Pomelo kerabu, tu ka chor, inchi kabin and more at Sifu Nyonya Cuisine
Sifu Nyonya Cuisine, located at Jalan Pintal Tali, offers an authentic Nyonya dining experience. At the culinary helm of the restaurant is 71-year-old Madam Beh Geok Wah, whose culinary prowess is showcased through a menu featuring over 40 dishes. Some recipes are cherished heirlooms passed down through generations, ensuring that the essence of Nyonya cooking is preserved with every flavourful bite.
With only four in our party, we opted for small portions that spanned an array of offerings at Sifu. As a first-time visitor, I was unsure of what to order. Typically, I prefer a selection of various dishes to encompass a range of tastes and textures. Curating the right combination, I believe, is key in creating a memorable dining experience.
Among the offerings of the evening, my favourite dish had to be the tu kar chor – tender, gelatinous pork trotters braised in a black vinegar sauce. While many Nyonya pork dishes have their roots in Chinese cuisine, they often undergo Nyonya adaptations utilising aromatic roots and spices like star anise, cloves and coriander. Dishes like hong bak, loh bak, tau eu bak and heh ya kay fall under the umbrella of Nyonya cuisine, but tu kar chor does not. Although its precise origin is hard to pinpoint, it appears to be enjoyed by the Hokkien, Hakka and Cantonese communities.
In my family, this traditional Chinese dish holds a special place, often prepared by my Mum as a confinement necessity to boost postnatal immunity for women. However, she also makes it regularly, turning it into a beloved family dish. Using a combination of both old and young ginger, she adds depth with the heat from the former and the easy-to-consume texture of the latter, which is sans any fibre. Having learned to cook this dish from Mum, I was pleasantly surprised by the authenticity of the version served at Sifu.
We also had a serving of the aromatic inchi kabin (Nyonya fried chicken). The bite-size pieces were well marinated with spices. The dish arrived at the table piping hot and the chicken was crispy on the outside, encasing moist and tender flesh within. While it was accompanied by some chilli sauce, I would have welcomed having the original dipping sauce of Worcestershire sauce and English mustard at hand.
The refreshing pomelo kerabu (spicy pomelo salad) was a first-time experience for me. Infused with finely sliced kaffir lime leaves and a topping of chopped bunga kantan (torch ginger flower), this appetiser offered a harmonious blend of sourness, spiciness and saltiness. The pulpy texture of the pomelo added a delightful element to each bite.
Should this dish be reinvent at home, I would also add in a generous amount of sliced shallots, heh bee (dried shrimp), cabai burung (bird's eye chili) and a drizzle of sesame seed oil. In an effort to accentuate the freshness of pomelo pulp, I would omit the potent sambal belacan, opting to only balance its taste with calamansi lime juice, some sugar and salt. I believe that option would contribute to a more dynamic interplay of textures in the pomelo salad.
The gulai tumis (hot and sour fish curry) with stingray and ladies' fingers, topped with mint leaves, was a lip-smacking infusion of sweet, sour and spicy notes. The curry, perfumed with the distinct aroma of lemongrass and bunga kantan, proved to be nothing short of scrumptious.
The assam heh (tamarind fried prawns) dish had a bold and tart flavour accentuating the briny sweet taste of the prawns. The caramelised tamarind sauce, coating each prawn, was truly delicious. Despite its unassuming appearance, prawns prepared this way are incredibly appetising. However, when cooking this dish at home, I would always choose large-size ocean-caught white shrimps – as their size and freshness significantly contribute to the enjoyable experience of biting into sweet, succulent flesh. I would also refrain from deshelling the shrimps to protect them from scorching. This Nyonya delicacy serves as an excellent accompaniment to nasi lemak.
Do you know that prawns and shrimps, although often used interchangeably, belong to different species? While you can find both prawns and shrimps in both fresh and saltwater, the majority prawns you buy from the market will be from freshwater sources and the shrimps will be from saltwater. Prawns have claws on three legs and a straighter body, releasing fertilised eggs into the water. Shrimps, on the other hand have claws on two legs, a distinctive bend in their shape and the habit of carrying their eggs on the underside of their bodies.
Next in the line-up was ji hu char – julienned bangkwang (jicama), carrots, cabbage and onions cooked with a mix of mushrooms and dried cuttlefish. The shiitake mushrooms and cuttlefish impart their unmistakable umami flavours to the dish. The key to savouring ji hu char lies in pairing it with some fiery sambal belacan, wrapped into a parcel with fresh lettuce leaves. Be sure to order a plate of crisp lettuce leaves for wrapping.
Another signature dish of Sifu is the nasi ulam, a blue-coloured mixed herb rice served with half a salted egg and homemade sambal belacan. Growing up in a Chinese Peranakan household in Penang, the nasi ulam I enjoy is very different from this rendition. In my family's version, the rice is tinted yellow using fresh turmeric instead of the blue hue from butterfly pea flowers. Also when preparing this dish, my Mum always emphasised the importance of allowing the rice to cool before tossing in the herbs and ingredients, preventing the finely cut herbs from wilting. This version served at Sifu appears to have a Kelantanese influence, evident in its colour and the inclusion of the salted egg.
For a sweet finale, we sampled bubur cha cha (a medley of sweet potatoes, taro and black-eye peas in a coconut milk sauce), bee koh moy (black glutinous rice porridge with dried longans) and gandum (wheat porridge with coconut milk and palm sugar). All three desserts, although tasting rather different, were rich with the creamy goodness of santan (coconut milk).
Peter Leong (a general insurance consultant), the amiable owner has taken on the role of a restaurateur with the establishment of Sifu Nyonya Cuisine. Driven by his passion for Nyonya cuisine, he embarked on this culinary journey and established Sifu in 2019. Despite the challenging years brought about by the pandemic, Peter remained steadfast in his belief that a family-oriented restaurant serving authentic Nyonya cuisine, would not only weather the storm but also become a cherished dining destination.
Peter clarifies that the name "Sifu" means an appreciation of one's good fortune rather than the common assumption of "a grand master" when read in English. Reflecting on this, one is reminded of the words of Oprah Winfrey, who once said, "Be thankful for what you have, you'll end up having more. If you concentrate on what you don't have, you will never, ever have enough". Embracing this ethos, Sifu Nyonya Cuisine encapsulates the essence of gratitude and the joy that comes from cherishing life's blessings – a sentiment that undoubtedly adds a special touch to the dining experience.
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Sifu Nyonya Cuisine
154, Jalan Pintal Tali (Rope Walk), 10100 George Town, Penang
T: +604-305 1867, +6012-410 6688
Open: 11.30 am – 3.00 pm, 6.00 pm – 9.45 pm on weekdays except Wednesdays; 11.30 am – 9.45 pm on weekends
Sifu is furnished with only seven tables, creating a cozy ambience. Advance booking is highly recommended.
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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
30 January 2024