Church of the Assumption, among Penang's historical landmarks
George Town, the vibrant heart of Penang, has perhaps one of the most diverse religious communities in Malaysia. Here, almost every religion has its own distinct religious architectural abode to serve believers.
Discovering these places of worship is made all the more rewarding by joining a guided heritage trail of George Town, particularly one that traverses the Street of Harmony. This offers a fascinating exploration of religious diversity, with landmarks situated remarkably close to one another. While the trail typically highlights Masjid Kapitan Keling, Sri Mahamariamman Temple, the Goddess of Mercy Temple and St George's Church, it is well worth extending your journey to include the Church of the Assumption.
A glimpse into the history of the church
Upon entering the Church of the Assumption, a plaque on the left wall records the names of priests who have served the parish since its earliest days. At the top of the list is Monsignor Arnold Garnault, who ministered from 1786 to 1792. In 1786, the first Catholic community in northern Malaya, originally based in Kuala Kedah, arrived in Penang on the eve of the Feast of the Assumption. Together with Bishop Garnault, they built a modest wooden church on Church Street, naming it the Church of the Assumption. Bishop Garnault's presbytery was situated on an adjacent street, which later came to be known as Bishop Street.
In 1802, the wooden structure was replaced by a brick building with a tower, which served the Catholic community until 1858, under the stewardship of Father Denis Jourdain, the last priest to serve at that location.
The church was then relocated to Farquhar Street, where the present structure was constructed in 1860 under the direction of Father Claude Manissol. By October of the following year, the newly built church, with a seating capacity of approximately 1,200, hosted its first Mass. Father Manissol is interred within the church, his grave marked by an inscribed marble slab on the floor.
The church underwent significant renovations in 1928, with the addition of two wings to its structure. In 1955, it was elevated to the status of a cathedral by a decree from the Vatican, becoming the Cathedral of the Diocese of Penang. The sanctuary was subsequently renovated to accommodate the seat of the first Bishop of Penang, the Right Reverend Monsignor Francis Chan.
In 2003, the cathedral status was transferred from the Church of the Assumption to the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit.
On 1 September 2016, the Church of the Assumption closed its doors for a 14-month restoration project, costing RM2.5 million. The extensive work was completed in time for the re-dedication of the restored church on 1 January 2018.
A union of love
My parents were married at the Church of the Assumption on the morning of 27 December 1952. It was within these sacred walls that they pledged their love with the timeless vows: “... to have and to hold from this day forward, for better, for worse, for richer, for poorer, in sickness and in health, until death do us part ...” The ceremony was solemnised by French priest Father Georges Auguin. It must have been a lovely mass as the choir belted out heavenly hymns accompanied by the towering grand pipe organ. Sweet, demure-looking Mum was only 18 then while dashing young Dad was 26.
Left photo: Wedding witnesses Lim Soon Huat and Doris Wong with the bridal couple.
The wedding celebrations continued with a lunch reception at the grand Shanghai Hotel on Gurney Drive, followed by a grand dinner at a restaurant in New World Park. Dad was a young thriving businessman then and according to Mum, the venue was filled to the brim with many of his business associates and their families, feasting and having a ball.
The Church of the Assumption has always been a special place for my parents, perhaps because it was here that they embarked on the adventurous journey of life together. Today, Mum looks back at 54 precious years they had, nurturing and loving eight children, 20 grandchildren and nine great-grandchildren. This year marks what would have been their 72nd wedding anniversary. Though she misses Dad dearly, Mum chooses to treasure the blessings of their time together.
The church today
Situated at the corner of Farquhar and Love Lane, this stately, grey building has a pair of life-size white marble angels, each holding holy water in a shell. These serene figures greet visitors at the church’s entrance.
These two rows of chairs at the entrance of the Church must have an intriguing tale to tell. At the end of each armrest is the miniature head of a bald man.
The interior is enhanced by beautiful stained glass panels, life-size statues of saints and the Blessed Virgin Mary, stations of the cross wall hangings and an authentic pipe organ. The church continues to serve the Catholic community in Penang, with masses held on Saturdays and Sundays.
Directly in front of the church, beyond the porch, stands a dome-shaped grotto. Flank on the left and right of the statue of Our Lady are two pieces of stained glass panels designed by me. They were donated by Jennifer Khaw.
The church grounds also house the Roman Catholic Penang Diocesan Museum, which presents the history of the Church’s missionary activities through a collection of fascinating artifacts and memorabilia. There is an art gallery showcasing paintings of Father Joseph Reutens as well.
The one-of-its-kind pipe organ
Located on the first floor of the church is a grand pipe organ, installed in 1916. Commissioned by Father Louise Duvelle, the parish priest at the time, this pipe organ is arguably one of the oldest surviving instruments of its kind still in working condition.
Although the organ was built in 1914 by the firm of Morton & Moody of Oakham in England, it did not arrive in Penang until two years later. This delay was due to the constraints of shipping the organ during the First World War.
Let us take a closer look at the pipe organ. Constructed from oak, pine and mahogany, it features 640 pipes made of lead and zinc. The organ produces sound by forcing pressurised air (referred to as wind) through a series of pipes. When a key is depressed on the keyboard, wind passes through one or more pipes from a chest beneath them. Unlike other keyboard instruments such as the piano, whose sound begins to decay immediately after the key is struck, the organ can sustain sound for as long as the key is depressed, thanks to its continuous supply of wind.
Ongoing maintenance and restoration have been carried out over the years to ensure that this magnificent instrument continues to faithfully serve the congregation. A skilled organist can perform both sacred and secular music; when accompanied by the voices of a good choir, uplifting melodies fill the church, particularly during Christmas vigils and celebratory Masses.
What is the feast of the Assumption?
According to Roman Catholic doctrine and tradition, the Blessed Virgin Mary, "... having completed the course of her earthly life, was assumed body and soul into heavenly glory". The feast day commemorating Mary's passage into Heaven is celebrated as The Solemnity of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary by Roman Catholics.
This doctrine was dogmatically and infallibly defined by Pope Pius XII on 1 November 1950 in his Apostolic Constitution Munificentissimus Deus. In those denominations that observe it, the Assumption is celebrated on 15 August.
Here are masterpieces painted by two highly influential artists of their times on the Assumption of Mary.
Left: Frari Assumption (The Assumption of the Virgin), Titian, 1515–1518; this painting is on the high altar of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice.
Right: The Assumption of Mary, Rubens, 1626; this altarpiece is in the Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp, Belgium.
------------------------------------
Church of the Assumption (Penang)
3 Lebuh Farquhar, 10200 Penang
Tel: +604 261 0088
------------------------------------
Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All Rights Reserved
22 November 2021 (updated 13 December 2024)