Auntie Gaik Lean Old School Eatery – Chinese Peranakan cuisine cooked with love

Born into a Chinese Peranakan family, I often find my culinary cravings leaning towards other cuisines – whether it is Chinese, Thai, Italian, Japanese, Vietnamese, Continental, Mexican, Indian or Malay – when dining out, unless I am hosting guests from abroad who crave for Nyonya cuisine. Sometimes when time allows, I will gladly roll up my sleeves and prepare a Nyonya feast to ensure that they depart Penang with a lasting impression of the vibrant and unique flavours that define Nyonya cuisine.

My eldest sister, Elizabeth – though everyone fondly calls her Lizzy – is truly remarkable when it comes to cooking. Family and friends alike can attest to her finger-licking mutton korma, nasi briyani, nasi lemuni, Siamese laksa, mee Jawa, ayam masak merah, daging masak hitam and sup ekor – you name it, she nails it every time. In our circle, she is nothing short of a culinary superstar. Having been married to Salim for over half a century, Lizzy picked up her exceptional cooking skills for Malay dishes from her neighbour and “adopted” sister, Kak Zainab. But she is more than just a kitchen wizard; she is also a proud mother of three sons and a devoted grandmother to five.

To celebrate Lizzy’s 70th birthday, we could not imagine a more fitting venue than Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery, with its one Michelin star. This choice was like coming full circle – a nostalgic return to the flavours Mum cooked, the very ones that shaped Lizzy’s discerning taste buds. Understanding the importance of getting the “right” dishes on the table, I personally took charge of curating a delightful lineup, each dish paired with simple, steamed white rice to let the flavours shine, free from any distractions. So, let us take a look at the feast I selected to mark this milestone in Lizzy’s life – a true celebration of her and the culinary legacy she continues to enrich.

For appetisers, I could not resist selecting lor bak, served alongside slices of cucumber and a chilli dipping sauce. This classic dish featured tender strips of chicken, marinated with aromatic ngoh hiang hoon (five-spice powder), encased in beancurd sheets and deep-fried. Auntie Gaik Lean (Beh Gaik Lean) was quick to mention that if one were to add anything else to the filling, such as yam bean, taro, or water chestnuts, her late Peranakan maestro teacher, Datuk Lim Bian Yam, would have called it “bong kang!” – a colloquial term meaning “fool.” Although she is a fourth-generation Nyonya who began cooking at an early age under her mother’s strict supervision, it was Datuk Lim who taught her how to refine her culinary skills further. A recipient of the Penang Heritage Trust’s Living Heritage Award, Datuk Lim was widely recognised for his expertise as both a chef and a floral artist, a true testament to his exceptional talents.

Moving on to the vegetable selection, I set my sights on three dishes, each offering its own distinctive flair. First up was the kerabu kacang botol (spicy winged bean salad). Fresh kacang botol were tossed with an in-house sambal and thinly sliced shallots, then topped with bunga kantan (torch ginger flower) and red chillies. The Nyonyas are masters of balancing flavours, and here, Auntie Gaik Lean does it so well.

Next in the lineup was ji hu char – a medley of julienned bangkwang (jicama), carrots, cabbage and onions cooked together with a mix of mushrooms and dried cuttlefish. This scrumptious dish had a distinct umami twist. The secret to truly savouring ji hu char lies in pairing it with a generous dab of sambal belacan, wrapped up in fresh lettuce leaves to create a flavourful parcel. Auntie Gaik Lean divulged that she would add some taucheo (salted fermented soy beans) to the dish (as would my Mum). She also emphasised that all the hand-cut vegetables have been thoroughly rinsed prior to cooking so that the dish would not "spoil" easily.

Of the trio, the sambal brinjal was undoubtedly my favourite. Soft, tender slices of deep-fried eggplant were topped with a vibrant, spicy sambal, creating a delectable signature dish that instantly awakened my taste buds. A cherished recipe passed down from her mother, this dish exemplified the rich flavours that Auntie Gaik Lean so beautifully brings to life.

For the chicken selection, I chose inche kabin and hong kay. The bite-sized pieces of inche kabin had a tender interior encased in a perfectly crispy exterior. This dish was served with prawn crackers and a classic dipping sauce of Worcestershire sauce with sliced chillies.

Hong kay is the epitome of comfort food done right, bringing a touch of warmth and indulgence to the plate. The blend of coriander powder, taucheo (fermented soybeans) and cekur (sand ginger) deploys its distinct and recognisable flavours to this dish. Auntie Gaik Lean noted that she also adds a hint of kunyit (turmeric), lending the dish a subtle yellow tint.

We also had a serving of egg belanda – fried eggs cooked with onions and cabai burong (bird’s eye chilli) in a light, sweet-and-sour tamarind gravy, topped with spring onions and fresh red chillies. Auntie Gaik Lean explained that the gravy was kept light and less sourish to cater to a broader palate.

For fish, I ordered a serving of the tantalising acar hu. The magic of acar hu lies in its harmonious balance of sour, sweet and salty flavours, with the vibrant turmeric lending a sun-kissed yellow hue to the vinegary gravy. I was glad that ample time had been allowed for the gravy to penetrate the golden, deep-fried garoupa fillets. When I prepare this dish at home, I typically use chee ya hu (silver mullets) and incorporate blanched whole shallots, garlic cloves, carrots, chillies and cabai burong to elevate the experience even further.

The gulai tumis (hot and sour fish curry) with stingray and ladies' fingers was absolutely delectable. Cooked with fresh ingredients, the textured gravy was fragrant and full of delicious goodness!

Next to arrive was the sambal sotong (squid sambal), where the tender pieces of sotong were cooked just right. Many at the table also enjoyed the assam haeh (tamarind prawns), otak-otak and kerabu bihun. The table was laden with an abundance of delicious food and we indulged ourselves to our hearts' content.

I could not help but notice that Auntie Gaik Lean does not excessively salt or sweeten her dishes, as she works with freshly blended rempah (spice paste). This approach allows one to savour each mouthful, fully appreciating the wonderful flavours of the herbs and spices used. For those accustomed to a more potent taste, there is the option to request some tau eu (soy sauce) to sprinkle over the dishes—though I would advise against it.

I truly appreciated the delightful addition of complimentary pie tee (ho ciak-lo!) and desserts – warm servings of bee kor moi and pengat. The use of fresh santan (coconut milk) in these delicious desserts made all the difference. I was particularly pleased to see that Auntie Gaik Lean cuts the taro and potatoes for the pengat into uniform diamond shapes, just as my family does.

I was happy to observe that business that evening was thriving, with the electrifying hustle and bustle of diners filling the restaurant. Upon returning from Singapore in 2013, Auntie Gaik Lean's son, Adrian, established the restaurant, which has garnered a loyal following over the years. However, the pandemic brought significant challenges, and Adrian lamented the dire financial strain the restaurant faced. He persevered to keep it afloat and I am glad he did. In December 2022, the restaurant received a remarkable accolade, being one of only four establishments awarded a star in the inaugural Michelin Guide Malaysia, recognised for "high-quality cooking" with dishes that are "worth a stop". Two of the recipients were in Penang, and two were in Kuala Lumpur. When asked about the award, Auntie Gaik Lean remarked that it was a recognition of Penang’s Peranakan heritage and she was delighted that it was highlighted on an international level, not just for the restaurant.

In her twenties, Auntie Gaik Lean first learned her craft while cooking in a Motorola kitchen. She eventually established her own business, supplying meals to the canteens of various multinational companies, including Intel, Seagate and Dell. From those early days to the present, she has remained dedicated to using locally sourced ingredients and crafting her rempah from scratch for every recipe. This commitment to sourcing the finest ingredients to create authentic flavours is a hallmark of her culinary ethos.

I was fortunate enough to have a moment with Auntie Gaik Lean outside her bustling kitchen, which allowed me to learn more about her. We clicked instantly and her charming disposition and sincerity won me over. Like Lizzy, Auntie Gaik Lean was also born in the Year of the Snake and turns 70 this year. She was generous in sharing information about the ingredients used in the dishes we enjoyed, a refreshing contrast to many whom I have interviewed in the past who would not share such details. While each accomplished Nyonya cook has their own recipes and methods, they all insist on the importance of quality ingredients and unsurpassed standards.

Lizzy's birthday dinner at Auntie Gaik Lean's was truly a cherished occasion, made even more special by the presence of my cousin Mona Cheah and her husband Chee Kiang, who travelled all the way from Singapore to join us. As Lizzy blew out the candles on her cake, I could not help but send out my heartfelt wishes for her – —may she be showered with good health and endless laughter in the years to come.

P.S.: It was quite embarrassing when Mona and Chee Kiang, our guests for the evening, discreetly took care of settling the bill. Their generosity was truly heartwarming and I am immensely grateful for their kind gesture.

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Auntie Gaik Lean Old School Eatery
1, Bishop Street, George Town, 10200 George Town, Penang
T: +60 17-434 4398
Open: 1 2 pm – 2.30 pm; 6 pm – 9.30 pm, except Mondays and Tuesdays

Occupying two shop lots on Lebuh Bishop, the spacious eatery has recently undergone renovation, now adorned in shades of white, royal blue and gold, featuring a beautiful mural of Auntie Gaik Lean herself. During our visit, we enjoyed the private dining room, which offered a secluded atmosphere away from the main dining hall and was adorned with a screen prop from the popular film "Crazy Rich Asians."

Given the restaurant's popularity among both locals and travellers in search of an authentic taste of old-school Chinese Peranakan cuisine, I highly recommend making a reservation to secure your spot. If you are particularly eager to sample certain dishes, consider pre-ordering them as well. As the restaurant is halal, there is no alcohol on the menu.

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
27 August 2023