Lunchtime elegance – experiencing the set lunch at Suffolk House
On my 56th birthday in January, Cindy and Dorothy, two cherished friends, treated me to a scrumptious luncheon at the charming Suffolk House. This rare surviving Georgian mansion in Penang, dating back to the 1800s, stands as a historical treasure that once served as the residence for successive British governors. The beautifully-restored Anglo-Indian mansion is imbued with an extra layer of enchantment by a sprawling garden and even a running brook. The setting provided a lovely backdrop for our celebration, making the day even more special and memorable.
We began our meal with a choice of soup or salad; my friends opted for the shiitake and abalone mushroom soup with local relish and grana padano, topped with some toasted croutons. The rich blend of earthy mushrooms and the savoury "notes" of grana padano cheese, increased the indulgence to the creamy soup.
I opted for the petite salad, a medley of flavours combining fish rillettes, umami-rich miso emulsion, zesty local pickles and watermelon cubes, all harmonised by the subtle chrysanthemum dressing. The term "rillettes" aptly describes the fish that is cooked, preserved and served in its own fat or oil, providing a flavourful and textured element to this salad.
For the main course, Dorothy and Cindy ordered the seared sea bass, served with an orangey gazpacho made with momotaro tomatoes and assam jawa (tamarind paste). The dish was garnished with dill, some local greens and blue petals of the bunga telang, accompanied by a vibrant green foam, creating an arresting visual feast. The seared sea bass, paired with the flavourful broth, truly titillated the palate, offering a captivating and delicious culinary experience.
I enjoyed the chicken ballotine stuffed with roasted butternut and diced stone fruit, seasoned with a touch of savoury rendang spices. Accompanied by roasted tomatoes, the surprising tenderness of the chicken made it an excellent and satisfying choice.
To conclude our luncheon, we indulged in a sweet treat of ice cream and cake, accompanied by a choice of freshly brewed coffee or tea. Additionally, the good service at Suffolk House ensured an enjoyable experience. A special thank you to Cindy and Dorothy for a delightful luncheon filled with great company and delectable cuisine.
The culinary mastermind behind the delicious luncheon, Executive Chef Mathijs Nanne, originally from the Netherlands, showcased his skilful culinary journey from Sydney to Malaysia. My first encounter with Chef Mathijs at Green Acres in Balik Pulau in 2017 left a lasting impression, as his inventive cooking style brilliantly infuses local ingredients and flavours into his culinary creations.
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
7 January 2024
Suffolk House
250, Jalan Ayer Itam, 10460 Penang (next to the Malaysian-German Society)
Tel: +604 – 228 3930
Suffolk House exclusively offers course-based dining for both lunch and dinner. The set meals include a soup or salad, a main course, a dessert and the choice of coffee or tea. The set dinner offerings are a more elaborate affair.
At Suffolk House, lunch and dinner are served in the grand ballroom with the popular high tea is enjoyed at the north terrace. The enchanting dining halls within this historic mansion, rich in both history and heritage, make it an ideal venue for celebrations and private functions.