Auntie Gaik Lean Old School Eatery – Chinese Peranakan cuisine cooked with love

Having been born into a Chinese Peranakan family, I often find myself leaning towards other cuisines – be it Chinese, Thai, Italian, Japanese, Vietnamese, Continental, Mexican, Indian or Malay – when dining out, unless I am hosting guests from abroad who crave for Nyonya cuisine. If time permits, I will roll up my sleeves and whip up a Nyonya feast, ensuring that my guests leave Penang with a lasting impression of the vibrant and distinct flavours that Nyonya dishes are imbued with.

My eldest sister Elizabeth, or as we all lovingly call her, Lizzy, is seriously something when it comes to cooking. Our family and friends can vouch for her finger-licking good mutton korma, nasi briyani, nasi lemuni, Siamese laksa, mee Jawa, ayam masak merah, daging masak hitam, sup ekor – you name it, she nails it. She is like a culinary superstar in our circle. Being married to Salim Yusof for more than half a century, she picked up these amazing cooking skills from a neighbour and her "adopted" sister Kak Zainab. She is not just a wizard in the kitchen, she is a proud mother of three sons and a doting grandmother to five. To celebrate Lizzy's 70th birthday, what could be a more fitting venue than the one Michelin-starred Auntie Gaik Lean Old School Eatery? It is like coming full circle, a nostalgia trip to relish those mouth-watering dishes Mum cooks that shaped Lizzy's taste buds.

Understanding the importance of getting the "right" dishes on the table, I personally took it upon myself to curate a delightful lineup, paired with good ol' plain steamed white rice. That way, the flavours of each dish gets to dance front and centre, sans any distractions. Let us run down the long list of dishes I selected to mark Lizzy's milestone birthday celebration.

For appetizers, I could not resist going for some lor bak, served on the side with slices of cucumber and a chilli dipping sauce. This classic offering had tender strips of chicken marinated with aromatic ngoh hiang hoon (5-spice powder), encased in beancurd sheets and deep-fried. Auntie Gaik Lean (Beh Gaik Lean) was quick to point out that if one were to add anything else to the filling such as yam bean, taro or water chestnuts, her late Peranakan maestro teacher Datuk Lim Bian Yam would call it 'bong kang!' (a colloquial term for a fool). Although she is a fourth-generation Nyonya who started cooking at an early age under her mother’s strict supervision, it was Datuk Lim who taught her how to sharpen her culinary skills further. He was a recipient of the Penang Heritage Trust’s living heritage award, recognised for his expertise as a chef and floral artiste.

Moving on to the vegetable section, I set my sights on three dishes, each bringing something different to the table. First up was the kerabu kacang botol (spicy winged bean salad). The fresh kacang botol are tossed with an in-house sambal and thinly sliced shallots, topped with bunga kantan (torch ginger flower) and red chillies. The Nyonyas are brilliant at balancing flavours and here, Auntie Gaik Lean does it beautifully.

Following the lineup was ji hu char – julienned bangkwang (jicama), carrots, cabbage and onions cooked with a mix of mushrooms and dried cuttlefish. The scrumptious dish had a distinct umani twist. The secret to truly enjoying ji hu char is with some good sambal belacan, wrapped into a parcel with fresh lettuce leaves. Auntie Gaik Lean divulged that she would add some taucheo (salted fermented soy beans) to the dish (as would my Mum). She also emphasised that all the hand-cut vegetables have been thoroughly rinsed prior to cooking so that the dish would not "spoil" easily.

Among the trio, the sambal brinjal was my favourite. Soft tender deep-fried eggplant slices were topped with a spicy sambal. This delectable signature dish, one of her mother's recipes, woke up my taste buds in the best way possible.

For chicken choices, I went with inche kabin and hong kay. The inche kabin bite-size pieces had a tender interior encased with a crispy exterior. The dish was accompanied with prawn crackers and a dipping sauce (the classic Worcestershire sauce with cut chillies).

Hong kay is the epitome of comfort food done right, bringing a little piece of warmth and indulgence to one's plate. The coriander powder, taucheo and cekur ginger root blend shares their recognisable flavours in this dish. Auntie Gaik Lean mentioned that she would add some kunyit (turmeric) to the dish as well, shading it with a yellowish tint.

We also had a serving of egg belanda – fried eggs cooked with onions and cabai burong (bird's eye chilli) in a light sweet and sour tamarind gravy, topped with spring onions and fresh red chillies. Auntie Gaik Lean explained that the gravy was kept light and less sourish to cater to a broader palate.

For fish, I ordered a serving of the tantalising acar hu. The magic of acar hu lies in its balanced flavours of sour, sweet and salty. The vibrant turmeric sun yellow coloured the vinegary gravy. I am glad ample time was given for the gravy to penetrate the golden deep-fried garoupa fillets. When I make this dish at home, I would use chee ya hu (silver mullets) and add blanched whole shallots, garlic cloves, carrot, chillies and cabai burong to further elevate the experience.

The gulai tumis (hot and sour fish curry) with stingray and ladies' fingers was delectable. Using fresh ingredients, the textured gravy was fragrant and full of delicious goodness!

Next to arrive was the sambal sotong (squid sambal) where the tender sotong pieces were cooked just right. Many at the table enjoyed the assam haeh (tamarind prawns), otak-otak and kerabu bihun too. The table was laden with just so much good food and we indulged ourselves till our hearts' content.

I could not help but notice that Auntie Gaik Lean does not salt or sweeten her dishes to the extreme as she is working with freshly blended rempah (spice paste). In this way, while taking time to enjoy every mouthful, one can appreciate the wonderful taste of herbs and spices used. For those accustomed to something more potent, one could always ask for some tau eu (soy sauce) to sprinkle over the dishes (but please do not).

I truly appreciate the delightful addition of complimentary pie tee (ho ciak-lo!) and desserts – warm servings of bee kor moi and pengat. The use of fresh santan (coconut milk) in the delicious desserts made all the difference. I am glad that Auntie Gaik Lean cuts the taro and potatoes for the pengat in uniformed diamond shape as my family do.

I was happy to see that business that evening was good with the electrifying hustle and bustle of diners. Upon returning from Singapore in 2013, Auntie Gaik Lean's son Adrian established the restaurant. Through the years, the restaurant garnered a string of loyal supporters. However, when the pandemic hit, business was badly affected and Adrian lamented on the dire financial strain the restaurant was under. He persevered to keep it afloat and I am glad he did. In December 2022, the restaurant received a remarkable accolade, being one of four restaurants to be awarded a star in the inaugural Michelin Guide Malaysia, representing "high quality cooking" with dishes that are "worth a stop". Two were in Penang and two in Kuala Lumpur. When asked about the award, Auntie Gaik Lean said that it was a recognition of Penang’s Peranakan heritage and is happy that it was highlighted on the international level, not just for the restaurant.

Back in her twenties, Auntie Gaik Lean first learned her trade cooking at Motorola's kitchen. Eventually she established her own business, supplying meals to the canteens of various multinational companies including Intel, Seagate and Dell. From those early days until the present, she remains dedicated to using locally sourced ingredients and crafting her rempah from scratch for every recipe. This commitment to using the finest ingredients to create authentic flavours is reflected in her culinary ethos.

I was fortunate enough to have a moment with Auntie Gaik Lean outside her busy kitchen, allowing me to learn more about her. We clicked instantly and her charming disposition and sincerity won me over. Like Lizzy, Auntie Gaik Lean is also born in the Year of The Snake and turns 70 this year. She was generous in sharing information about the ingredients used in the dishes we enjoyed while many I have interviewed in the past would not. Like all good Nyonya cooks they would have their own recipes and methods of cooking but everyone of them all would insist on quality ingredients and unsurpassed standards.

Lizzy's birthday dinner at Auntie Gaik Lean's was truly something to cherish, and having my cousin Mona Cheah and her husband Chee Kiang all the way from Singapore with us made it an unforgettable occasion. As Lizzy blew out the candles on her cake, I could not help but send out my heartfelt wishes for her – may she be showered with good health and endless laughter.

PS: It was quite embarrassing when Mona and Chee Kiang, our guests for the evening, discreetly took care of settling the bill. Their generosity was truly heartwarming and I am so very thankful for their kind gesture.

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Auntie Gaik Lean Old School Eatery
1, Bishop Street, George Town, 10200 George Town, Penang
T: +60 17-434 4398
Open: 1 2 pm – 2.30 pm; 6 pm – 9.30 pm, except Mondays and Tuesdays

Occupying two shop lots in Lebuh Bishop, the spacious eatery was recently renovated, now awash with white, royal blue and gold, including a beautiful mural of Auntie Gaik Lean. During our visit, we had the private dining room, away from the main dining hall, that was adorned with a screen prop from the popular movie, "Crazy Rich Asians".

Given the restaurant's popularity among both locals and travellers in search of an authentic taste of old-school Chinese Peranakan cuisine, I recommend making a reservation to secure your spot. If you are looking forward to sampling certain dishes, pre-order them as well. As the restaurant is halal, there was no alcohol on the menu.

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
27 August 2023