Exploring Mexican flavours at Holy Guacamole

Worldwide, very few cuisines can boast of a longer culinary lineage than Mexican food. Some believe it dates back as far back as 9,000 years to 7000 BC, beginning with its presence in indigenous communities such as the Mayans and other Mesoamerican civilisations. Throughout millennia of refinement and influences from various sources, including indigenous cultures and the Spanish colonisation, Mexican's rich food culture is today loved and enjoyed by millions all over the world. Incidentally, Mexico is also among the very few countries worldwide to have its cuisine being listed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Here in Penang, Holy Guacamole serves some Mexican staples like nachos, burritos and tacos as well as a handful of international options like satay, pizzas, pastas and burgers. The restaurant is set in a double-storey shop house along Penang's nightlife hub in Love Lane.

Stepping into Holy Guacamole, one cannot help but be surrounded by colourful and eye-catching "Day of the Dead" murals. They instantly reminded me of one of my all time favourite Pixar movies, the fantastical Coco which places Mexican culture and tradition at centre stage in the best possible light. Although the movie takes place in the netherworld, it is completely upbeat, just like the deco of Holy Guacamole. Illuminated by UV light, the Mexican-themed murals come alive, looking almost surreal and glowing with an ultraviolet vibrancy. They create a charming backdrop, perfect for capturing some intriguing photo opportunities, especially when one is donning a sombrero (a broad-brimmed felt or straw hat).

I do enjoy good Mexican food, but have to confess that I cannot always tell if what I am eating is truly authentic. Although I had some lovely Mexican food in Tijuana, the Mexican meals I had in San Francisco were the ones that left a lasting impression. It is obvious that in the USA, Mexican cuisine has significantly influenced American food culture, giving birth to Tex-Mex cuisine (a fusion of northern Mexico food with Southwestern Texas cooking). According to some food experts, the most notable difference between Tex-Mex and Mexican food is the variation in ingredients used such as yellow cheese, cumin and beef in the former.

To start off our meal, we had some golden, crispy squid rings served with a creamy dipping sauce. Interestingly, this appetiser, although common around the world today, is likely to have an Italian or Mediterranean origin. Regardless, the squid rings were tender and delicious.

Next up were the chamoy chicken wings – spicy chicken drumettes and mid-wings coated in a sweet and tangy mango chamoy sauce. The chamoy sauce, a popular Mexican sweet and spicy condiment, was a great way to "amp up" flavours in this dish.

The quesadillas – a grilled flour tortilla "sandwich" filled with chicken, cheese, jalapenos and pico de gallo – was another item we ordered. Cut into quarters, the slices were served alongside some salsa roja. Traditionally, quesadillas are made with corn tortillas and filled only with cheese. The word “quesadilla” is derived from the Spanish word “queso,” which means cheese. Over time, quesadillas have evolved to include a variety of fillings, like the type we enjoyed that evening. I love the slightly crispy tortillas and the spicy dipping sauce. In addition to chicken, other filler options included beef, tuna and mushrooms.

The hearty Los Burritos, a complete meal in itself, was scrumptious! It was a wrap encasing cheese, rice, frijoles (beans), lettuces, salsa roja and your choice of fillings – chicken, beef, mushrooms or the chef's special (with omelette and chicken). On the menu, there is also a vegan option. On that particular day, we chose the chicken option and were very happy with it.

Do you know that "burrito” is Spanish for “little donkey”? There are various explanations for the name but it is without a sure winner since its origin is uncertain. Do you also know that there is a National Burrito Day celebrated on the first Thursday in April? In 2021, it coincidentally fell on April Fool’s Day, but it was definitely no joke!

The classic chicken fajitas was a flavourful dish that arrived at the table sizzling hot! Strips of succulent chicken, topping caramelised onions stir-fried with both red and green bell peppers. Served on the side were flour tortillas folded into quarters, guacamole, sour cream, pico de gallo, shredded cheese and a lime wedge. For this entrée, diners can choose either chicken, beef, mushroom and prawns.

I am glad a cast iron skillet was used for searing as it provided a nice char aroma to the dish. A simple squeeze of fresh lime over the chicken added a zesty kick. The creamy guacamole with hints of citrus tang was also brilliant. With only a handful of ingredients, this mouthwatering Mexican offering had just the right combination of flavours.

Fajitas were developed relatively recently, in contrast to many Mexican recipes that have a long history. The dish dates back to cattle ranching life along the Rio Grande Valley regions of the Texas-Mexico border in the 1930s, popularised by Mexican-American ranch workers. Fajitas seem to have made the quantum leap from campfire and backyard grill obscurity to commercial sales in the 1960s and has gained stellar recognition today.

We also tried the somewhat spicy and well prepared aglio olio mushroom pasta. This meatless dish had various kinds of mushrooms. Next time around, I would focus more on its Mexican offerings. We were just too happy indulging in the meal and enjoying each others' company that we forgot to save some room for dessert.

We were there early and opted for seats upstairs to avoid the large crowd that would gather later in the evening to catch the live music (either a band or DJ) on the ground floor. The restaurant offers a variety of cocktails including margaritas, daiquiris, long island teas and mai tais, as well as beers, liquors, wines, and other non-alcoholic beverages. What is even better is its extended happy hour, which runs from 12 noon to 10 pm daily.

Authentic Mexican food is more than just something you eat – it is something you experience. Traditional Mexican food has a vibrant history and is tied to the heart of Mexican culture and values. Like Chinese Peranakan cuisine, many of Mexico’s most emblematic dishes are linked to festivals and holidays where sharing meals is intrinsic to social life in such communities. Indeed, one of the best ways to understand Mexican heritage is to understand its food. Given their love for the genuine flavours and customs that make Mexican food such a treasured part of their culture. I cannot help but wonder how a true-blue Mexican food enthusiast would assess this place.

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Holy Guacamole
65, Love Lane, 10200, Georget Town, Penang, Malaysia
Open daily: 12 noon to 2 am
T: +6017-482 9065

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
Updated: 29 July 2023

PS: According to Merriam Webster:

The English word avocado is a transliteration first used in the late 1600s of the Spanish word aguacate, which came from the Nahuatl name for the indigenous fruit, āhuacatl. A corruption of aguacate led to another term for the fruit, alligator pear, and because of the shape of the fruit, avocado pear is a term used in British English.

One of the most popular ways to prepare avocado is as guacamole, the mashed mixture with tomatoes and onion. Guacamole also has roots in the Nahuatl word āhuacatl, blended with the Mexican Spanish word for “sauce,” mole (pronounced \MOH-lay\), which itself comes from the Nahuatl word for “sauce,” mōlli.

The shape of avocados wasn’t compared only to pears: the original Nahuatl word also means 'testicle'. There is no guacamole equivalent for this meaning, perhaps thankfully.