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All about Penang & more

Penang today is very much an amalgam of the old and the new – a bustling port, a heritage city and an industrial base. Perhaps it has more to offer per square mile than any other place in the world. For sheer variety of locales, cultures and foods, Penang is hard to beat. Here are stories about Penang and more.

The intriguing tale of deliverance behind the Hokkien New Year

Hokkien New Year © Adrian Cheah

The ninth day of the first lunar month holds deep significance for the Hokkien people, a subgroup of the Chinese community. Some traditionalists even regard it as more important than the first day of Chinese New Year, as it marks the day their ancestors were spared from massacre. According to legend, the Jade Emperor, also known as the God of Heaven, provided them with divine protection. As a result, Hokkien communities – especially in Penang – observe this occasion with even greater reverence and festivity.

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Sri Mariamman, the temple of an ancient goddess

Sri Mariamman © Adrian Cheah

Penang has a large community of Indians, broadly divided into those from the North (Bengalis, Sindhis, Gujerati, etc.) and the South (Tamils). It is not surprising then that the Penang landscape is dotted with Hindu temples, from the large and ornate to the unostentatious makeshift huts and lean-to's.

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Chap Goh Meh – The Night of Romance

Chap Goh Meh © Adrian Cheah

A fascinating Chap Goh Meh story tells the tale of a lonely young bachelor, who during an outing on this moonlit night, was suddenly enchanted when he caught a glimpse of the most beautiful girl he had ever seen. Intrigued by this exquisitely delicate beauty in all her finery, he wondered about her identity. With excitement pounding in his heart, the hopeful young man swiftly jotted down her car's number. The following morning, driven by enthusiasm, he sought her address and eagerly asked his mother to send a matchmaker to the home of the girl he envisioned marrying.

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Kek Lok Si Temple, the monastery on Crane Hill

Kek Lok Si © Adrian Cheah

In Chinese iconography, the Crane holds special significance. It is an auspicious symbol denoting longevity, and wisdom that comes with age. The Crane is said to manifest a peculiar interest in human affairs and is also often associated with good luck, high-mindedness, purity and freedom.

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Reinventing kuih kapit (love letters)

kuih kapit © Adrian Cheah

"Perhaps imagination is only intelligence having fun" – George Scialabba

The "love letter", more commonly known as kuih kapit (a paper-thin crispy, fan-shaped biscuit), is an essential feature during Chinese New Year. However, when a classic item like kuih kapit becomes deeply entrenched in tradition, introducing a daring innovation to reinvent it can evoke mixed reactions – either embraced with enthusiasm for its novelty or met with scepticism and disapproval.

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Ti Kuih to sweeten the words of the Gods

Ti Kuih © Adrian Cheah

Ti Kuih, the sweet sticky rice cake, is known in Mandarin as "nian gao", which literally translates to "year cake". Its name also carries an auspicious homophone, symbolising "rising abundance" or "prosperity for the coming year".

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The colourful bubur cha cha and pengat – almost similar yet different

bubur cha cha and pengat © Adrian Cheah

In Malay, “bubur” means “porridge”. As "cha cha" is a homophonic with the Hokkien "che che" (meaning "abundance"), it is a dish synonymous with unity and happiness in abundance. Although there are various theories, there is no one definitive consensus on its origin or what the name of the dish actually means.

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On The Crest Of Prayer – The Thaipusam Story

Thaipusam © Adrian Cheah

From the top of the green hill, the endless string of devotees dotting its way up the concrete steps seemed like a sacred procession of silence.

Carrying milk-pots of brass and silver, and harnessed in colourful kavadis, the worshippers inched their way to the great temple overhead with sweet hypnotic resolve. The children, the elders, even the disabled ones, scaled slowly with their ceremonial burdens, ascending with a mission to the call of the good Lord Muruga above.

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Bernard Lim – a friend, a brother, a blessing

Bernard Lim © Adrian Cheah

Bernard Lim Peng Aunn (right) holding up the custom photo book I designed for him in 2017.

On 26 January 2025, Bernard called me while I was busy making thau chang kuih (ribbon biscuits) for Chinese New Year. He was at the stunningly lit Kek Lok Si Temple that evening with a few sisters from the Little Sisters of the Poor, hoping to enter the pagoda – but it was closed to the public. Of course, I could not help him with that, but what mattered was hearing his familiar, jovial voice. He sounded full of life, his laughter warm and genuine, as always. Little did I know, that would be our last conversation.

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The legend of the ferocious beast called Nian

Nian © Adrian Cheah

In Mandarin, the word "Nian" translates to "year". Yet, according to legend, Nian was far more than a mere symbol of time's passage. It was a fearsome, mythical creature that struck terror into the hearts of people during the New Year, so menacing that it threatened the very existence of humanity. Nian is said to have roamed the land in ancient China, during a time known as shànggǔ (roughly translated as "a very long time ago").

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Ang pow, a red packet of prosperity and blessings

Ang pow © Adrian Cheah

More than just a monetary gift, the ang pow (or ang bao) is a cultural symbol wrapped in a red envelope, a gesture of goodwill and blessings. Traditionally given during Chinese New Year, birthdays, weddings and other festive occasions, the red packet carries deep meaning and continues to hold significance today.

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George Town World Heritage Site: The story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang

By Mark Thompson and Karl Steinberg with photographs by Adrian Cheah

George Town World Heritage Site: The story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang

Walk between two of George Town’s most famous landmarks with this illustrated guide. Discover the story of the Chinese in nineteenth-century Penang and explore some of the community’s fascinating characters, customs, architecture and events.

For as long as it has existed, George Town in Penang has attracted travellers and settlers from across the globe and is a true confluence of cultures. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site continues to enchant visitors with its traditional charm and its well-preserved historical townscape.

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