Flavours of tradition: the timeless charm of Madam Tan’s Hailam Char
Tucked at the back of Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam is an unassuming noodle stall run by the ever-friendly Madam Tan Saw Guat and her daughter. Here, they serve up a humble yet heart-warming dish – Hailam Char (Hainanese stir-fried noodles) – that is as comforting as it is delicious, a true taste of nostalgia for anyone who appreciates authentic flavours.
For me, Hailam Char is more than just a dish; it is a culinary tribute to the Hainanese immigrants who brought their unique cooking style to our shores. This dish embodies a delightful mix of flavours and textures – stir-fried yellow noodles, prawns, thin slices of pork, eggs and chai sim (Chinese mustard greens), all smothered in a rich, cream-colored gravy. The gravy itself is a luxurious concoction of chicken stock, scrambled eggs, seasoning and the irresistible crunch of fried lard. The subtle, smoky aroma of fried shallots, added early in the cooking process, might have melted into the gravy, but it leaves an unforgettable mark on the noodles. Served on the side, the essential homemade sambal belacan adds just the right amount of fiery kick, elevating the overall experience.
Madam Tan’s journey with Hailam Char began in the 1980s at a coffee shop on 161 Kimberley Street, where her late husband, Ong Khye Jim, a full-blooded Hainanese, first introduced this humble stir-fried noodle dish. For over three decades, they built a loyal following of customers who could not get enough of his delectable offerings, even when they relocated a few doors away to 145 Kimberley Street. It was probably here that many Penangites first discovered the wonders of Hailam Char.
The current vendor at 161 Kimberley Street, who continues to sell the same noodle dishes, is not affiliated with the Ong family, who originally introduced Hailam Char at this location. Madam Tan, from the original family, is now at Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam.
Talking to Madam Tan, I can see the pride in her eyes as she relives those glorious days of aiding her husband. When I inquired where he developed his skill and passion, Madam Tan was quick to point out that it was his innate love for cooking, although he did work at a restaurant in his early days. But perhaps this passion ran even deeper, rooted in his family heritage. Mr Ong's grandfather, who established a coffee shop on 161 Kimberley Street in 1932, started by serving simple breakfasts of drinks, toasts and half-boiled eggs. His father also carried on the family’s culinary tradition and it seems Mr Ong may have inherited their culinary talents.
Madam Tan fondly recalls her husband’s superior version of the dish, though she humbly downplays her own cooking skills. As a fellow Penangite, I recognise this as the classic humility that runs deep in Chinese culture. Watching her confidently wield a fiery wok, it is clear she is a master in her own right. In the early days, Mr Ong would fry the noodles over a traditional charcoal fire, imbuing them with an irresistible smokiness. Even when he eventually switched to using gas for convenience and speed, it did nothing to diminish the dish’s appeal; loyal customers kept coming back for more. Mr Ong originally used pork bone stock, but Madam Tan has since transitioned to chicken stock – another subtle evolution in a dish steeped in tradition.
As I sit at the kopitiam, savouring each bite of Hailam Char, I am transported back to simpler times. The taste of the rich gravy and the tender noodles remind me of the countless evenings my daughter and I would drop by the stall, conveniently located near my office, for a quick yet satisfying meal. Over the years, Madam Tan and I have become well-acquainted and she knows our preferences by heart. There is something deeply comforting about being recognised and remembered at a place like this – it is as if you are not just a customer, but a dear friend.
Madam Tan set up the stall at Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam about six years ago to start anew, leaving behind her well-established customer base at Kimberley Street. I, for one, am thrilled that she chose to continue the business and preserve this piece of Penang’s culinary history. Her dedication to maintaining her husband’s legacy is evident in every plate of Hailam Char she serves.
While Hailam Char is undoubtedly the star of the menu, Madam Tan also offers two other noodle dishes that are equally worth trying. The Char Hor Fun (flat rice noodles) comes with a luscious, soft, runny egg gravy, which pairs perfectly with pickled green chillies. Then there is the Hokkien Char, served with a lip-smacking sambal belacan that adds an extra layer of spiciness, making it a satisfying choice.
This stall is a treasure trove of Penang’s rich culinary heritage, showcasing the unique fusion of cultures that make our food scene truly one-of-a-kind. The Hainanese chefs, like Madam Tan’s late husband, played a pivotal role in shaping this vibrant culinary tapestry. These adventurous cooks were known for their bold innovations, seamlessly blending local influences with both Western and Chinese cuisines to create hybrid offerings. Their fearless spirit gave birth to iconic Hainanese dishes found only in this region. The Hainanese chefs were not just content with replicating traditional recipes – they pushed boundaries, experimented with flavours and adapted to the local palate. This blend of cultures, techniques and ingredients is what makes Penang’s food so special and why it continues to draw food lovers from all over the world.
Madam Tan’s stall is a living reminder of this rich culinary journey, where the past and present come together to offer an unforgettable taste of Penang’s gastronomic heritage. If you are looking to experience these simple yet soulful noodle dishes, pay a visit to Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam, located next to Sunshine Jelutong. It is a taste of Penang that is not to be missed – a humble yet powerful reminder of the rich cultural and culinary heritage that defines us.
-------------------------------------
Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
21 August 2024
Hailam Char at Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam
405, 401, Jalan Perak, Jelutong, 11600 George Town, Penang
Open 5:00 pm – 9:30 pm except Fridays