Lao Hakka Cafe: a culinary haven of traditional Hakka flavours

At Lao Hakka, the unpretentious Hakka cuisine comes alive, with each dish serving as a testament to the transformation of ordinary ingredients into extraordinary experiences. The cooking style of the Hakka people, also known as Hakka or Kuh-chia cuisine, originated mainly from the provinces of Guangdong, Fujian, Jiangxi and Guangxi. Its comforting home-style dishes are known for their distinct flavours and aromatic meat-centric options such as stuffed tofu (yong tau foo), braised pork belly with taro and stuffed bitter gourd. The Hakka cuisine primarily features rice, pork, tofu and preserved vegetables. Of course being in Penang, some local favourites such as crispy belacan chicken and savoury gulai tumis (fish curry) are also featured on the menu.

Here are some of my favourites at Lao Hakka. The flavourful golden rice, cooked with Chinese waxed meat and infused with Asian seasonings, is served in a hollowed-out pumpkin, an edible golden vessel that beckons with promises of culinary delight. The earthy sweet flavour of the soft pumpkin flesh is a perfect companion to the savoury rice, making the dish hearty and truly satisfying dish. The pumpkin must have been steamed and the rice cooked separately before being assembled together and topped with diced spring onions prior to serving.

However, there is more to this dish than meets the eye – beyond its delicious taste, the pumpkin is packed with vitamins and minerals as well. Although the pumpkin is believed to be native to Central America and Mexico, it must have made its way across the globe including to China. Today, the pumpkin holds a significant place in Chinese cuisine, offering a delightful array of flavours and textures in various regional dishes. From savoury to sweet, the pumpkin is a versatile ingredient that adds depth and complexity to countless traditional recipes including this dish served at Lao Hakka.

Another must-order dish at Lao Hakka is its signature Hakka "abacus beads". This Hakka classic has circular flat disc-shape dough resembling Chinese abacus beads, thus earning its evocative name. Crafted from taro and tapioca flour, the "abacus beads" have a soft and chewy texture, reminiscent of the gnocchi. The "beads" are stir-fried with chives, lard and shiitake mushrooms. The wok hey (breath of the wok) adds a lovely smoky aroma to the dish.

This dish holds cultural significance within the Hakka community, especially during the Chinese Lunar New Year. The round beads symbolise reunion, embodying wishes for prosperity and abundance in the coming year.

The Hakka-style braised pork belly slices interlaced with thick slices of taro, is another classic dish to have on the table. Renowned as one of the most cherished Hakka dishes, this creation is an ode to the exquisite interplay of melt-in-your-mouth pork belly, buttery-soft taro and robust flavours that dance on the taste buds. The dish is seasoned with red fermented bean curd, star anise, five spice powder, Shaoxing wine, oyster sauce, pepper and both dark and light soy sauce. The version here is exceptionally tasty!

The appetising stingray curry is a treasure trove of flavours, featuring ingredients such as chillies, tamarind pulp, lemongrass, turmeric, belacan and bunga kantan (torch ginger bud). These elements form the very essence that underlines the aromatic profile of the unique "gulai tumis" taste. Gulai tumis is a Nyonya fish curry that beautifully balances tangy, spicy and salty flavours. I am glad that the lip-smacking curry deploys the use of freshly ground ingredients and not pre-made curry powder. The tender stingray flesh and ladies' fingers immersed in this delectable dish evoke cherished memories of home-cooked meals in a typical Nyonya household, much like my own.

For greens, blanched bok choy smothered with a thick homemade "village" sauce is among many options on the menu to consider.

To conclude the dining experience, one may, like us, choose this delightfully refreshing chilled dessert. It is a mix of gelatinous peach gum resin, shreds of preserved nutmeg, fresh mint leaves, slices of zesty lime and lemon, sweetened with some syrup.

The menu at Lao Hakka has a wide spread of Hakka delights, offering a culinary adventure for those willing to explore. For the more daring palate, consider indulging in the stir-fried pig head skin with radish or savour some tender pig lungs with pineapple or chitterlings with pineapple. Its authenticity has solidified Lao Hakka as a favoured choice among the locals for scrumptious Hakka food. Service is good and it is advisable to pre-order your favourite dishes to avoid disappointment.

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
19 November 2023

Lao Hakka Cafe
Chinese Swimming Club Penang
562, Tanjung Bungah Road, 11200 Penang
Tel: +6017-418 8212
Open: 11 am - 3 pm, 6 pm - 10 pm except Mondays

In November 2013, Lao Hakka restaurant started off in Balik Pulau. It then moved to its current location at the Chinese Swimming Club (CSC) Penang in May 2015. If you are a member of CSC, you can enjoy simple meals like a bowl of Hakka noodles or Hakka rice after a swim. Two of my favourite drinks during meals include the chilled honey with lemon and the fizzy lemongrass with a mint concoction.