Chef Sue Ching's artistry at Third Culture Penang

Third Culture Penang offers a "seasonal" menu that draws from the fresh ingredients of Penang and neighbouring states, skilfully prepared by Chef Khor Sue Ching. She deploys French cooking techniques learnt from L’Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, France. However, most of her culinary skills were honed not in classrooms, but in the actual kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants. Learning about this, I eagerly anticipated creative flavours paired with exciting new culinary combinations for a delightful dining experience.

My friend, Low Auck Seng and I went to Third Culture for lunch. We began with a bread basket of good sourdough bread, served with a platter of three types of compound butters – garlic-and-parsley, tom yam and mushroom (RM30+). Each of these inventive and creamy options was delightful, especially when enjoyed with the warm, airy and chewy sourdough slices with a crispy crust.

Compound butter ("beurre composé" in French) is believed to have originated in France, though the practice of incorporating herbs into butter and fats likely predates its attribution to French cuisine. It involves blending butter with various ingredients to introduce sweet or savoury flavours. That afternoon, we sampled three of Chef Sue Ching's creative options. Their creamy texture and distinctive flavour profiles were wonderful. Personally, my favourite was the umami-rich mushroom butter.

Next, we had the comforting mushroom soup, garnished with thin slices of grilled king oyster mushrooms (RM48+). The infusion of truffle oil and a soft poached kampung egg imparted a luxurious goodness to the soup. Sharing this dish turned out to be a wise choice, as it could have easily stood alone as a hearty meal, especially alongside the delightful sourdough bread we had just enjoyed.

This was my first encounter with a poached egg in mushroom soup. It is an option I will keep in mind when making mushroom soup at home. Adding a poached egg with its creamy orangey yolk would complement the earthy notes of the mushrooms, adding an extra layer of indulgence to the dish.

For our mains, I chose the charcoal-grilled sea bass (RM120+). Chef Sue Ching explained that the fish is dry-aged for seven days in a 1°C chiller to enhance its natural flavours. She also mentioned that the skin would crisp up like sio bak – pork crackling. It all sounded incredibly intriguing and I was immediately sold!

When the dish arrived, it was beautifully presented with paper-thin zucchini ribbons, lightly seasoned for a refreshing touch, along with some baby peas and on the side, a tangy lemon butter sauce. At first glance, the skin resembled pork crackling, leading me to assume the flesh might be overcooked and dry. To my surprise, the sea bass was moist and flaked easily, a true testament to the chef's culinary skill.

I have cooked fish by steaming, pan-frying, stir-frying, deep-frying, baking, grilling and sous vide methods, but never directly over a hot charcoal flame. Even on a barbecue grill, fish is often marinated and wrapped in banana leaves to prevent it from drying out. The distinct flavours and appealing combinations on the plate were truly scrumptious! Experiencing fish cooked this way for the first time left a lasting impression on me.

Auck Seng opted for the tropical sturgeon (RM180+), a first-time experience for both of us (as I managed to steal a bite). Prepared similarly over charcoal, the sturgeon's fattier flesh was dry-aged for a longer period – 21 days – and sourced from neighbouring Perak. Its texture was surprisingly firm and meaty, almost like "long dan" (giant grouper), reminiscent of chicken or pork. The dish was served with greens, a garlic-parsley emulsion and a traditional French vinaigrette known as sauce vierge. The vinaigrette, made with extra virgin olive oil, olives, capers, fresh herbs and lemons, enriched the delicate flavours of the fatty fish with vibrant and refreshing accents.

Do you know sturgeons can live for 50 to 60 years, with some even reaching over a century? They are highly prized for their caviar – beluga sturgeon caviar, known as black pearls, can reach up to US$10,000 per kilogram. Despite their origins in cold climates, sturgeons have adapted to tropical conditions. In Tanjung Malim, Malaysia, a thriving tropical sturgeon farm has successfully raised six out of the world's 27 sturgeon species.

Next, we were each served a refreshing cucumber sorbet drizzled with kaffir lime leaf extract and petite white edible flowers arriving that morning from Balik Pulau. Surprisingly, it was the subtle herbal notes from the flowers that tantalised my palate, transforming this unassuming sorbet into something pleasantly unexpected.

To conclude this delectable meal with a creative dessert, we opted for the poached pears served alongside a scoop of non-dairy ice cream (RM48+). These pears were poached in cabernet sauvignon with orange, nutmeg and cinnamon, reminiscent of a mulled wine. The instagrammable dessert of poached pears was paired with oat milk ice cream, toasted honey streusel and a crispy tuile. The contrast of textures and distinct flavours evocative of Christmas – mulled wine, mince pies and festive cheer – made for a fitting end to a memorable experience. As Auguste Escoffier famously said, "La bonne cuisine est la base du véritable bonheur" (Good food is the foundation of genuine happiness). I could not have agreed with him more that afternoon.

Personal reflection

Undoubtedly, Chef Sue Ching's culinary prowess – from her meticulous selection of quality ingredients to her masterclass of flavours and her Zen-like aesthetic presentations to inventive creations – is truly remarkable. Running a successful dining establishment also demands astute business acumen and at its core, the ability to cultivate a loyal clientele, which are all formidable tasks. I strongly believe in nurturing young talent if Penang wishes to foster a robust foundation for home-grown creative brilliance. Otherwise, we risk losing them to neighbouring countries and the global stage.

Experience Chef Sue Ching's exclusive tasting menu starting from RM350+, curated to accommodate diverse dietary preferences. Specialising in bespoke dining experiences, she tailors each meal to delight every guest. (One day advance reservation required).

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
4 July 2024

Third Culture Penang
19F, Codrington Avenue, 10350 George Town, Penang
T: +6012 827 2413
Lunch: Thursday – Monday from 11:30 am – 3:00 pm (2 pm last order)
Dinner: Wednesday – Sunday from 6 pm – 10 pm