Bak Chang Festival in Penang: an intriguing tapestry of flavours, traditions and cultural 

Bak Chang © Adrian Cheah

Bak Chang, a culinary delight available in Penang year-round, is a delectable combination of steamed pulut (glutinous rice) seasoned with dark soya sauce, wrapped in bamboo leaves and generously filled with a medley of ingredients such as tender pork belly, shiitake mushroom, dried prawns, salted egg yolk and chestnuts or with just white beans. This sumptuous and hearty treat holds special significance during the Bak Chang Festival, showcasing its rich flavours and cultural traditions.

Bak Chang © Adrian Cheah

Bak Chang © Adrian Cheah

In Penang, the Nyonyas have crafted their own version of Chang called Pua Kiam Tee. While it shares the foundation of glutinous rice, the filling distinguishes it from the traditional Bak Chang. Sans any dark soy sauce, the variation remains pristine white, synonymous with the Pua Kiam Tee Chang in Penang. Nowadays, some Chang makers colour the glutinous rice with blue from the Bunga Telang (butterfly-pea flower) to create a blue and white variation. This delightful twist is an influence from Malacca.

Bak Chang Festival © Adrian Cheah

Bak Chang Festival © Adrian Cheah

I must admit that I am an ardent fan of these delectable Nyonya-style dumplings, which boast a harmonious blend of sweet and savoury components. The inclusion of candied winter melon, aniseed and coriander lends a robust and unmistakable flavour to these irresistibly addictive dumplings. Moreover, the sweet aroma from the pandan (screw pine) leaves truly makes a remarkable impact, elevating the overall culinary experience.

In the weeks leading up to the festival, the Chinese community in Penang engages in the tradition of crafting and savouring these bamboo leaves-wrapped dumplings. The art of making these dumplings requires a combination of skill, dedication and time. Even the cooking process, following the meticulous preparation and wrapping, entails boiling the bundled dumplings for a minimum of two hours. It is a labour-intensive endeavour that showcases the commitment and care invested in creating these culinary delights.

Bak Chang © Adrian Cheah

Bak Chang Festival © Adrian Cheah

That being said, some families who gather annually to prepare Bak Chang for the festival enjoy the entire process very much. I still have vivid memories from when we were young, as my mother would make Bak Chang, my siblings and I would eagerly join in the excitement of packing our Chang with our favourite ingredients. Once cooked, the dumplings are lifted from the boiling pot, hung to drain excess water and left to cool. Usually when unwrapping our Changs, they would not hold well because we had left very little room for the pulut that was needed to bind the dumpling together.

After cooking, the dumplings can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week, while freezing extends their shelf life to a few months.

Bak Chang Festival © Adrian Cheah

The tale behind the Bak Chang Festival

On the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the Chinese community worldwide, including Penang, commemorates the Duanwu Festival, commonly known as the Dragon Boat Festival. This festive occasion entails engaging in dragon boat races and feasting on delicious Changs. Similar to numerous traditional Chinese delicacies prepared during festive periods, the Bak Chang Festival is rooted in a captivating folklore.

Bak Chang Festival © Adrian Cheah

The tale is based on historical records recounting the life of Qu Yuan (340-278 BC), a distinguished poet from ancient China's Zhou Dynasty. As a descendant of the Chu royal house, Qu Yuan faced banishment due to his opposition to the king's decision to form an alliance with the neighboring Qin state, which was expanding its influence. During his exile, Qu Yuan composed some of the most remarkable poetry in Chinese literature. Tragically, when the capital of Chu fell to the power of Qin, Qu Yuan's sorrow and despair led him to enact a ritual suicide by drowning himself in the Miluo River. It is said that he clutched a weighty rock, tied to himself, as he submerged in the river's depths. (The Miluo River is situated in northeastern Hunan Province in present-day China.)

Witnessing the distressing event, the villagers who were present swiftly sprang into action to rescue Qu Yuan. They raced across the river on boats, beating drums and splashing the water with their paddles to scare away the fish. Rice dumplings were cast into the river, intended to divert the attention of the fish from Qu Yuan, hoping they would consume the dumplings instead.

Regrettably, their valiant efforts proved futile, as Qu Yuan could not be saved. However, an extraordinary occurrence took place later that night, when the spirit of Qu Yuan is believed to have materialised before his friends. He imparted a solemn message, urging them to release rice dumplings into the river to ward off a river dragon.

In response to Qu Yuan's plea, his loyal companions crafted rice dumplings encased in silk and cast them into the river.

This tragic tale continues to be honoured every year on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month through the observance of the Bak Chang Festival. Presently, in Penang, the tradition has evolved and Bak Chang are no longer cast into the river for the fish to devour. Instead, they are cherished as gifts exchanged among family and friends.

Bak Chang Festival © Adrian Cheah

Bak Chang is readily available throughout Penang, especially in the days preceding the festival and can be found at morning markets. However, it has gained popularity as a year-round snack, ideal for breakfast or tea. One of my preferred Bak Chang stalls in Penang is located by the curb in front of the Seventh Day Adventist Church, situated at the intersection of Burmah Road and Tavoy Road. This particular vendor offers a diverse assortment of Bak Chang as well as Oh Kuih (yam cake) and Ang Tau Th'ng (red bean dessert).

The poignant endeavour of searching for Qu Yuan's body while racing down the river gave birth to the Dragon Boat Festival, an esteemed tradition observed with profound reverence in numerous regions of China, honouring its ancient roots. Just as the heroic legacy of the legendary Qu Yuan endures, so too does his spirit resonate in Penang, echoing through the resounding beats of drums and the exuberant cheers of the crowds, celebrating the sheer display of human strength and skill.

Both these festivals with the same source of origin continue to be celebrated until today many miles away from China on this little island with much gaiety and joy.

---------------------------------------------------------

Here is a paragraph from LI SAO (The Lament), one of the most remarkable works of Qü Yüan. It ranks as one of the greatest poems in Chinese or world poetry. It was probably written during the period when the poet had been exiled by his king.

In sadness plunged and sunk in deepest gloom,
Alone I drove on to my dreary doom.
In exile rather would I meet my end,
Then to the baseness of their ways descend.

Remote the eagle spurns the common range,
Nor designs since time began its way to change;
A circle fits not with a square design;
Their different ways could not be merged with mine.

Yet still my heart I checked and curbed my pride,
Their blame endured and their reproach beside.
To die for righteousness alone I sought,
For this was what the ancient sages taught.

---------------------------------------------------------
Written and photographed by Adrian Cheah
© All rights reserved
Updated: 20 June 2023