Taste and tradition reimagined at T Palace Modern Cuisine
"Life is a grand adventure, or it is nothing." – Helen Keller.
At T Palace Modern Cuisine, the rich legacy of Chinese cuisine unfolds with an avant-garde flair, a culinary haven where tradition coalesces with innovation, and familiar and new flavours intertwine in a symphony of taste. Impeccable quality and daring offerings breathe new life into classic recipes, each dish a visual and gastronomic revelation. Crafted by a creative team of talented chefs, my friends and I discovered this hidden gem, this banquet of delights, in Bukit Mertajam, Penang.
Datin Ooi, a cherished friend and aficionado of the culinary arts, urged me to explore T Palace, well aware of my relentless pursuit of gastronomic splendour. With discerning taste, she curated a selection of dishes, not merely delectable but also perfectly poised for the lens, understanding my passion for presentation that rivals the pleasure of taste.
We began our meal with the "Braised Golden Pumpkin Four Treasure Soup" (RM40++), a comforting bowl of goodness. Its sun-kissed hue, a gentle melding of pumpkin and carrot, cradled a mélange of shredded sea cucumber, fish maw, dry scallops, diced chestnut and crab meat. The soup, perpetually warm from the flickering tea candle beneath, was topped with a skewer of scallop and prawn. Black vinegar, served on the side, awaited those who desired a tangy counterpoint to the rich, savoury essence. I, in turn, requested for some preserved green cut chillies, adding a piquant sharpness to the lush richness. The skewered seafood and the sweet crab meat stood out as resplendent highlights in this umami-rich soup.
Next arrived the "T Palace Individual Recommendation Trilogy" (RM45++) platter – a delightful trio featuring a crispy Chinese rice cracker topped with unagi, a steamed egg custard with seared foie gras and black truffle pâté, and a crispy breaded prawn paste sculpted into a crab claw.
The egg custard, smooth and silky, was reminiscent of chawanmushi. It was served in an intriguing egg-shaped bowl cradled in a nest. Individually plated, each guest received their own trio of delights to marvel at and savour.
Following the captivating presentation of the trilogy platter, we were served the "King Tou Pork Belly with Lotus Bao" (RM25++). The pork, tender and succulent, was marinated well with its flavours thoroughly infused into the meat. Each component was served separately, allowing us to assemble the bun ourselves. The pork rested on a shiso leaf, which I added to the bun. However, the shiso, with its vibrant hints of mint and basil, somewhat overshadowed the pork's delicate flavours. In hindsight, omitting the shiso would have been preferable. For me, coriander leaves would have been a better choice for that refreshing touch. The salad served on the side was an ideal accompaniment to the dish.
The succulent "Gindara Teriyaki" (cod fish) (RM45++) arrived atop a crisp, refreshing petite salad. It was presented with a dramatic flourish, enveloped in a veil of mist from the dry ice below, evoking the ethereal ambiance of the cloud-shrouded hills from ancient China. The fish, fresh and cooked just right, flaked effortlessly, making it a delight to enjoy with chopsticks.
By now, we were quite sated, making Datin Ooi's foresight to order the "Stir-fried Turnip Cake with Prawns and Scallops" (RM45++) for sharing, particularly astute. This dish, a luxurious rendition of the popular Penang street food "char koay kak", was a revelation. Unlike the traditional rice cake cubes, T Palace's version used turnip cake (chai tau koay) cubes, rich with umami from diced dried shrimp and Chinese sausage or ham. The addition of scallops, prawns, bean sprouts, and spring onions, all tossed in a fiery wok, imparted a smoky aroma – wok hei, or the breath of the wok. This elevated version far surpassed the deep-fried or pan-fried turnip cake slices typically found at dim sum cafes in Penang.
To conclude our delightful meal, we opted for a chilled dessert – "Ai Yu Lemongrass Jelly with Lychee" (RM15++). This refreshing treat, topped with Yakult boba, pomelo pulp, basil seeds, a lychee, a mint leaf and a strawberry, presented a colourful ensemble. Ai Yu Jelly, a celebrated summer treat from Taiwan, is crafted from the seeds of dried fig fruit. When these seeds are rubbed with spring water, they interact with the minerals in the water to form a delicate jelly, thanks to the high pectin content of the fig seeds. This pectin, mingling with the water’s minerals, creates the soft jelly that defines this lovely dessert.
To accompany our culinary journey, we opted for a bottle of super-chilled Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc (RM188++) from New Zealand. This exquisite aperitif, with its ripe tropical notes, paired beautifully with each course, especially that of the cod fish. The Private Bin wines, crafted with an elegant and approachable style, embody the fruit-driven essence of New Zealand's diverse wine regions.
The service was impeccable, enhancing our intimate meal in a private room setting. T Palace’s signature design embraces a modern, minimalist aesthetic, blending dark wood tones with sleek black elements. Black, indeed, is their defining hue. With five private rooms and spacious banquet halls, T Palace caters to private gatherings and grand celebrations alike. At the main entrance, a showcase of awards and trophies proudly displays their achievements, setting the tone for the refined experience within.
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
21 July 2024
T Palace Modern Cuisine
46A, Jalan Kulim, Taman Jaya, 14000 Bukit Mertajam, Penang, Malaysia
Tel +6016 615 9789
Open daily: 11:45 am–3:00 pm, 5:45–10:00 pm
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About Chef Tat
In 2021, Executive Chef, Chef Tat established the Culinary Masters Kitchen, nurturing a new generation of chefs. By 2022, he took the helm as Executive Chef of WJ Group and founded T Palace, guided by his philosophy of “introspection within, outreach to the world". "Food is an unfinished product. I want to infuse it with my heart, knowledge, and techniques to make it complete, allowing you to experience another possibility of happiness," says Chef Tat, encapsulating his dedication to culinary excellence and his quest to create joy through food.
Restaurants under the WJ Group in Penang are: Wu Jia Chinese Restaurant in Sungai Dua; Wu Five Ten Chinese Cuisine in Tanjung Tokong; Ryujin Dining, Talent Kitchen and T Palace Modern Cuisine in Bukit Mertajam; and W World in Drury Lane.