Penang today is very much an amalgam of the old and the new – a bustling port, a heritage city and an industrial base. Perhaps it has more to offer per square mile than any other place in the world. For sheer variety of locales, cultures and foods, Penang is hard to beat. Here are stories about Penang and more.
In the heart of Pulau Tikus, where the rhythms of Penang’s past still echo through its streets, there is a place where nostalgia simmers gently over a pot of moi (plain white rice porridge). The Teochew Club, the brainchild of Chef Su Kim Hock, is more than just a late-night eatery – it is a love letter to tradition, a quiet homage to the generations of Teochew immigrants who arrived on the shores of Penang in search of a better life.
Once again, Ramadhan, the holiest of months for Muslims, is almost upon us. The ninth month of the Muslim year is strictly observed by all Muslims as a month of fasting (and abstinence) during which they would abstain from the pleasures of eating, drinking and carnal desires and actions from sunrise to sunset. Ramadhan usually lasts from 29 to 30 days, after which Muslims celebrate Id-al-Fitr (Hari Raya Puasa in the local language). Fasting is one of the five basic duties of Islam.
The Kapitan Keling Mosque along Jalan Kapitan Keling (once Pitt Street) is a monumental structure crowned by copper domes. This is the largest historic mosque in George Town, founded around 1800.
The name of the mosque was taken from the Kapitan Kelings, people who were appointed leaders of the South Indian community by the British.
A forgotten relic whose serenity belies a wartime crisis of the past
The sleepy hinterland of Bumbong Lima in Seberang Perai is better known for its iconic Merdeka Bridge which spans across the great Sungai Muda river, bisecting the state of Penang on this side from neighbouring Kedah in the north.
Born into a Chinese Peranakan family, I often find my culinary cravings leaning towards other cuisines – whether it is Chinese, Thai, Italian, Japanese, Vietnamese, Continental, Mexican, Indian or Malay – when dining out, unless I am hosting guests from abroad who crave for Nyonya cuisine. Sometimes when time allows, I will gladly roll up my sleeves and prepare a Nyonya feast to ensure that they depart Penang with a lasting impression of the vibrant and unique flavours that define Nyonya cuisine.
Recently, I dined at several popular restaurants in Penang, only to leave rather disappointed. Despite their Instagram-worthy interiors and bustling dining halls, the food often fell short – mediocre offerings served at steep prices. Even with my trusty mirrorless Nikon in hand, I found no inspiration to photograph the experiences; they simply were not worth capturing.
The warm midday sun filtered through the colonial windows of Beach St. Bistrot, casting shifting patterns of light across its charming interior. Outside, the afternoon blazed with tropical intensity, making it all the more refreshing to step into the cool embrace of the air-conditioned restaurant. Though my birthday had passed weeks ago, the celebrations continued – this time over a leisurely luncheon with my dear old friend, Auck Seng.
Kuih Bahulu (also known as Kuih Baulu or Kuih Bolu) is a perennial favourite among Malaysians of all ages. In Hokkien, it is called Kay Nui Koh. It is a mini light and fluffy sponge cake made from eggs, flour and sugar. It has a slightly crusty outer layer with a soft and fluffy inside, quite similar in taste and texture to a French Madeleine. However, when compared to many western cakes, Kuih Bahulu is much lighter in texture and has a subtle sweetness.
The history of the Acheen Street mosque (also known as the Malay mosque), began in 1792, which marked the arrival of its founder Tengku Syed Hussain Al-Aidid who had come from Acheh to settle in Penang. A member of the royal family of Acheh, Sumatra and descendant of a sovereign Arab family, Hussain became a hugely successful entrepreneur and one of the wealthiest merchants and landowners in Penang.
Bernard Lim Peng Aunn (right) holding up the custom photo book I designed for him in 2017.
On 26 January 2025, Bernard called me while I was busy making thau chang kuih (ribbon biscuits) for Chinese New Year. He was at the stunningly lit Kek Lok Si Temple that evening with a few sisters from the Little Sisters of the Poor, hoping to enter the pagoda – but it was closed to the public. Of course, I could not help him with that, but what mattered was hearing his familiar, jovial voice. He sounded full of life, his laughter warm and genuine, as always. Little did I know, that would be our last conversation.
Chin's Cuisine represents owner Dave Chin's unique interpretation on Chinese cuisine, primarily inspired by Sichuan and Hunan flavours. Dave and his team of chefs draw inspiration from the vast treasure trove of Chinese cuisine, a culinary tradition that has evolved over thousands of years.
Quallys Syok Segarnya is more than just a restaurant – it is a love letter to Malaysia’s culinary heritage. It embraces the simplicity of fresh ingredients and deep-rooted cooking tradition while adapting to the evolving tastes of today’s diners. Here, the essence of "masakan kampung" (traditional Malay village cooking) shines through, bringing rich, "sedaplicious" flavours to every dish. Malay cuisine, with its harmonious blend of spices, herbs and regional influences, revolves around rice – served with curries, sambal, seafood and meats. It is often enjoyed by hand for an authentic, finger-licking-good experience. At the heart of Quallys is Yusniza Ayu Yusoff, fondly known as Kak Ayu, whose warm, heartfelt approach captures the true spirit of cooking with love.