The exotic, aesthetic fading tattoo of henna

henna © Adrian Cheah

Staining the skin temporarily with henna can result in a beautiful work of art. In Penang, this practice is common among the Indian, Sikh and Malay communities. To them, it is a beautiful intangible cultural heritage evoking precious memories shared during festive seasons and wedding occasions. Having said that, tourists in Penang often join in the festivities and adorn their hands with henna designs as well. Since henna artists are available all year round at Little India, one can have it done for casual events anytime.

henna © Adrian Cheah

If you are applying the design yourself, the henna cones containing the dye paste are easily obtained from many shops at Little India. You could also prepare your own paste by mixing henna powder (always sift well to remove small fibres) with an acidic liquid such as lemon juice. Dilute this with a little water (for example rose water) and allow it to rest overnight. Some would add a little essential oil to the paste before application. Look on the internet for videos on the preparation of henna paste by professionals in the field.

henna © Adrian Cheah

Although the colour can vary, the stain should be a vibrant brownish-orange or deep green to a dark brown (never black!). Avoid purchasing pastes that have been chemically enhanced as they can cause adverse skin reactions for some.

henna © Adrian Cheah

The fluid paste, filled into a slender, cone-shaped funnel, is then used to apply various intricate patterns and symbolic motifs on the desired parts of the body, typically on the hands and feet. The pigments from the henna leaves – called lawsone – when combined with proteins under the skin result in the staining. The applied henna area is usually allowed to set for a couple of hours. Avoid getting the "tattooed" area wet for the first day after application. This decorative design would fade in a few days or weeks, depending on how frequently the area is being washed. Also do not get detergents or bleach on it if you want to prolong its lifespan.

Illustration of lawsonia inermis in Species Plantarum by Carl Linnaeus.

Let us take a closer look at the slender henna plant, locally known as inai (in Malay) or mehndi (in Sanskrit for myrtle). Its scientific name, lawsonia inermis however, was only recorded in 1753 although the plant was common in ancient Egypt and India, many thousands of years earlier. The exact origin of the henna plant has left historians with many possibilities. Regardless of its origin, it remains part of ancient practices, steeped in tradition stretching across the globe.

henna plant © Adrian Cheah

The henna plant grows well in the tropical climates of Africa, northern Australia and South Asia. Either a large bush or a small tree, depending on the climate and soil, its fresh green leaves pounded will render a bright orangey-red hue. To achieve a deeper shade, the henna leaves are dried, crushed and ground into a fine powder. Its quality plays a major factor in the staining process.

The large clusters of small white, yellow or rose coloured flowers of the henna plant are extremely fragrant and their extract has been used in perfumes for centuries. Henna berries are used in medicinal mixtures.

inai © Adrian Cheah

In Malaysia, it is customary for Malay brides to cover at least all their nails with inai during Malam Berinai, usually held three days before the wedding. Some grooms might join them, covering only a finger or two. It is believed that this would shield the bridal couple from ill happenings.

henna © Adrian Cheah

henna © Adrian Cheah

Every line, curve and design of the henna artist is intentional. Patterns in nature, Rajasthani art and classical Indian motifs take precedence. To make selection easier, the artists at Little India would usually have a catalogue of designs available for consideration. Of course, complicated designs would cost slightly more.

henna © Adrian Cheah

Gently squeezing the tip of a henna cone, the designs and patterns are all drawn freehand. Henna designs are often intricate and symbolic with a wide range of flowing patterns emanating from a point such as geometric shapes, mandalas, birds and flowers.

Often both the artist and the sitter are women. An experienced artist would have a firm control of the lines to be drawn – it is fascinating to watch her in her element. The sitter also has an important role to play. She has to sit as still as possible without any sudden movements to ensure a successful outcome.

henna © Adrian Cheah

I believe that henna art is a good practice of patience and grace, both for the artist and the sitter. Although modern interpretations of traditional designs are common today, the artist would respect the sanctity of the tradition and be sensitive regarding the placement of sacred images (i.e., an image of a deity such as Gaṇeśa, never on the feet).

henna © Adrian Cheah

Do not be afraid to ask the artist about the designs available, meanings and origins. You might be intrigued by their symbolic significance as many are secret symbols of love, prosperity and fertility. Henna art usually decorates the palms, the back of hands and feet, although it can be applied on different body parts as well. Combing the internet, I came across images of henna art on pregnant bellies and on clean shaven heads of those undergoing chemotherapy. Among many others, celebrities like Madonna, Beyoncé, Rihanna, Katy Perry and Liv Tyler have joined Bollywood stars in adorning henna tattoos proudly in public.

henna © Adrian Cheah

The non-painful process and temporary nature of henna are appealing to many. The powerful phytochemicals in the henna, like tannins and phenolics, provide great benefits, helping to nourish the skin. Some claim that its antimicrobial properties are highly effective in combating various types of skin problems.

The henna is used as a hair dye as well. Being a natural dye sans toxic chemicals, users opine that henna softens and strengthens their hair besides adding shine to it. Some even go as far as to claim that it is an effective natural remedy for hair loss.

Do you know that the henna is used for dyeing fabrics like wool, silk and leather? With its multitude of uses, the henna shrub has been cultivated widely and will continue to be among the botanical darlings for ages to come.

henna © Adrian Cheah

The next time you visit Little India, stop and have masterpieces "tattooed" onto the palms of your hands. They could even provide benefits for both the mind and the soul, aside from being significant positive symbols touching not only your skin but your heart.

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Written by and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
Updated 29 October 2021