Savoury Or Kuih (steamed yam cake) recipe from Lily Wong

"Yam", as it is often known in Penang, actually refers to taro. While "yam" encompasses various plant species in the Dioscorea genus with edible tubers, Or Kuih specifically uses taro. For local authenticity, I'll stick with "yam". Or Kuih, a steamed yam cake, is a lovely local delicacy topped with aromatic shallot oil, fried dried shrimps, crispy shallots, spring onions and diced chillies. Traditionally served with chilli sauce or "tnee cniau" (sweet sauce) on the side, this dish embodies comfort food. A perfect slice of yam cake should be aromatic and tender, with yam chunks that melt in the mouth.

To craft a delightful plate of yam cake, selecting the right yam is crucial for achieving its desired fluffy texture. Ask your trusted vegetable seller to choose a yam that promises to have the "sang" (fluffiness) factor. Without this quality, the yam cake may fall flat, regardless of its toppings. Some recipes recommend steaming the yam first, then smoothly mashing it before adding it to the mixture before cooking.

Yam cake recipe from Lily Wong 

Ingredients:

• 250 g yam, cubed
• 250 g rice flour
• 50 g tapioca flour
• 500 ml water
  
  
• 3 tbsp cooking oil
• 4 cloves of garlic, minced
• 10 pieces of dried shiitake mushrooms, re-hydrated and diced
• 50 g dried prawns, soaked to soften the texture
• 1 tsp five-spice powder
• Salt and white pepper to taste

Garnishing:

• 100 g dried shrimps, re-hydrated, diced finely and sautéed with some oil till fragrant
• 2 red chillies, diced
• Spring onions, cut finely
• Fried shallots, cut finely
• Shallot oil

Method:

1. Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms. Once softened, cut them into small cubes, reserving the soaking water. Pan-fry the mushrooms with a bit of oil and minced garlic until fragrant.
2. Add the dried prawns and fry for about 5 minutes until fragrant.
3. Add the yam cubes and fry on low heat for about 5-10 minutes. Gradually add the reserved soaking water from the mushrooms and dried prawns. Season with five-spice powder, salt, and pepper to taste. Set aside.
4. In a mixing bowl, combine both types of flour with salt and white pepper. Add 500 ml of water, mixing carefully to ensure there are no lumps.
5. Pour the batter into a wok, stirring constantly over medium heat. Once the batter begins to thicken, turn off the heat.
6. Add the prepared mushrooms, dried prawns, and yam cubes to the batter. Mix well.
7. Pour the mixture into a slightly greased tray, ensuring it is packed tightly.
8. Steam at high heat for 30–35 minutes.
9. Allow the yam cake to cool before cutting or removing it from the tray.
10. Garnish with diced red chillies, dried shallots, spring onions, and sautéed dried shrimps. Enjoy your delicious homemade Or Kuih!

Give the recipe above a try, promising both ease and satisfaction. Consider enhancing the dish with minced char siew (Chinese barbecue pork) or your favourite ingredients that could elevate this dish. Adding lard instead of oil for sautéing could be a game-changer. Embrace creativity; the results might pleasantly surprise you.

Nostalgic reminiscences

In my formative years, my mother's kitchen bore witness to the creation of a delectable yam cake packed with ingredients including succulent minced char siew, a dish that wove together comforting flavours with each mouthful.

On Sunday mornings, my aunty, Auntie Jo, once ran a food stall at the bustling Happy Garden market in Kuala Lumpur. The previous evening, she would steam fresh batches of yam cake, ensuring they were primed for the morning rush. Throngs of patrons eagerly queued, drawn not only by her renowned yam cake but also by an array of culinary delights: radish cake, "no mai fun" (steamed glutinous rice), fried noodles and bee hoon, "tai lok mee" (savoury black lardy Hokkien mee), along with "tong sui" (a sweet soup dessert) and "teik cia" (a red sugarcane with water chestnut drink).

Auntie Jo's delectable offerings drew early crowds, with business commencing around 7:00 am and often culminating in sold-out items by 9:00 am. After more than 13 years of dedicated service, she made the poignant decision to retire in 2003 as age caught up with her. Reflecting on those days evokes memories of her unparalleled dedication – imagine the laborious task of frying 24 packets of bee hoon, 12 packets each time in a colossal wok, or the arduous effort of stirring thickening yam cake paste. For me, these tasks were formidable, yet Auntie Jo executed them effortlessly, showcasing unparalleled skill and technique.

Weekends spent at Auntie Jo's during my college years in Kuala Lumpur were filled with cherished memories. I did what little I could to help out with the preparation for the food stall, and it was always amazing to see Auntie Jo in her element. Those six years in Kuala Lumpur were also marked by glorious feasts. Auntie Jo ensured I ate well and often cooked my favourite dishes when I visited her home. To Auntie Jo, Uncle Louis, and my cousins Michelle and Lawrence, I owe immeasurable gratitude for those formative years in Kuala Lumpur.

Memories of irresistible yam cake in Penang

Madam Tan Sooi Kooi's stall at Lam Heng coffee shop on Macalister Road once stood out for its umami-rich and buttery smooth yam cake. I fondly recall the generous topping of fried dried shrimps and crispy fried shallots – a hallmark of Penang's culinary nostalgia. Madam Tan has since happily retired, leaving behind cherished memories of those good old days. The coffeeshop also used to housed the famous Sisters' char koay teow.

In sharing this recipe and reflecting on these memories, I hope to capture the essence of Penang's rich culinary heritage. Whether you are trying your hand at crafting your own yam cake or reminiscing about cherished moments with loved ones, let the flavours and stories enrich your own culinary journey.

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Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
Recipe from Lily Wong
© All rights reserved
3 March 2020

Lily Wong, an accomplished cook, delights in sharing her culinary expertise with enthusiasts. She conducts cooking classes where she unveils the secrets behind traditional Nyonya dishes, kuih-kuih and more. This particular yam cake recipe was shared by Lily during a cooking class organised by Penang Heritage Trust on 23 February 2020.