Gustoso By The Beach: celebrating authentic Italian cuisine
"Gustoso", translates to "tasty" in English. True to its name, the restaurant offers delectable Italian cuisine ranging from antipasti to risotti and from pasta dishes to seafood delights. Situated at the prestigious 5-star PARKROYAL Penang Resort along the famed Batu Ferringhi beach, the restaurant welcomed its first guests in 2019. Under the leadership of Sardinian Head Chef Gianmario Bassu (fondly known as Chef Mario), Gustoso flourished. The menu he curated is still cherished today. Although Chef Mario completed his tenure (2019 – 2022) at PARKROYAL in Penang, his legacy lives on through his well-trained staff, who continue to uphold his culinary techniques and maintain the quality and flavours of his creations.
I have always been enamoured by the shared values of love, passion and zest for food, family and life, which we, Penangites, share with the Italians. Like us, they are equally proud of their culinary heritage and would spend time arguing about where to find the best food.
To celebrate my daughter's birthday, we opted for lunch at Gustoso By The Beach, conveniently located in our weekend retreat at PARKROYAL Penang Resort. We were warmly greeted by the friendly staff, setting the stage for a truly memorable Italian feast that we savoured that day.
To begin our culinary journey, we tucked into some light and airy focaccia, accompanied by a dip of balsamic vinegar reduction and olive oil, alongside preserved olives. The thick, concentrated vinegar, with its caramelised finish, served as a lovely complement to the warm Italian bread.
Mozzarella holds a special place in my heart due to its mild and creamy profile. Thus, I eagerly ordered the Caprese Di Bufala (RM 52), which included pieces of imported Italian Mozzarella di Bufala (buffalo Mozzarella) interlaced with juicy red tomato slices, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and homemade basil pesto. Aromatic microgreens and basil leaves garnished the dish. Visually, the cheese provided a dynamic chromatic contrast against the bright red tomatoes. Such antipasti are often intended to tantalise the taste buds and prepare one for the ensuing culinary experience.
Buffalo mozzarella, made from water buffalo milk, differs in appearance, texture and taste from cow's milk mozzarella. It is often a brilliant white, though it can range to a yellowish tint, influenced by the diet of the buffaloes. The texture is slightly firmer and creamier due to its higher fat content, making it more moist. When cut, buffalo mozzarella shows more elasticity, but it feels soft and easy to chew in the mouth. Naturally, buffalo mozzarella is more expensive.
Do you know that the term "mozzarella" made its debut in a mid-16th century cookbook written by Bartolomeo Scappi, chef to the Papal Court? In his culinary musings, he described mozzarella as a cheese exclusively crafted from buffalo milk. Chef Scappi, known for cooking for at least three popes, had incorporated mozzarella into his repertoire of delectable dishes.
Next, we enjoyed the Gnocchi Di Patate Con Granchio, Mascarpone E Pistacchio (potato gnocchi with crab, mascarpone and pistachio) (RM 51). Handcrafted potato gnocchi was paired with crab meat, mascarpone cheese cream, onions and pistachios, and topped with microgreens. This is one of Gustoso's signature dishes, created by Chef Mario. The thimble-sized potato dumplings were pillowy soft and scrumptious, especially when served with the creamy umami crab sauce. At the Italian table, gnocchi typically find a place as a primo piatto, or first course although it is substantial enough to be eaten as an entrée.
Spaghetti Ai Frutti Di Mare (spaghetti with seafood) (RM 54) features al dente spaghetti tossed with an assortment of mixed seafood in a tomato sauce, infused with garlic, basil, parsley and a sprinkle of microgreens. "Frutti di Mare" which literally means "fruit of the sea" and often includes mussels, clams, prawns and other shellfish. The key lies in not overcooking the fresh seafood, allowing their natural juices to enrich the sauce. When savouring this dish, I would add a generous amount of cracked black pepper for extra heat.
Another dish that I relished was the Filetto Di Branzino (RM 55) – a grilled seabass fillet served with a refreshing salad of fennel, olives, orange slices and crunchy garden greens. An orange dressing was served on the side, allowing you to adjust the quantity to taste. The fish was cooked just right, flaking easily while remaining tender and moist.
Interestingly in Italy, grilling fish is an old tradition, particularly in coastal regions where seafood is aplenty. Italian chefs often adhere to a philosophy of simplicity, deploying basic marinades of olive oil, herbs and citrus to accentuate the natural flavours of the fish without overwhelming it. The dish should always allow the premium-quality ingredients to shine through on the plate.
Cannelloni Al Forno Con Trito Di Manzo (RM 44) is a baked offering of handmade pasta tubes filled with a mixture of minced beef and finely chopped vegetables. Topped with a velvety béchamel sauce and grated Parmesan cheese, this dish is then baked till golden.
Cannelloni holds a cherished place in Italian cuisine, particularly in the central and southern regions. The marriage of tender pasta, savoury meat filling and creamy béchamel sauce creates a dish that embodies the warmth and conviviality of Italian dining.
Béchamel sauce, on the other hand, traces its origins to French culinary traditions. Named after Louis de Béchamel, a seventeenth-century French steward to King Louis XIV, the sauce is a testament to French gastronomy. However, its refinement and widespread popularity are credited to François Pierre de la Varenne, a prominent French chef of the time. The basic recipe for béchamel sauce comprises flour, butter and milk, with additional seasonings like salt, pepper and nutmeg to enhance its flavour profile.
To conclude the meal, we ordered the Trio Di Dolci Dello Chef (RM 38), a chef’s signature collection of petite servings of tiramisu, panna cotta and cannoli. It proved to be a challenge to pick a favourite among the trio. The tiramisu was a heavenly blend of decadence and creaminess, leaving us craving more, while the cannoli – crisp, fluted pastry tubes generously filled with ricotta cheese, candied fruits, chocolate chips and chopped pistachios – was equally irresistible.
Another dessert I would eagerly order again is Delizia Al Cioccolato (chocolate delight) (RM 33) – freshly baked by the resort's pastry chef. This decadent chocolate lava cake is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a zesty lemon macaroon, crushed biscuits and fresh strawberries. It has a cakey exterior with a delicious centre of warm, flowing dark chocolate. Handsomely chocolaty and rich, it is a satisfying indulgence.
At Gustoso, you are spoiled for choice with seating options. Whether you prefer the cool comfort of indoor air-conditioned surroundings, the serene views of the landscaped gardens outdoors, or the breathtaking backdrop of the Andaman Sea at the beachfront, there is a spot for every mood. Having experienced dining at various times, both during bustling peak hours and quieter moments, I can attest to the versatility of the experience.
Given PARKROYAL's popularity as a resort destination, especially during peak seasons, patience is indeed a virtue when dining during busier times. Despite the hustle, the staff remains cheerful, ensuring efficiency amid the rush. For a more relaxed experience, I would recommend opting for a leisurely lunch at Gustoso to escape the madding crowd.
For couples seeking a romantic evening, the beachfront offers an enchanting setting with glorious sunsets and alfresco dining under the stars. However, it is worth noting that the beach is a public space bustling with various activities, from water sports to horseback riding. To savour a quieter ambience, consider dining later in the evening to avoid the beachgoers and fully immerse in the romantic atmosphere.
Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
4 May 2024
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Gustoso By The Beach
PARKROYAL Penang Resort, 11100 Batu Ferringhi, Penang, Malaysia
T: +604-886 2288
Open: 11 am – 10.30 pm
PS: Many thanks for the warm hospitality, the lovely red balloons and the delightful chocolate birthday cake. You have made my daughter's birthday memorable and truly special. Your thoughtfulness and kindness are deeply appreciated.