Japanese charcoal known for its smokiness, imparting a distinctive char to each skewer.

The word izakaya (居酒屋) translates to “stay-drink-place", aptly capturing the spirit of these Japanese-style pubs. Much more than just a place to grab a quick drink, an izakaya invites you to settle in, relax and enjoy good food in good company – whether you are sipping on sake or downing a beer or two after work.

The roots of izakaya culture run deep, some say dating back over 250 years, with its origins intertwined with Japan’s rich history of sake. Early izakayas evolved from sakaya (酒屋), sake shops that have existed since the 14th century, where patrons would drink on the premises. Over time, these casual drinking spots began serving simple food, eventually blossoming into the beloved izakaya culture of today. This concept has since travelled beyond Japan, finding a welcome home in places like China, Korea and of course, Malaysia.

One evening, my friends and I made our way to Tono Izakaya for dinner. After perusing the menu with a pint of Suntory in hand, I knew the first thing I had to order was the chicken karaage (Japanese fried chicken) served with a creamy gribiche sauce (RM6++ per piece). These moist and tender lollipop drumsticks had a crispy coating, making them truly heavenly when paired with the super-flavourful gribiche sauce. This French sauce is a delightful blend of hard-boiled eggs, mustard, pickles, capers and herbs. Be sure to add the chicken karaage to your list of must-order!

We also savoured the unagi uramaki topped with ebiko (RM38++) served with some preserved ginger on the side. Uramaki, meaning "inside-out roll", typically features rice on the outside, offering a unique twist to the usual sushi roll. However, in this case, the entire sushi roll is coated in batter and deep-fried, creating a delightful crispy casing. This was my first experience with sushi prepared this way and it was a hit from the first bite!

Another sushi roll we opted for was the spider tamago (RM28++) with deep-fried soft shell crab. Caught shortly after it had molted, soft shell crab has a tender, delicate texture and a sweet, briny flavour. A slice of tamago (Japanese rolled omelette) served as the base of the sushi, topped with vibrant orange pearls of salmon roe. Divided into four bite-sized portions, each piece delivered a delightful mouthful of varied textures and umami-rich tastes.

For noodles, we had the mentaiko udon (RM34.50++) – a spicy cod (or pollock) roe udon topped with a raw egg yolk and ebiko. This dish features thick and chewy udon noodles tossed in a creamy sauce made from lightly spicy salted cod roe. Sprinkled with thin strips of refreshing bonito flakes, spring onions and crisp nori seaweed, it was a hearty and comforting option.

For rice dishes, the menu presents a variety of mouthwatering choices, such as chicken teriyaki don, Miyazaki A5 teriyaki don, and Australian wagyu beef teriyaki don. We ended up going for the unagi don (grilled eel rice bowl, RM48++) served in a stone bowl. Unlike the Korean bibimbap served in a sizzling hot stone bowl, this one was used merely for aesthetic purposes. Grilled eel is particularly popular in Japan due to its rich, succulent flavour and the belief that it provides stamina and vitality, making it a sought-after delicacy, especially during the hot summer months.

The petite vanilla ice cream monaka (RM28++ for two pieces) is ice cream sandwiched between two biscuit wafers. One of the most beloved sweets in Japan, monaka is traditionally made from glutinous rice. The rice is kneaded and spread into a thin layer, forming the delicate skin of the monaka, which is typically filled with sweet red bean paste – in this case, vanilla ice cream. The name "monaka" is said to have originated from the shape resembling a full moon, which was historically referred to as the "moon of monaka". This pretty dessert was a lovely way to end the meal.

To keep things exciting, especially for prudent Penangites who are always on the lookout for hard-to-resist deals, Tono Izakaya introduces enticing monthly specials. Take, for example, their September 2024 promotion: a "buy 1 free 1" offer for lunch featuring the salmon sashimi set and the bara unagi set for only RM38++. It sounded almost too good to be true and naturally, I found myself returning for lunch to take up that price-worthy offer!

Tono Izakaya offers more than just food – it serves up a full Japanese "pub" experience with a wide range of alcoholic beverages like sake, shochu, beer, wine and cocktails. You can sit at the bar for a front-row view of chefs preparing sashimi, or choose a table for a quieter, more personal setting. Whether you are new to izakayas or already a fan, Tono Izakaya strives to ensure you have an enjoyable dining experience. As they say in Japan, “Kanpai!”

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
9 September 2024

Tono Izakaya Penang
80, Lebuh Tye Sin, 10300 George Town, Penang
T: +6011-7003 7977
Daily from 11:30 am–3 pm, 5 pm–12 am

Meet Kappa the playful mascot of Tono Izakaya

Inspired by Japan’s rich folklore, Tono Izakaya’s mascot, Kappa, traces its origins to the ancient legends of the Tono region in Iwate Prefecture. It was in Tono that folklorist Kunio Yanagita compiled the recollections of a local man named Kizen Sasaki to create The Legends of Tōno in 1910, a definitive collection of rural folk stories. Yanagita and Sasaki’s work preserved local versions of yokai, mythical creatures like the Kappa, into national folklore.

Right: Kappa drawings from mid-19th century Suiko juni-hin no zu (Illustrated Guide to 12 Types of Kappa), public domain.

Though originally feared for their trickery and strange habits, Kappa have evolved into more playful figures in modern culture. With their love for cucumbers and reputation for trickery, they have become endearing symbols in Japanese culture. Today, Kappa is embraced as the endearing mascot of Tono Izakaya, blending centuries-old myth with modern warmth – much like the restaurant itself, which brings both tradition and fun into every dining experience.